Hi, i recently added 1.74 lbs of Stabilizer to my pool since my local pool store tested my water and said there was zero Stabilizer in my pool. My Chlorine level has been constantly between 3-4 ppm. After I added the stabilizer I been smelling Chlorine in the water. My question is does Stabilizer carry a certain amount if chlorine, or is my chlorine level is gonna shoot up high. BTW I'm running a SWG. Thanks.
CYA AND CHLORINE
- Thread starter Rigo11
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,267
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
We're going to need a bit more info to help. For example:
- Do you have the ability to test your own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? That's priority #1. Pool store CYA tests are notoriously wrong.
- With the proper test kit, we'll need to see all of your test results.
- Adding stabilizer will not give off a chlorine smell. More than likely you are smelling excessive CCs in the water; a precursor to alage.
Also update your signature with your pool gallon capacity so we can help you with Poolmath calculations if necessary. Thanks!
- Do you have the ability to test your own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? That's priority #1. Pool store CYA tests are notoriously wrong.
- With the proper test kit, we'll need to see all of your test results.
- Adding stabilizer will not give off a chlorine smell. More than likely you are smelling excessive CCs in the water; a precursor to alage.
Also update your signature with your pool gallon capacity so we can help you with Poolmath calculations if necessary. Thanks!
11,
CYA will prevent your FC from quickly burning off.. If you were running a SWCG without any CYA, you would have had to have the output set pretty high.. Now that you added the CYA, I suspect that your SWCG output is now much too high..
But the only way to know for sure is to start testing your own water... otherwise you are just guessing...
Thanks,
Jim R.
CYA will prevent your FC from quickly burning off.. If you were running a SWCG without any CYA, you would have had to have the output set pretty high.. Now that you added the CYA, I suspect that your SWCG output is now much too high..
But the only way to know for sure is to start testing your own water... otherwise you are just guessing...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks Jim, I actually last night lowered the output on the SWG I usually run it at 80 I lowered it to 60 sisnce I thought by adding the CYA que going to bring up my chlorine higher then it usually which is 3-4 PPM.... BTW is a 10k pool.
Thanks I will definitely get the Taylor K2006C so I can test myself. I will update my signature. Is a 10k gallon pool. I was really hesitant in adding the stabilizer since I dont see to be losing much chlorine. I run my SWG at 80 output most of the time. But my local pool store was telling me I needed it since there was no stabilizer in the pool. Not sure if that's just a tool they use to get me to buy their product.. ?
We find that many times pool store employees primary goal is to sell stuff, not necessarily get your pool in perfect condition. As to whether that is because of improper training, lack of knowledge or just to sell stuff I will leave up to you. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their advice and testing.
To know what is going on with your pool we need accurate test results we can trust, and those don't come from a pool store. We base our pool care system on your personal accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 test kit.
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.
While entirely optional, I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.
To know what is going on with your pool we need accurate test results we can trust, and those don't come from a pool store. We base our pool care system on your personal accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 test kit.
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.
While entirely optional, I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.
Thanks for the info. I though the same about local pool stores. I'm ordering the Taylor K-2006C today so I can have proper reading. I'm using a Taylor K1000 that only reads chlorine and PH.