That plaster info mentions the acid start up may cause problems briefly. I know my schedule has an acid bath on schedule for three days starting on the third day after plaster. What is the acid bath even doing? Is there best practice if they are doing it? Should it just be completely avoided?
Now if you really want the best start up out there go here: A Bicarb Start-up guide for TFP members The biggest problem with it is the fact it is harder and more labor intensive so most PB are not willing to do it. Some WILL all the pool owner to do it if they want to.
It is up to you if you want them to change their start up or go with what your PB wants to do. HE holds the warranty card so it is VERY important to talk it over with him!
I'm wondering if I can just get them to do a traditional startup or if they'll require the acid startup. I looked up water reports for the area and am at least close on the Ph but will have to look at the other component independently. Looks like I should just get an appropriate tat kit anyway.
What I am really wondering is if traditional or bicarbonate would get me in the pool earlier.
I followed up on the acid start and the pool builder said they weren't using that for my pool. He said they were going with something else but I wasn't clear what he was saying. He did say that it's based on the Langelier Saturation Index. Any ideas on follow up questions?
Great. It looks like there's at least three days before chlorine so still going to be some waiting to swim. Also 30 days before salt or CYA so I guess a while before SWG and standard treatment protocols. I got my test kit ordered. TF-100 with Speedstir, pH meter, and salt test strips.
He's my summary of pool plaster best practices I'm going to provide based on their links to see if they take any exceptions and why if there are any comments before I provide it to them.
1. Cement/aggregate ratio to be one part cement to 1.5-1.75 parts aggregate (marble sand).
2. Water/cement ratio to be 0.48 or less.
3. Discard plaster that has been mixed for more than 90 minutes.
4. Limit use of calcium chloride set-accelerant as possible and not to exceed 2 percent to the amount of white cement.
5. Water not to be added to plaster surfaces while troweling except as trowel lubricant.
6. Plaster to be completed from bottom to top, floor then walls.
7. Delay pool fill six hours for plaster cure after plaster completion as possible.
8. No acid startup.
9. Balance fill water to a saturation index value in the range of -0.5 to +0.5.
10. Brush vacuums only. No wheeled vacuums.
For the first 30 days you will use liquid chlorine to add your FC. I will tell you tablets just don't cut it for a good, daily source of FC..............I am doing a SLAM right now as I was trying to use only tablets to cut some work off my load...............did more harm than good Back to liquid chlorine!
It looks pretty good. Glad I went with the upgraded tile. I went with light grey mortar bed and grout. Might have popped a little more with white but I though that it would likely be harder to keep looking sharp over time. I was hoping I could do the bed white and grout grey, but no luck.
I was looking thorough the documentation for the SWG and it mentions not installing it for 30 days. Mine is already installed. Anybody know if it's OK that it's already installed as long as it's not activated or should it be replaced with a piece of pipe until then? Wonder if the start up methodology would have a impact on recommendation.
Plaster reaches its fully cured strength after 28 days and having salt in the water can somewhat interfere with the process. The actual threat is very small - it just goes against best practices for plaster hardness/longevity.
There are plenty of pools where salt was added on day one and have had no detrimental side effects.
Thanks for the clarification. The plan was to add salt and turn on the unit after the first 30 days. I believe the plan was to keep from using the heater for the first month as well. Just wanted to make sure having the cell installed already want a concern.