Did I inherit a disaster?

treyragno

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2017
62
Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Pool Size
13865
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Recently purchased house with pool.
Uses chlorine tablets via inline dispenser.
tested at Leslie’s… yes I know I failed TFP!
Phosphates was through the roof. >4000ppb
CyA: 150ppm
pH: 6.6
FAC: 2.8
TAC: 3.1
Was suggested to drain some water
I drained more than 1/3 and achieved and stopped using tablets.
Used phosphate remover- stopped using.
Used sodium hypochlorite (12.5%) instead of tablets.

Phosphates: 1,500
pH: 7.8 (Rainbow 78 test)
Chlorine: >3.0 (Rainbow 78 test))
Alkalinity: 140

Rainbow 78 test suggests I need 1.5pint of muriatic acid based on acids demand test and high alkalinity.

I’d like to convert to the TFP method but want to use up balance of hypochlorite I bought.

Is it safe to use muriatic acid if I have a dark blue (not quite blalck) plaster pool?
I don’t want to bleach this thing.

I also worry the calcium was out of whack as I kept finding plaster material in bottom of cartridge filter.

Is this recoverable and ok to get the muriatic acid going in it?

Is rainbow 78 test kit ok to use for time-being?
 
Hey!!! Welcome to TFP! We can help.

I would recommend you get one of these test kits -->Test Kits Compared

Why? We only give advice based on these kits.
Really? Why? We have found pool store and other test kits like the rainbow, colorQ, ...long list, do not give accurate and consistent results.
So what, maybe it will be close enough...Well, maybe, and maybe not. We could actually give you advice, based on inaccurate testing, that will make your situation worse, or tell you to do something you don't actually need to do.

The pH test in that kit is OK. If your pH starts with a 7, I would do nothing. 7.8 is just fine, or anything that starts with a 7 is OK for now.

What I would do NOW:
1) order a test kit from the test kits compared link. Include the "speed stir," that is a game changer in making your testing accurate.
2) Do NOT add ANYTHING to your pool, except your 12.5% liquid chlorine. Add 1/2 gallon DAILY until your test kit gets here.
3) Run a full set of tests when you get your kit. We'll help you get going.

If you want inspiration -->How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
You mentioned concerns about calcium but you haven’t mentioned a ch level. We would be guessing just like u .
The tf100/pro or Taylor k2006 have all tests u need to do in them.
Do as @PoolStored recommended & report back when your kit comes in & u have run all the tests.
In the meantime- Do not feed the inline chlorinator.
We’ll help u get it trouble free 😊
P.s. the cal hypo will keep indefinitely if stored in a dry place. Until u know if your ch can handle using it stick with liquid chlorine.
 
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Do you know how old the pool is? Does the equipment work? Post some pics. We like pics :)
Pool is 4 years old.
Pump was not working but a new capacitor did the trick.
Everything works as far as I can tell.
The Hayward LED light stopped working the other night and I suspect a loose connection at the switch or transformer. I will look into once I get the Sundance hot tub going- it has its own set of issues but just about have it back together and clean.

I will snap some photos in the morning. :)
 
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Trey,

Why would you not have drained and refilled the whole pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.
I think my first reply disappeared.

We didn’t fully drain for a few reasons:

- it seemed wasteful
- was told partial drain would work- turned out I needed more draining than initial required
- we only get 1 pool refill per 3 years from the city to avoid sewer fees on the usage
- need to lab test water and prove no chlorine before allowed to drain to street
- we have no pump to waste so it requires a sump pump which is slow
- refill will be slow as we will have to do it with two garden hoses

Hopefully we made the right decision in the end.
 
upon refill of the hot tub purge that thang with Ahhsome .
Here’s the guide for hot tubs👇
 

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I brushed the pool today and some green algae came off and ran the pump to help pull it out. Unsure if that works.
Pool was a little cloudy for a few hours but clears up while skimmer and pump were running.
I still see some green settled at bottom which we will vacuum out shortly. It appears a couple grass clippings fell to bottom after mowing today. I skimmed pool immediately after mowing as there were considerable grass clippings in the water.

Will put in liquid shock/bleach tonight.
Expecting TF-100 kit tomorrow night.
 

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upon refill of the hot tub purge that thang with Ahhsome .
Here’s the guide for hot tubs👇
Used some aahsome and refilled but getting some foam still. A little more green stuff came out. Think I should add aahsome and drain again?
 
