CVA-24 Repair -- not the limit switches

davethomaspilot

Bronze Supporter
Aug 30, 2015
97
Apex,NC
My CVA-24 valve was stuck. I tried shorting the limit switches with the manual switch in both positions, but it didn't help.

I found that I can actually "help" the valve move with the handle. It makes a racket when moving, but eventually gets to the either position when I used the manual switch.

I think this means the gears need replacing and just wanted to confirm that's a good bet versus buying and entire valve.

Thanks!
 
I have fixed and replaced several of these over the years and while expensive to do, I find that installing a new valve will last longer than trying to rebuild the internals on an old one. If it's a limit switch, that's an easy DIY fix; If it's the gear box or motor, as @Jimrahbe said, not worth my time or effort. Definitely heed Jim's advice on the valve itself - even the "NeverLube" valves need to be taken apart and cleaned every so often. I had a tiny leak in the shaft of one of my valves and when I tried turning it, it was very stiff. After getting the o-ring replacement kit, I took the valve apart, redid the o-rings and lubed everything up. After that, it turned as smoothly as butter.

Good luck.
 
Wow, replace a $250 valve instead of replacing $30 gears? Why does a new valve last longer than an overhauled one? What wears out?

Is it a big deal to replace the gears compared to switching the entire valve?

I ordered the gears yesterday, but even though the supplier had listed it as "in stock" on their website, today I got email saying they, in fact, could not supply them. So, it might have to spend the $250 for a new valve anyway.
 
Found the valve for $155 plus shipping. More reasonable, so based on JoyFul's advice, I'll order a new one.

Meanwhile, I'll disassemble the broken one. Maybe I can 3d print replacement gears and have a spare one ready to go. I have limit switches by the dozens, but they are ok.
 
Sadly, prices have gone way up. Probably due to Pentair wanting everyone to move to their (not-)IntelliValve line of actuators. As a company it is a bad business decision to have two competing products doing basically the same function for radically different prices.

Also note that all the analog style 24V actuators (Hayward, Jandy, Pentair/Compool,etc) are basically interchangeable so you should just buy the brand that gives you the lowest price.
 
Turns out the gears are metal, so a 3d printed one probably isn't strong enough.

Access to the gears was easy enough. The toggle switch blocks access to one of the screws, so it has to come out first.

Only the smallest of the three gears appears damaged, but on it there's a flat spot that spans the distance of 7 or 8 teeth.

There must have been pretty big force to strip those teeth! The valve isn't that hard to turn by hand and the limit switches are working. So, I wonder why it stripped? And, why should I expect a new one not to strip the same way?
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.