I’m so bad at recognizing slight changes in appearance. I would say it’s a little less green tinted. Definitely still tinted on the green side, but I feel like it may have lightened up a little bit.Yeah. With 4 passes, you're gooooood.
Is it still green tinted ? Or as tinted ?
CYA Testing
- Thread starter kcassidy0772
- Start date
I had to go straight from work to an event at my kids school so just getting home now since I left at 6:30 am this morning. I was nervous about the chlorine level dropping too low but it held up 8.5ppm compared to 10.5ppm this morning. What I’m wondering now is do I add chlorine in the morning since it’s at 8.5ppm and I will not be home until 6:30pm?
You do whatever you need to do to stay above minimum by the next dose. No matter what, slightly green tint is better than slightly green tint + algae.
It appears your mostly nice day loss is 2ppm right now. Good to know for planning purposes.
What CYA level are you getting now ? Theoretically you can do nothing, lose 2ppm again tomorrow and still be safely above min tomorrow night.
When I tested on Sunday I was 40 or 50(Probably 50) and then added the equivalent of 10pm. So I’ll have to test tomorrow evening while sun is still out to update.
I get it that......... life.
But maybe that's some of the CYA being off issue. According to the testing, it was low (high daily loss, none overnight) and almost as soon as it was raised, you're losing 2 ppm a day.
30 works for most LC people up here so that's where I'd guess you landed.
So I added 20oz this morning just in case. I’ll test my CYA tonight. So with the pool color slightly improving but still a ways to go, is there a chance it can keeps improving as it stays at the lower levels?I get it that......... life.
Sausage cheddar and egg sandwich and a small hot coffee milk two sugars
But maybe that's some of the CYA being off issue. According to the testing, it was low (high daily loss, none overnight) and almost as soon as it was raised, you're losing 2 ppm a day.
30 works for most LC people up here so that's where I'd guess you landed.
So, full disclosure time. (No judging, I promise. You didn't know better at whatever point, possibly for years. ).
How did you get metals in the pool ? It's likely not iron unless your home plumbing is ancient. Copper didn't come from your municipal water, but would from an ionizer (possibly long abandoned) or a host of typical pool products like algecide or Xtra blue tabs. Much of the Walmart aisle for example will add copper. Everything blue this or blue that.
My hope is this fixes itself at regular range FC and with no staining (but clearly metals which took a long time to build) you can maintain blue water while you liesurely work on exchanging some water to bring you below the threshold where it appears as it did. You may even be able to wait it out for rain to do it for you if we have a wet summer. Or it's still less of an emergency if you have to do it manually.
If it doesn't clear, it forces the need to drain immediately and the amount needed is a total guess. Some metals, say a .2, is fine. Again with no staining I suspect you're closer to ok than not. But a 1 ft drain may not do enough and you'd need to do another. That'll be for you to weigh out and decide if we end up there. Subsequent drains remove good water with the bad, so ideally we get it right the first time.
). How did you get metals in the pool ? It's likely not iron unless your home plumbing is ancient. Copper didn't come from your municipal water, but would from an ionizer (possibly long abandoned) or a host of typical pool products like algecide or Xtra blue tabs. Much of the Walmart aisle for example will add copper. Everything blue this or blue that.
My hope is this fixes itself at regular range FC and with no staining (but clearly metals which took a long time to build) you can maintain blue water while you liesurely work on exchanging some water to bring you below the threshold where it appears as it did. You may even be able to wait it out for rain to do it for you if we have a wet summer. Or it's still less of an emergency if you have to do it manually.
If it doesn't clear, it forces the need to drain immediately and the amount needed is a total guess. Some metals, say a .2, is fine. Again with no staining I suspect you're closer to ok than not. But a 1 ft drain may not do enough and you'd need to do another. That'll be for you to weigh out and decide if we end up there. Subsequent drains remove good water with the bad, so ideally we get it right the first time.
I’m confused too about the metals. But maybe I misunderstood. Since I started on the TFP last June I’ve not added anything other than the products we talk about here (LQ, CYA, Baking soda,etc). But BEFORE last June I was on the typical pool store diet and absolutely used some of those products. But after SLAM last June my pool was great the rest of the year. Also, because of a leak issue last fall, I had to drain my pool down to about 1.5 feet in order to get in and find the leak (that was Oct). After that filled back up got CYA and chlorine back up then closed. Not sure that matters but just in case putting it out there. So if clear pool last summer means there was no metals issue at that time, then I’m confused too because I haven’t added any of those products.So, full disclosure time. (No judging, I promise. You didn't know better at whatever point, possibly for years.
How did you get metals in the pool ? It's likely not iron unless your home plumbing is ancient. Copper didn't come from your municipal water, but would from an ionizer (possibly long abandoned) or a host of typical pool products like algecide or Xtra blue tabs. Much of the Walmart aisle for example will add copper. Everything blue this or blue that.
My hope is this fixes itself at regular range FC and with no staining (but clearly metals which took a long time to build) you can maintain blue water while you liesurely work on exchanging some water to bring you below the threshold where it appears as it did. You may even be able to wait it out for rain to do it for you if we have a wet summer. Or it's still less of an emergency if you have to do it manually.
If it doesn't clear, it forces the need to drain immediately and the amount needed is a total guess. Some metals, say a .2, is fine. Again with no staining I suspect you're closer to ok than not. But a 1 ft drain may not do enough and you'd need to do another. That'll be for you to weigh out and decide if we end up there. Subsequent drains remove good water with the bad, so ideally we get it right the first time.
It totally does, and THANKS.
So you're basically on a new fill, or weren't heavy on the old pool store products since it was mostly drained last year at least. Same difference.
