CYA high / needing to add water

So draining 90% of the water?!? I was thinking third to a half.
Right now you're at 180+. You need to drain to 60 or below to be more manageable, which is 2/3s. If you stop too soon, you'll be draining again and removing good water with the bad, so it's advisable to go well above 2/3 to ensure you hit the target.

The no drain exchange will always have some mixing going on which hinders the outcome a little.
 
So draining 90% of the water?!? I was thinking third to a half. And then trying to just take some more out each week from vacuuming and waste down to the skimmer / rely on more dilution from rain that’s coming as well as switching to liquid chlorine
Pool hose siphon is working! Pump is off. I will try another dilution to recheck
 
Always round your CYA up to the next 10. 50...so likely 150-180. The error is high the more you dilute.
we attempted to lower CYA but using hose was not efficient; hardly any water was coming out. would take like 5 days to do the exchange so we lowered to skimmer level for now and will keep trying to dilute weekly with using the waste feature on our filter. We may rent a pump in the fall as seems like best to do a big refill when some of the high heat is over; unless it comes more in line. We are also due for some rain so that could help also. I retested today and it was around 100 undiluted so I "think" it came down. I also received my FAS/DPD chlorine test and tested and per that test, my chlorine is at 30ppm... really high. So per pool math, I dont need to add any chlorine at this time and let the sun evaporate to get it down. I am also going to take a sample to my pool store to see if my numbers are correct. I feel like my test scores are all over the place so need a bit of validation. The Alkalinity test today was sky high way more than when I tested 2 days ago...

The reagent bottle (2 oz) that came today for the chlorine test also seems to let 2 drops out at a time, so that is maybe throwing off my results. This is compared to drops coming out of the smaller bottles, which are easier to control.

there are also conflicting directions on the amt of DPD powder/ the taylor box says 2 scoops, the paper in the dpd kit said one heaping scoop?? i will call the customer service line on Monday to see why there is a difference. Its all taylor materials

==========================================
cypress
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 12000 gallons
Chemistry: Liquid Chlorine
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 30.0 (7 minutes ago)
pH: 7.8 (4 hours ago)
TA: 160 (4 hours ago)
CH: 270 (4 hours ago)
CYA: 100 (4 hours ago)
TEMPERATURE: 86° (4 hours ago)
CSI: 0.42 (7 minutes ago)
==========================================
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I am also going to take a sample to my pool store to see if my numbers are correct.
Please don't do this, your test kit is more accurate than their test. All it will do is confuse you. Trust your test kit.

You chemistry is not bad, except the CYA level. If you cannot exchange water, then maintain your FC a 11-13.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ktrunner
I did take it just because I’m a little ocd and my store does the testing using all of the same Taylor reagents. I was encouraged as they showed lower cya at 120 in lieu of the 140 from last week. At least the trends match my results even if the numbers are not exactly the same.

I guess I should keep checking chlorine daily to see how quickly it drops from 30ppm.. I have 4 gallons of 10.5% chlorine ready when I need it

Thanks for al the feedback. I am finally learning some of this
 
We are now about 3 weeks into using pool math and liquid chlorine after a couple of years of just plunking a few tabs in… well our pool has never looked better! All traces of the algae is gone! We didn’t need to even slam… we are still working on getting PH down. And CYA still high.. hoping with rain and losing some water with the waste feature will slowly bring down
Current readings and pics..
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9521.jpeg
    IMG_9521.jpeg
    178.9 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_9520.jpeg
    IMG_9520.jpeg
    535.6 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_9519.jpeg
    IMG_9519.jpeg
    774.1 KB · Views: 11
You really need your own kit to determine the actual CYA level. I'd get one now...Link-->Test Kits Compared

Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine a day until your kit arrives. Nothing else.

When you kit arrives, do the diluted CYA test, #8 here and report results. We'll help you determine how much to replace.


To replace water, Follow the "no drain water exchange" here: If you have an overflow, and the no drain indicates fill to the deep end, then you can just fill water to the deep end and allow the water to go to overflow.

Why fill at the deep end and drain from the top? I have read that CYA is heavier than the water so will be in higher concentartions at the deep end. It seems that draining from the deep end would lower CYA faster and be more water efficient, wouldn't it?
 
I have read that CYA is heavier than the water
This is not accurate. CYA is mixed evenly in the pool water.

Cold water is denser than warm water, so adding colder tap water straight in to the bottom while draining the warmer water from the top helps keep the water from mixing too much, maximizing the exchange efficiency.
 
This is not accurate. CYA is mixed evenly in the pool water.

Cold water is denser than warm water, so adding colder tap water straight in to the bottom while draining the warmer water from the top helps keep the water from mixing too much, maximizing the exchange efficiency.
I was basing my position on the attached research. I am not a scientist ;)
Creative Water Solutions
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.