Crystal clear water secret?

[PoolBrews]

I think we posted at the same time. There is no "secret" to crystal clear water. It's all about killing organics (chlorine) and filtration.......it's that simple.

If you are using adequate FC and can't clear your pool, then filtration is likely inadequate.

My pool is only 6,750 gallons, and the filter is the Hayward C200S - is this filter not properly sized? If it isn't, what would you recommend?

My other 2 pools both had DE filters - and they were awesome. Where I'm at now there is an issue with backwashing the DE so I went with the recommended cartridge filter from the builder. Maybe that was my mistake

 

[markayash]

I would consider pollen as well.
I am in Oviedo and the pollen is bad. I have had to partial slam 3 times now. Lat time it rained and dropped all the pollen off the screen enclosure into the pool. Everything gets hazy. Raise FC to about 20 and 12 hours later water is crystal clear.

Pollen is bad in Atlanta, mine was clear until the slight rain yesterday..I watched the yellow cloud hit the pool and spread

 

[PoolBrews]

Set your filter swap based on psi raise, not time.

If I did that, I could probably go 3-4 months before seeing a 10psi raise. But based on testing in December and January, I found that my heat pump starts requiring the pump to run at 95%-100% when I see a raise of 6psi or more... so I got in the habit of doing it every month. I could set my swap limit at 4psi raise to be safe.

 

[PoolBrews]

I would consider pollen as well.
I am in Oviedo and the pollen is bad. I have had to partial slam 3 times now. Lat time it rained and dropped all the pollen off the screen enclosure into the pool. Everything gets hazy. Raise FC to about 20 and 12 hours later water is crystal clear.

That could be part of the problem! Both times this has happened has been after a good rain here in Florida.

 

[duraleigh]

That filter is rated at 120 gpm.....PLENTY big enough for your pool. I assume you are running your VS pump so it doesn't pump more than 100 gpm.......I don't know it's capability.

Regardless, your filter size is gracious plenty. What does your water look like right now?

 

[duraleigh]

If I did that, I could probably go 3-4 months before seeing a 10psi raise.

10 psi is NOT the criteria......25% from clean psi is what you should be measuring and, yes, a filter that size can go months without needing cleaning....perfectly normal.

Do you have a current pic of your water? How often do you brush?

 

[PoolBrews]

10 psi is NOT the criteria......25% from clean psi is what you should be measuring and, yes, a filter that size can go months without needing cleaning....perfectly normal.

Do you have a current pic of your water? How often do you brush?

Thanks for the info! So, since starting psi is 14, I would be looking at cleaning at 18psi. Does this need to based off of the pump running at 100%? I don't normally run it at 100%, so I would have to bump it up just to check. My heater runs every morning right not at 85% - can I use psi at 85% as my starting point and add 25% to that? I can see this every morning without changing pump speed.

My pump can only move a max of 66 GPM at 100%.

I brush 1-2 times a week and run my S200 each time. During a SLAM I brush every day. Started a SLAM early this morning. FC is at 31 - already looking clearer.

 

[duraleigh]

can I use psi at 85% as my starting point and add 25% to that? I can see this every morning without changing pump speed.

Yes. Simply ALWAYS check psi at that setting and you should see a VERY slow rise as the filter catches particles and psi increases over the months.

Since you started a SLAM, can you post a complete set of numbers since BEFORE you started the SLAM? I would like to see your overall condition. Sorry if I already asked.....I am working with several folks!

 

[Silver_2000]

FYI - i have 22,000 gallon pool and spa and a cartridge filter and typically change the cartridges 2x a year ( when I remember ) and my pool stays pretty crystal without issue ...
These folks know what they are saying ...

 

[PoolBrews]

My numbers from Yesterday (before SLAM, slight haze to water):

FC: 7.0
CC: 0.0
pH: 7.4
TA: 110 (My TA is always high... I have 130 coming out of my fill water. It's usually between 90 and 120)
CH: 475
CYA: 80
Salt: 3400
Water Temp: 88

 

[duraleigh]

Based on what I see of your pool water and those numbers going into the SLAM, I would suggest an OCLT this evening and finish it tomorrow AM before the sun hits the pool. Of course, keep running your pump 24/7 and DO NOT run your SWG during the OCLT.

If not tonight, certainly tomorrow. Just keep your FC up around 30 until you begin the test.

 

[duraleigh]

On a seperate subject, can you give me the CH and pH of your fill water. Have you ever tested for iron? These are completely separate issues so let's get your pool crystal clear first.

 

[markayash]

Thanks for the info! So, since starting psi is 14, I would be looking at cleaning at 18psi. Does this need to based off of the pump running at 100%? I don't normally run it at 100%, so I would have to bump it up just to check. My heater runs every morning right not at 85% - can I use psi at 85% as my starting point and add 25% to that? I can see this every morning without changing pump speed.

My pump can only move a max of 66 GPM at 100%.

I brush 1-2 times a week and run my S200 each time. During a SLAM I brush every day. Started a SLAM early this morning. FC is at 31 - already looking clearer.

View attachment 131898

Looks nice!

 

[PoolBrews]

Fill water CH is 175, and pH is 7.7. The CH initially got as high as 875 during initial curing. I did a partial drain in late December to bring it down to 400. It's risen a little since then.

We have municipal water - and yes, we have it tested for nearly everything prior to installing our pool. Virtually no traces of iron in water (or copper). Just calcium!!

 

[duraleigh]

With that fill of CH 175 and the rains we get in Florida, high CH would not be an issue for you, pH the same. It appeared you had some iron staining on the pool surfaces from your pic. Those tests would indicate you don't.

Let us know the results of your OCLT.

 

[PoolBrews]

I'm not sure where you saw iron stains - I see no stains anywhere in the pool of any kind. I'm guessing the photo angle or lighting is causing that. Can you identify specifically where you think you see iron stains? I'll try to get a better pic.

I haven't had a pH issue... it generally stays around mid 7's. The hardness in the water stems from the initial curing period and me not draining enough to drop it lower when I did the in place drain. I though the 475 wasn't that big of an issue - do I need to lower it by doing a partial drain again?

I also don't know exactly what chemicals were added the first month - a pool company was taking care of it and I now wish I was checking things then.

For OCLT, I assume you want to know FC after sundown, and FC before sunrise? Do you need CC as well?

 

[PoolBrews]

I have to ask - would the initial month of curing have raised the hardness tremendously? In the November/December timeframe is when I received my TF-100 test kit. That is when I found that my CH was around 850-875. This was about 4 weeks after the install. Or would the pool guy have had to add something to raise it that high?

 

[duraleigh]

Probably the pool guy adding Cal Hypo.....who knows for sure but it's water under the bridge.

It looked to me like the photo showed iron type staining along the floor and wall in the upper right of the pic. If you don't see it, then it's not there and just my misinterpretation of the pic.

 

[PoolBrews]

I think that's the reflection of the coping in the water - looks brown below the surface of the water.

 

[HeyEng]

I am going to add that it very well could be pollen. It's terrible in ATL right now, and would guess isn't great in FL right now, either. I would suggest running the filter pump for a full 24 hours and see what it looks like...that is if your OCLT passes.