Diary of a Guy Converting to Salt!

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Tested last night for the first time in a week. I haven't gone a week between tests EVER. The sock did boost that CYA, and I think everything else looks great. My pool seems to "like" 7.8 pH. In the past, I would add acid at 7.8 but I think I've decided to let it sit at 7.8......anyone disagree with this?

Results from yesterday:

FC 7.0
CC 0.5
pH 7.8
TA 90
CH 300
CYA 70
Salt 3000
Water Temp 91
CSI 0.09
 
Cody,

Just let it sit at 7.8 and then let it drift up to 8.0 and then knock it back to 7.7.... As long as your TA stays above 50, just leave your TA alone...

I would keep your eye on your CSI to make sure it stays 0 to -.3

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Cody said:
I really only considered Jandy since that's what all my equipment is. I looked at the 1400 and the TruClear....TruClear was WAAAAY less expensive on the quote I got so that was really the determining factor....cost me about $1200, the other one was quoted at about double that amount (which was too high, but that's what the guy was going to charge).
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Terrific, thanks. Having Whale Pools come out to provide a quote, and it looks like the TruClear is going to be the best option (along with upgrading to a VS pump). Unfortunate that Jandy chose not to include a salt level reading with this model...seems like an obvious thing to include. How are you testing salt levels?
 
Exlonghorn said:
Terrific, thanks. Having Whale Pools come out to provide a quote, and it looks like the TruClear is going to be the best option (along with upgrading to a VS pump). Unfortunate that Jandy chose not to include a salt level reading with this model...seems like an obvious thing to include. How are you testing salt levels?
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I ordered a Taylor Salt Test Kit from TFTestKits, so that's what I use. I'm not bothered by the fact that there isn't an integrated salt level reading, because I wouldn't trust it anyway.
 
Tested yesterday for the first time in THREE WEEKS. I won't normally wait this long but I was trying to prove a point to myself...lol.

After that period of time, FC was 7.5, pH was 8.0 (I added acid last night after the test), salt at 3200. Water temp down to 80 degrees after a cold front.

I'm absolutely thrilled to see that FC is stable at a perfect number. Why didn't I convert to SWG years ago????? :)
 
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Very nice to hear. I'm only a few days into adding my own chemicals and I'm already tired of pouring liquid chlorine. I cant wait until they can add the salt and turn on the SWCG.
 
Cody said:
I'm absolutely thrilled to see that FC is stable at a perfect number. Why didn't I convert to SWG years ago????? :)
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If i had a dollar for everytime a friend was standing over my pool telling me why SWG is bad and why it wouldnt work for them.... i could have retired by the 2nd year of pool ownership. I was a rare minority at first. Little by little people are converting or starting there in the first place. At some point it will become the preferred method.
 
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I do have one question....as a new SWG owner, what do I do when the water gets cold?

If I turn off the SWG as the temp of the water gets to 60 degrees or below, is that sufficient? Or do I need to REMOVE the unit for the winter? I feel like I've read it both ways....don't want to damage my new toy, but if I can leave it in but OFF, that would be a lot easier.

Thoughts?
 
If you are not winterizing your pool system, then leave it in. Just add liquid chlorine as necessary to maintain your FC throughout the winter.
 

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Cody said:
Not winterizing...Do I need to make sure the power to the SWG is off?

Will use LC for winter...
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I believe it is best to power it off. I assume you have an individual breaker for it. I would also suggest powering off the Ozone. It will just consume chlorine.
 
Cody said:
Yes, I was shooting for something rated for 40k gallons. This one is rated for 35k gallons, and the quote was less than half to get this one installed versus the 40k Jandy option. I decided I'd run at 70% for $1200 instead of getting one I could run at 50% for $2600. Did I make a huge mistake? He's coming this afternoon, so I guess I could pull the plug if I'm really messing this up.....
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Starting and stopping an electric motor causes more wear and tear than constantly running. They draw the greatest current at startup but it drops pretty quickly. It's easier to keep something moving than it is to get it moving. But it does draw power while it's running so that will drive the electric bill up. The RLA listed on the motor plate is how many amps it draws while running. That times the voltage gives you watts. Watts times hours run tells you how much electricity it's using.
 
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