Does the heater need to be bypassed or just kept off during this time?I know the why of the heater! The plaster dust can clog it up! Not a good thing for a brand new heater!
Kim
Dallas New Build 2019
- Thread starter BradK
- Start date
Just off. The only reason to bypass it is if the water will be extremely acidic during the startup
My deck pour got delayed since the inspector didn't make it out yesterday. Got the tag today, so I'll have to see when it can get rescheduled.
In the meantime I've been thinking about the finish on the concrete. Currently it's calling for a light broom finish, but I'm getting a little concerned about the roughness and look. I'm wondering if a troweled finish with a non slip sealer may get me close to the slip resistance of the brushed with a cleaner look. Anybody have any experience with the non slip sealers?
In the meantime I've been thinking about the finish on the concrete. Currently it's calling for a light broom finish, but I'm getting a little concerned about the roughness and look. I'm wondering if a troweled finish with a non slip sealer may get me close to the slip resistance of the brushed with a cleaner look. Anybody have any experience with the non slip sealers?
It's interesting that on the Pebbletec start up info only 2 things are in Bold letters: don't stop filling it once you start, and don't add salt for 28 days. So, you'd think that means it's a big deal. But, the pool guy our PB uses normally adds salt at 10 days...we told him we wanted to wait just to be extra careful. All we need is an issue to arise and then Pebbletec won't warranty it because salt was added early. So many different opinions/methods for all this pool stuff...literally every builder around here does something different regarding start up and when you can swim (from hours after fill to 2 weeks), when they add what chemicals/salt, etc. The only thing consistent is not using heaters for a month. ?
You can read further on the salt here:
www.troublefreepool.com
As for the heater, there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation increases significantly.
The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it.
There was a theory that the heated water could effect the plaster but that was quickly debunked by taking a plaster surface temperature of a new pool while filling and finding it well over 100 degrees and less than 8 hours old just from sun exposure.
On salt, plaster and waiting 30 days....
Perhaps this idea has been answered and explained more clearly in a another thread but, in case it has not, I thought I would make this quick post. I had the opportunity to run across this thread from user onBalance back in 2012 about the reasons for waiting 30 days before adding salt to a...
www.troublefreepool.com
As for the heater, there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation increases significantly.
The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it.
There was a theory that the heated water could effect the plaster but that was quickly debunked by taking a plaster surface temperature of a new pool while filling and finding it well over 100 degrees and less than 8 hours old just from sun exposure.
I decided to go with the troweled concrete instead of brushed. I saw the were a couple coatings/sealers that can add grip if it's too slick or maybe an acid wash.
That brought sealing in general with a salt pool. Is sealing of coping required/recommended in general and with salt? The pool builder is pushing for since I switched to salt.
That brought sealing in general with a salt pool. Is sealing of coping required/recommended in general and with salt? The pool builder is pushing for since I switched to salt.
If you seal be prepared to redo it every year or so. The non-stop stuff does not really work like hoped.
Remind me of what your coping will be made of please.
Remind me of what your coping will be made of please.
Come on decking aka the end of dirt/mud!!!
With the limestone make sure it is the harder style not the more porous to be on the safe side.
With the limestone make sure it is the harder style not the more porous to be on the safe side.
Deck's poured and troweled. Looks like it's going to be slippery but looks good. Gas inspection tomorrow. Clean up tomorrow or Saturday. Shooting for final inspection Monday. Doesn't look like plaster until the next Monday but doing everything I can to get plaster in next week before the 4th.
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IMissNimoy
Gold Supporter
I have a hand troweled deck. It's not slippery. I had other issues with some spalling on the troweled joints but I feel it was un related to the trowel work.
Inspector no showed today. Had the potential to move my plaster to Wednesday. Hopefully can still get it scheduled if he comes early and I don't need any changes. In the meantime here's that yard cleaned up a bit and the final decking. Doesn't seem like the trowelled will be too slick.
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Water finally in the pool and had my first dip! Looking pretty good. Started filling yesterday afternoon and was topped off about six this morning (after several checks through the night). Pool technician came out today and added chemicals. Said good for a swim after a couple hours of them distributing.
A couple items that are supposed to be addressed at pool school on Monday:
The sheer doesn't seem to be getting enough water to fully form. The returns line doesn't have a balance valve on it, only the spillway and shear. Hoping it's just a balance issue.
Can't seem to get the Intellicenter to connect to WiFi. It had the cable plugged into the wrong port on the antenna so fixing that cleared the 'No Ethernet Connection: No ethernet connection has been detected. Please verify that the cable is plugged in and try again.' error, but now getting a "Unable to connect to Wifi device. Please check the WiFi device is powered, fully booted and the network cable is connected to the ethernet port on the back of the IntelliCenter main board (TCP ERR)"
A couple items that are supposed to be addressed at pool school on Monday:
The sheer doesn't seem to be getting enough water to fully form. The returns line doesn't have a balance valve on it, only the spillway and shear. Hoping it's just a balance issue.
Can't seem to get the Intellicenter to connect to WiFi. It had the cable plugged into the wrong port on the antenna so fixing that cleared the 'No Ethernet Connection: No ethernet connection has been detected. Please verify that the cable is plugged in and try again.' error, but now getting a "Unable to connect to Wifi device. Please check the WiFi device is powered, fully booted and the network cable is connected to the ethernet port on the back of the IntelliCenter main board (TCP ERR)"
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I should add that I only found that the ethernet cable was connected to the wrong port because of a previous post on troublefreepools forums that popped up in google. Thanks Pentair IntelliCenter Installation Questions/Issues