For everything you've mentioned and I forgot, apologies there. We're almost 3 weeks deep and i have goldfish brain along with helping a bunch of folks while trying to remember every detail for all of them. Lol.
It could be dumb luck that the town flushed the pipes as they do once or twice a year while you were adding some water. Iron would be preferable because it can be filtered when evident. Copper on the other hand can only be replaced with low copper water. Have a read in case we end up on the iron path.
Iron Fill Water Filter - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks, and no apologizes necessary. I can’t even remember what I said yesterday. I’ll definitely read that article later. Based on what you’re saying, am I correct that you’re thinking it’s likely iron and the fix is probably waiting it out versus replacing water?It totally does, and THANKS.
So you're basically on a new fill, or weren't heavy on the old pool store products since it was mostly drained last year at least. Same difference.
For everything you've mentioned and I forgot, apologies there. We're almost 3 weeks deep and i have goldfish brain along with helping a bunch of folks while trying to remember every detail for all of them. Lol.
It could be dumb luck that the town flushed the pipes as they do once or twice a year while you were adding some water. Iron would be preferable because it can be filtered when evident. Copper on the other hand can only be replaced with low copper water. Have a read in case we end up on the iron path.
Iron Fill Water Filter - Further Reading
We're hoping it goes away (for now) as many do in regular FC range. If so, there's less rush.
With all you've described it's more likely iron which can cause green although it many times goes brown (rust). We had an expert discussion behind the scenes and couldn't nail down either green or brown for iron. Possibly because iron water may also have copper and it's a smoke screen.
Leslie's published their metals testing accuracies recently and it sadly confirmed what we knew deep down, that it's a crud shoot. When it's convienent and you're going by a pool store, have your water tested just so we have a data point. (Although a very loose one).
With all you've described it's more likely iron which can cause green although it many times goes brown (rust). We had an expert discussion behind the scenes and couldn't nail down either green or brown for iron. Possibly because iron water may also have copper and it's a smoke screen.
Leslie's published their metals testing accuracies recently and it sadly confirmed what we knew deep down, that it's a crud shoot. When it's convienent and you're going by a pool store, have your water tested just so we have a data point. (Although a very loose one).
They'll do it all on the one test. Tell them you'll monitor the levels going forward and be back for sequesterants if any staining occurs because it hasn't yet.
Sequesterants keep the metals in solution and the pool store LOVES selling you ongoing chemicals to hide the problem they caused.
We drain/exchange to remove the problem one and done.
Smile and thank them and ignore *anything* they push.
Sequesterants keep the metals in solution and the pool store LOVES selling you ongoing chemicals to hide the problem they caused.
We drain/exchange to remove the problem one and done.Smile and thank them and ignore *anything* they push.
Just read through the saga, and I've got to admire all the attention paid to the issues from all parties!
One minor suggestion to add. The final suspended dead algae can sometimes be a bear to get rid of. Pool circulation and brushing can tend to keep it suspended, and with the concentration pretty low, not much filter progress seems to happen. Try bumping your CL up (so we don't encourage anything to grow), and the turn off your pump and leave the pool alone for as long as you can stand it - overnight, a full day, or even more. Of course test Cl so it doesn't get low, and bail out of the waiting period if you have to add more. Hopefully a non-windy period, so we don't get as much blowing into the pool. When waiting drives you over the precipice by not running/cleaning things, look closely at the bottom - do you see dead algae there? Is there more "poofing" of dust when you finally brush? Does it seem clearer? Dead algae is very slightly heavier than water, so will slowly settle - but it may take a while. It may be an even coating that only is seen when you brush - it may not be enough to form noticeable clumps on the bottom. Turn things back on, and brush toward the main drain. At worst, you notice little or no change, and carry on with the concern about metals.
One minor suggestion to add. The final suspended dead algae can sometimes be a bear to get rid of. Pool circulation and brushing can tend to keep it suspended, and with the concentration pretty low, not much filter progress seems to happen. Try bumping your CL up (so we don't encourage anything to grow), and the turn off your pump and leave the pool alone for as long as you can stand it - overnight, a full day, or even more. Of course test Cl so it doesn't get low, and bail out of the waiting period if you have to add more. Hopefully a non-windy period, so we don't get as much blowing into the pool. When waiting drives you over the precipice by not running/cleaning things, look closely at the bottom - do you see dead algae there? Is there more "poofing" of dust when you finally brush? Does it seem clearer? Dead algae is very slightly heavier than water, so will slowly settle - but it may take a while. It may be an even coating that only is seen when you brush - it may not be enough to form noticeable clumps on the bottom. Turn things back on, and brush toward the main drain. At worst, you notice little or no change, and carry on with the concern about metals.
We believe the algae is entirely gone as clarity is perfect, but tinted. So it suggests it's progressed from metals +algae, to only metals.
4 OCLTs passed over 6(?) days so we're about as confident as we can be there.
No quibble about it being all dead. Just going from the Sunday pics that seemed a bit hazy - but your eye and experience in helping with these matters far, far exceeds mine, so carry on!
Doesn't mean I'm perfect. I'm as human as anyone else, so please be my wingman anytime.
Ok so this morning my FC was 8.5ppm and I added 20oz (1.7ppm) landing me at 10.2ppm. Just tested and was 8.5ppm. So I lost just under 2ppm. Sounds good. I also tested my CYA. Unfortunately cloudy when I got home which I don’t like testing like that, but I feel confident it was 50ppm tonight. Coincidentally I just got the Sample solution in the mail too which I tried. Pretty neat.
I also decided to test for other levels since FC is under 10. My Ph was about 7.8, Alkalinity was 70, and Calcium Hardness was 75