Possible that drywall is still clogged, but I dont think so. Seems to drain fine last week when tested. Only speculating since I have not opened up to check, but hypothesis is that back-up occurred when I was backwashing multiple times/day clearing out the plaster dust. Drywall is in sand layer with very good drainage generally.Could the pressure be coming from the plugged drywall that started this whole adventure ?
Did you open it and clean out the DE ? I imagine it needs to be done either way because the separation tank will stop it from getting worse, but it was plugged to start and spilling into the yard.
Yes. And just like a cesspool (which it is) you would need it cleaned and aerated or the plaster dust would continue to plug the holes and floor. The plaster dust likely clogged up the sand around/under the well IMO.hypothesis is that back-up occurred when I was backwashing multiple times/day clearing out the plaster dust.
^^^^^ so you should have been able to drain as long as you wanted after plastering, like you did before. Unless the plaster dust clogged the sand.Drywall is in sand layer with very good drainage generally.
It absolutely makes sense to try the parts that aren't under the shed.I suppose I can check the drainage by opening the DE collection tank after cleaning and filling with hose and looking at rate of drainage. Without DE, it should drain freely i into clogged. Make sense?
Opened tank and sock had lots of DE in it.Did you open up the separation tank? Was there DE in it? Was the filter sock full?
The only way I get local control is to disconnect the RS-485 communication cable from the side of the pump. Otherwise I use my iPhone Jandy iAqualink. But this always starts with a full speed prime. I believe I can disconnect the cable and then adjust the pump to prime at a slower speed, and then try reconnecting the automation and seeing if it takes.Are you able to put the IntelliFlo into local control?
Is there a way to access the drywall without moving the shed (a big job that will required digging part of my lawn)? My landscaper who manages my drainage issues didn't think it was necessary, but hard to say without testing. The only think draining there is the waste lien from the DE tank, so I will try the hose into it tomorrow (with no filter or DE collected) and see if it backs up.Yes. And just like a cesspool (which it is) you would need it cleaned and aerated or the plaster dust would continue to plug the holes and floor. The plaster dust likely clogged up the sand around/under the well IMO.
Sounds like a complete clog with almost zero flow.And pressure in collection tank gets to 40-45 and seems to stabilize, which makes me think it is draining at that level.
Probably detecting zero flow.Trouble occurred when the pump slowed and the 40-45 psi was too strong for the pump to clear at slow speed so pump stopped with error message (and some of the fluid from collection tank flowed back to pump).
There's no pressure pushing water through a coffee filter.If the former, its like the pressure pushing hot water through a coffee filter filled with coffee.
It depends if the pool drains to the septic tank or the cesspool (leaching pond)Might the waste from the DE have been flowing to and now clogging the septic
That's too high.I should mention the the pressure in my DE filter gets to about 35-40 while pump is priming at high speed.
I am with them for what 'should be'. There is never any telling what was done by folks who didn't know better, or care.Septic company called me back after looking at the survey. They are certain that its such a code violation to pump pool waste into septic system that its almost impossible to be the case
Agreed. So start with the easily accessible stuff. Can you cut and/or redirect the pipe between the new tank and the drywell temporarily? That way you could run the new system/pump and see if the problem remains (new system problem) or if the problem goes away (dry well problem worth moving the shed for)Logic says that I must have backed up something with the DE and plaster dust so I really need to dig it out. But I am still not sold that the pressure buildup is 100% waste line related
The folks who did the replaster certainly did not install the pool drywell. I am in touch with them and they swear they just used the existing waste pipe - and that makes sense since shed was already built there. No one ever had a problem with it (that they mentioned) until this year when I was dealign with new plaster situation. I think either survey missed the pool dry well, or it was put in after surveyor came but before they completed job. I know I paid for the dry well because I remember arguing with the builder about the number of dry wells I paid for as "extras" vs what was in contract. My contract itself called for a "small" pool drywell. I am trying to look back at my notes from 2000-2001 to see if I ever paid for that drywell or received a credit for it (I have a suspicion that the dry well was never install and they used the septic). No one will admit to it today 22 years after the fact, but I will figure it out. When septic company comes Monday I will have them look.But my gut thought was that the survey was done for the pool and the pool dry well (seperate) was added later. Possibly at the first replaster to bring the whole thing up to code if the drywall code as added after the pool was built.
I can run a new pipe from the drain line in the tank. But how thick a pipe should I use? Easiest would be a garden hose but I suspect its not wide enough. The water coming out of the tank should be very clean. What would you think of me using a thick pool hose to run into pool itself as a test case?So start with the easily accessible stuff. Can you cut and/or redirect the pipe between the new tank and the drywell temporarily?