Used some aahsome and refilled but getting some foam still. A little more green stuff came out. Think I should add aahsome and drain again?
I always purge twice- using the same water, just adding 1/2 the amount of Ahhsome as the initial dose. You’re supposed to do it however many times it takes for it to come out clean (no funk in the foam). If the water was cold the 1st time but it’s hot now u may get more release.
 
Hey!!! Welcome to TFP! We can help.

I would recommend you get one of these test kits -->Test Kits Compared

Why? We only give advice based on these kits.
Really? Why? We have found pool store and other test kits like the rainbow, colorQ, ...long list, do not give accurate and consistent results.
So what, maybe it will be close enough...Well, maybe, and maybe not. We could actually give you advice, based on inaccurate testing, that will make your situation worse, or tell you to do something you don't actually need to do.

The pH test in that kit is OK. If your pH starts with a 7, I would do nothing. 7.8 is just fine, or anything that starts with a 7 is OK for now.

What I would do NOW:
1) order a test kit from the test kits compared link. Include the "speed stir," that is a game changer in making your testing accurate.
2) Do NOT add ANYTHING to your pool, except your 12.5% liquid chlorine. Add 1/2 gallon DAILY until your test kit gets here.
3) Run a full set of tests when you get your kit. We'll help you get going.

If you want inspiration -->How Clear is TFP Clear?
Ok, I’m back!

FC: 3.5
CC: 0.25
pH: 8.2
TA: 15
CH: 825
CYA: 155 (hard to tell as it’s below the graduated lines)

I know CYA is high but have drained at least by 1/3 previously, when I had Leslie’s test water a few times and was consistently high. I was expecting a lower number. Very disappointed on this one.

Now where do I go from here?!
 
CYA: 155 (hard to tell as it’s below the graduated lines)

I know CYA is high but have drained at least by 1/3 previously, when I had Leslie’s test water a few times and was consistently high. I was expecting a lower number. Very disappointed on this one.

Now where do I go from here?!
Can you please explain what "hard to tell as it's below the graduated lines" means?

When you test CYA, you need to be in bright sunlight at your back, tube at your waist (in shadow of your body). When you add the solution, add to each line, put at your waist, glance. If dot is obscured, test is done. That is your CYA level.

Please describe how you tested that led you to believe your CYA is 155.
 
Can you please explain what "hard to tell as it's below the graduated lines" means?

When you test CYA, you need to be in bright sunlight at your back, tube at your waist (in shadow of your body). When you add the solution, add to each line, put at your waist, glance. If dot is obscured, test is done. That is your CYA level.

Please describe how you tested that led you to believe your CYA is 155.
The cylinder has markings on it and the highest value marking is 100. My level was below the line where there are no markings so I had to estimate.

I put 7.5ml of pool water in bottle.
I added 7.5ml of solution.
I shook it.
Waited 30 seconds.
Shook again.
Added small amount to cylinder with black dot on bottom.
Held at waist and could see the dot.
Added more.
Held again, and could see dot.
repeated this until unable to see the black dot.
My liquid level was quite low and was below the 100 value on the cylinder.
I estimated it was around 150-160 based on spacing size between 80 and 100 which I extrapolated.
 
So when the CYA presumably is above 90 we recommend the diluted test, fill to 7.5 w/pool water then fill 7.5 w tap water from the sink, mix then pour off till the 7.5 level and then use the CYA reagent for the next 7.5 . The rest is the same except the result gets multiplied X2 and that would be the CYA level.
 
So when the CYA presumably is above 90 we recommend the diluted test, fill to 7.5 w/pool water then fill 7.5 w tap water from the sink, mix then pour off till the 7.5 level and then use the CYA reagent for the next 7.5 . The rest is the same except the result gets multiplied X2 and that would be the CYA level.
I did the diluted test.
I am still getting a reading over 100 when I diluted.

According to the test, I estimate 220 CYA.
See photo

Something is not right. While I may not entirely trust Leslie’s Pool testing they did in July, I always had them run 2 samples back to back and CYA was consistent and it dropped as i removed water. I removed 20-25% of pool but didn’t get a chance to measure but prior water removals made a measurable impact. I’ve been using non-stabilized chlorine since early July so I’m not adding any CYA back in.

If i remove 1/3-1/2 of water, I will have exchanged all of it. Code enforcement has been out lately and removing water from my pool requires a lab test with no chlorine present, a permit from the city, etc. my only other option is to route the submersible pump into my kitchen sink in the house.
 

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