CYA

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Ahshort

Ahshort

Well-known member
Jun 3, 2022
46
Moses Lake, Wa
Pool Size
15250
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi new to managing my pool. Local company opened it early May water was clear. After a pool party with kilts of kids (read: pee) I put in 1 1/2 lbs shock. Cloudy the next morning. Took sample to local pool store said it was phosphates but I started researching and didn’t put their product in. Got a Taylor K2006 kit. Looks like CYR is well over 100, I asked pool store they said that was fine. As long as it’s under 200. I don’t think they know much. Now FC is @ 5, CC .3 pH 7. Turned off pump and I’m draining from warm shallow end and refilling from cold hose @ deep end at the same time, but I think it’s gonna take more than a few days. Pool still cloudy. Should I shock with cal hypo again tonite? Or add liquid Chlorine? With high CYR don’t I need a much higher chlorine level?
 
From your K2006, what are your following values so we can help you better:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Generally, Liquid Chlorine is better, but if you CH is low, CalHypo might be ok if you already have it.
 
FC 5
CC .3
Ph 7
TA 120
CH 130
CYA prolly 170 at least but not sure, had to do the diluted test
Not sure how CYA got so high test strips had it in ideal range before the wkend. I’ve been using the 3” tablets b/c that’s what they told me to do but I guess I’ll be stopping that…
I can’t just drain as we are on an extremely high water table. Using well water. My plan was to stop the water exchange at sundown, turn on filter and add shock or chlorine and let it go overnight, then start another round of water exchange. What should I try to bring FC to? Water cloudy, I can see the bottom but just barely.
 
How did you measure 0.3CC with the Taylor kit?

If you add chlorine during the exchange, you're just going to dump a bunch of it. You need to exchange A LOT of water to get down to a manageable CYA level. Turning the pump on is going to disrupt the stratification of the water which is what will make the exchange go faster.
 
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Ahshort said:
CYA prolly 170 at least but not sure, had to do the diluted test
Not sure how CYA got so high test strips had it in ideal range before the wkend. I’ve been using the 3” tablets b/c that’s what they told me to do but I guess I’ll be stopping that…
Click to expand...
It got high from the tablets use. Pool Stores often give bad advice. Every time you use one it adds CYA to the water and it doesn't go away, but the chlorine it adds does go away. So you add another tab to add Chlorine, but it adds CYA again. Etc. At TFP we recommend not using tabs except in very specific situations, like your CYA is not high and you're going on vacation. We recommend using either liquid chlorine or a Salt Water Generator.

Your CH is low so it would be ok to use Cal Hypo for a little bit, but I wouldn't let your CH get above 250 from the Cal Hypo use. Someone else with a fiberglass pool (which I don't have) might recommend a different level..

With your CYA so high, its not going to be possible for you to put in enough chlorine to effectively chlorinate. I suggest you keep chlorine around 5 while you do a water replacement. Then, when you have your CYA down to some where around 50, we can walk you through SLAMing.

Dont run the hose 24 hrs a day or you risk burning out your well pump. Do you have any rain in the forecast for some more water replacement?
 
Ahshort said:
Not sure how CYA got so high test strips had it in ideal range before the wkend.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately you're experiencing first-hand why our standing orders on test strips is to bin them and never look back. They are unreliable junk and not good for anything. Not occasional checks, nor verification, nothing.

And welcome to TFP. You're in the right place to get things back in order, that much I can promise you.
 
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No rain coming, dry here, it doesn’t rain much. I was thinking I’d have to turn on pump anyway to heat pool water tonite so there’s enough difference in the hose water to keep new water low in the deep end tomorrow. Hose is at 66*, pool with no pump/heat all day is now @ 78*. Can’t run hose 24/7, would be too much on my well pump. Just retested
FC @ 3.4
CC @ .2
Should I add cal hypo or chlorine tonite and circulate/heat? I can’t let it keep draining/filling overnight, if I don’t keep an eye on it something will for sure go wrong in the middle of the night.
 
Maybe you know something I don’t, but a well pump running 24/7 won’t be hard on it. Pumps like to run and only constant starts and stops are to be avoided.

Water replacement should be done as quickly as possible to keep the “new” water from mixing with the old.

Your CH is low enough that you can use calhypo without worry.
 
This will take forever with garden hoses and our well. Thinking of using 2 submersible pumps with 3” hoses on either end and pulling water from the lake, as opposed to pumping 12,000 gallons from our well. Lake water is clear now, (it gets a lil murky when it heats up mid-summer). Actually the pool builder used it for about half our initial fill. Is this a bad idea? Could I get it balanced fairly quickly? I’ve got 30 people coming to a 40th birthday party in a week and it’s gonna really suck if the pool is down. Let me know your thoughts please!
 

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Well shoot didn’t see that about metals in lake til after I started the exchange this morning. The pool store said their machine is down and they are the only one within 2 1/2 hours. Plus idk theat they are very informed on even using what they’ve got. Hoping it’ll be ok as the builder used lake water to fill the pool when they backfilled the dirt around the pool. When I’m done with the exchange, what’s the first thing to do? Shock? Should I adjust Ph or anything else before I shock? Or just shock and go from there? Thanks for everybody’s help! 🙂
 
Yeah but will be hard to get any kind of accurate CYA reading in the middle of the process as I’m filling cold from one end and pulling warmish from the other end with no pump running to keep water level in pool stable, very high water table here. Did 3 CYA readings before starting —-140, 160 and 170, very subjective with the black dot plus had to do the dilute thing. So I’m figuring it’s 170. Seems like I’d have to exchange most of the water? Or I could stop halfway, turn pump on to mix for a couple hours and go from that CYA reading. What are ur thoughts?
 
Think most of the water has exchanged, hard to tell but pumped 7 hrs yesterday and a couple more this morning before I had to take pumps back. Question: does CYA level matter before SLAM? Or just PH @ 7? I only have enough reagent for one more CYA test, was sposed to get more yesterday but Amazon saying delayed, and pool store closed Sundays. Test strips say CYA very low but then again test strips unreliable and that’s what got me into this mess in the first place. Cloudy here today so no sun on pool. Also I have cartridge filters, should I clean before SLAM?
 
Hmm ok just found the CYA/chlorine SLAM chart so I’ll just test and go from there, hopefully it’ll be at an OK to SLAM level. Thank u everybody for your help. ✌🏻
 
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