Cracked Jandy Union Nut

[Devehf]

I have a cracked Jandy union nut on the suction side. I had to remove the pump last fall for Hurricane Nicole and I must have over tightened the nut when I put everything back together. I noticed some air leaking into the system and found the crack to be causing a leak.

Do you think this hack will work? Or do I need to replace the whole tail piece.

I should probably replace the o-rings.




Do you think this hack will work? Or do I need to replace the whole tail piece.

This is the nut replacement I am looking at. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030C3P4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[PoolStored]

Do you think this hack will work? Or do I need to replace the whole tail piece.

No, that won't work. I would replace the tailpiece and the nut with the correct nut. It will save you a bunch of headache.

 

[1poolman1]

I have a cracked Jandy union nut on the suction side. I had to remove the pump last fall for Hurricane Nicole and I must have over tightened the nut when I put everything back together. I noticed some air leaking into the system and found the crack to be causing a leak.

Do you think this hack will work? Or do I need to replace the whole tail piece.

I should probably replace the o-rings.


View attachment 473937View attachment 473937

Do you think this hack will work? Or do I need to replace the whole tail piece.

This is the nut replacement I am looking at. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030C3P4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jandy threads are proprietary, only Jandy fits Jandy. That nut you reference is a generic that is used on older heater heatsink tailpieces and portable spa heaters.
You need a new Jandy part or a high-temp union (there are threads inside that suction port). It would be good, if possible, to move the pump back several inches. Usually 5X the inside diameter of the pipe is a good number.

 

[generessler]

Wanted to pass along that if you don't want to cut plumbing all the way back to an open space for a coupler, consider a reamer like this one. Pricey, but over time I've used it to salvage enough fittings to pay for it several times over. There are cheaper versions , but I have no idea how well they work. This one is trouble-free.

It's a good idea to use a medium-weight PVC glue on the reamed ends. The tiny taper that makes new fittings a force fit is gone. No worries though. Never a leak with 8 reamed joints so far.

No good in this case... But, there's a company called Magic Plastics selling split union nuts that would work out well if it weren't for Jandy's proprietary thread sizes. Jandy's sales tactics are crazy-making.

 

[Devehf]

move the pump back several inches. Usually 5X the inside diameter of the pipe

Interesting. So this distance is from the 90 degree elbow to the suction port?

 

[HermanTX]

Interesting. So this distance is from the 90 degree elbow to the suction port?

Yes - about 10 inches. Not always feasible on some set ups but if you have the room it helps.

 

[Devehf]

Update: hired a pool plumbing guy to redo the pump plumbing to include an extra 10" or so after the 90° elbow on the suction side. Pressure side now is a little more convoluted but seems great so far. He also installed unions with internal threads which are supposed to be more durable.

 

[RichardU]

Wanted to pass along that if you don't want to cut plumbing all the way back to an open space for a coupler, consider a reamer like this one. Pricey, but over time I've used it to salvage enough fittings to pay for it several times over. There are cheaper versions , but I have no idea how well they work. This one is trouble-free.

I logged in solely to thank you for this post. I was looking at replacing five different fittings to get to a clear section of pipe. Cheers.