Day 3 PEA SOUP

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Grey2175

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Jan 30, 2017
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Lindstrom/MN
Hi, Been a while since I asked a question and Im having some concern.

Opened 3 days ago to brown extremely murky water. Began SLAM process (forgot to check pH). Vacuumed and brushed every day, change filters every 24-36 hrs. Water improved from brown to green pea soup in about 36 hrs but has not continued to improve. Its staying murky green.

Chlorine loss was 2ppm overnight Wed-Thurs morning.

Current numbers:
Chlorine-21
TA- 100
Cya- 35-40
Cal H- 125
pH- 7.3 (not sure if this is accurate since Chl level is high?)

40,000 gallon
vinyl
Hayward variable speed pump
Cartridge filters (4)

Thanks, Sean
 
Last edited:
Looks like you are following the process. Stay at it. Only test FC until the pool is crystal clear.

Do you have iron in your fill water? Can you post a picture of the water?

We suggest taking a picture of the water (say down at the steps) every day at about the same time as that gives you perspective on improvements.
 
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It's hard to tell with the ripples on the surface, but is the water cloudy green where it's hard to see the bottom, or clear green meaning easy to see the bottom? That top step looks very clear blue, so if your water is not cloudy it may be metals in the water contributing to the color. Either way, if you are still having large chlorine loss overnight, you should keep SLAMing.
 
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aeh0603 said:
It's hard to tell with the ripples on the surface, but is the water cloudy green where it's hard to see the bottom, or clear green meaning easy to see the bottom? That top step looks very clear blue, so if your water is not cloudy it may be metals in the water contributing to the color. Either way, if you are still having large chlorine loss overnight, you should keep SLAMing.
Click to expand...
mknauss said:
Looks like you are following the process. Stay at it. Only test FC until the pool is crystal clear.

Do you have iron in your fill water? Can you post a picture of the water?

We suggest taking a picture of the water (say down at the steps) every day at about the same time as that gives you perspective on improvements.
Click to expand...
I was fortunate this year to NOT need any fill water. The snow/rain was enough I almost had to take some out.
 
aeh0603 said:
It's hard to tell with the ripples on the surface, but is the water cloudy green where it's hard to see the bottom, or clear green meaning easy to see the bottom? That top step looks very clear blue, so if your water is not cloudy it may be metals in the water contributing to the color. Either way, if you are still having large chlorine loss overnight, you should keep SLAMing.
Click to expand...
I'd say its clear green as I can see the drains pretty easily when standing over the deep end.Its almost like the liner is stained or something. Ever heard of that?
 
If the pool water is clear but green, that typically implies metals. Emerald green can be copper. You do not list a heater. Have you used copper algaecide in the past?
 
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mknauss said:
If the pool water is clear but green, that typically implies metals. Emerald green can be copper. You do not list a heater. Have you used copper algaecide in the past?
Click to expand...
I do have a Hayward heater. I just turned it on for the first time of the season today.

I have not used copper algaecide. If this emerald color doesn’t change in the next few days should I try it?
 
I am concerned you have copper in the water. So no, do not ever add algaecide with copper.
If there is copper in your water, the heater is the likely source. Have you used trichlor pucks extensively? Have you tested your pH often and kept it in the 7’s?
 

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I would suggest taking a pool water sample to a pool store for an iron and copper test. Do not buy any potions they may suggest.
 
If you have copper in your water that can be tested, the best thing to do is drain and refill with fresh water.

But the copper had to come from somewhere. Do you know if your fill water has iron in it?
 
The important thing to find out is where the metal came from. If you have never used a product with copper in it check the heat exchanger on the heater. Low pH can eat the copper right off, loading the water with copper and ruining the heat exchanger. Iron usually turns water an opaque rusty brown when it reacts with chlorine.

If the heat exchanger is fine then you will need to add sequestrant every few weeks, or you will need to do a series of partial drain and refill cycles to get rid of the metal. If you do a drain and refill, only drain about 50 % at a time and do it just after adding sequestrant so that the metal is in suspension and leaves with the water.
 
I used Metal Magic. 5 qts. The rep told me our paper filters would catch the copper and remove it. Gray clumps is what I would see when cleaning the filters. He said I might need to add 6 oz or so in a few weeks. Are his comments correct? If you guys don’t agree I will move ahead with the drain/refill cycles.
 
The cartridge filters will possibly capture a very small amount of the copper, but the bulk is still in the water.

Only way to remove is to replace the water.
 
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