Correct order to backwash sand filter and empty that basket? ( + green taking over!)

[VinylDelight]

Update: I did the slow hose drain until tonight and was ready to shock... but to do so I need new measurements, mainly being CYA (I know it's lower, but how much I suppose considering my very slow process) and then the pH (according to SLAM walk through).

My main questions now are:

1. Is there any cause for concern for running a pool filter when you know the pool is full of algae and very low on chlorine?
2. After the slow water displacement replacement method is it common/best practice to run your filter before adding chlorine so you can re-measure your chemicals?
3. My Robot is a Dolphin s200, and is it safe to run this thing back to back for an entire day for a few days while I SLAM (would have to be manually turned on so it won't run while sleeping, but I would hose off the filters between runs)? I do not have another type of vacuum on hand but was told those robots do vacuum the entire pool.
4. If I need to add muriatic acid to lower the pH, is Klean-Strip® Green™ Muriatic Acid, 1 Gallon Robot or human? a good one? I don't see any label that lists ingredients, but this does say it has less fumes than other muriatic acid, so my concern would be there is some additive or something I might not want in my pool.

What I did was start up the robot and add 2 gallons of chlorine thinking it's not enough to get to SLAM levels but I also don't know how accurate my readings are. My pH appeared to be above the range however this was just a spot test near the deep end skimmer before any filter action mixed up the pool water. I then did a test strip in a spot a few feet away and it came back within the acceptable range. (My best guess is neither of these readings are useful until I mix the water up.)

Thank you again!

 

[mknauss]

Is there any cause for concern for running a pool filter when you know the pool is full of algae and very low on chlorine?

Only that the filter can clog quickly.

After the slow water displacement replacement method is it common/best practice to run your filter before adding chlorine so you can re-measure your chemicals?

I would not add more than 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine until you can do a full test of the pool water chemistry.

and is it safe to run this thing back to back for an entire day for a few days while I SLAM

I would wait until your pool is blue and cloudy such that the robot is clearing dead algae.

 

[wireform]

You need a few hours of pump time to mix water and then the test is in order.

 

[VinylDelight]

Ok so update has me confused (this is unchanged), and I did the FC test this morning and it came back 14, but the CC came back .5 -- it was barely pink after adding the 5 drops. (Bear in mind, this is the second time I've done this test, and although I read the instructions over 10 times and watched videos I simply cannot rule out the fact that I major fubar'd something.)

I was expecting the CC to be significantly higher since the SLAM protocol actually says that CC must be .5 or lower to proceed, among other things. Is this reasonable? I know my pH was high, and I added some muriatic acid yesterday, but if it is still too high what would this mean both quantitatively (my FC stays high) and qualitatively (algae still can live and pool stays cloudy green despite my FC being high)?

Thank you all again.

 

[Newdude]

CCs are an independent thing that may or may not be higher at any given moment. Pay then no mind until you have clear water and held FC overnight. Then, you'll want .5 or less to be finished.


Failing any of the 3 SLAM criteria is a fail and a need to continue/start SLAM. You don't need to fail 2 or 3 out of 3.

Clear water
OCLT
.5 CCs

 

[Mdragger88]

Also - ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm so that is why it gets adjusted to 7.2 before beginning the SLAM Process.
So - either carry on & don’t worry about it or adjust it if/when fc falls below 10ppm.
To clarify the rest-
SLAM is necessary if ANY of these are true:
You have visible algae,
You failed an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test,
You have cc’s above .5
Or your fc has fallen to zero

The absence of cc’s doesn’t mean there’s not a problem even though their presence is often indicative of one.

Please post all your results since you have refilled & circulated.

 

[VinylDelight]

Thank you both. I definitely know that the SLAM is only done after all 3 are satisfied but I just wasn't sure what it meant that CC is so low.

Also, I stopped testing the pH after starting SLAM but my best guess was that my pH was still on the high end. And now I'm just kind of thinking it all over because, like I said before, I'm new to the testing and the strips say "hey you're good!" then the TF pro says "nah!" and then of course is the fact that I have no clue how the pH got over 8 anyways considering I just replaced half the water with municipal.

Water still looks like a decent swamp so I will check FC tonight and add chlorine as needed. Ran the robot vac as well to disturb the algae biofilms but I just don't have the chance to scrub the pool with a brush often.

 

[Mdragger88]

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[Bperry]

Thank you both. I definitely know that the SLAM is only done after all 3 are satisfied but I just wasn't sure what it meant that CC is so low.

Also, I stopped testing the pH after starting SLAM but my best guess was that my pH was still on the high end. And now I'm just kind of thinking it all over because, like I said before, I'm new to the testing and the strips say "hey you're good!" then the TF pro says "nah!" and then of course is the fact that I have no clue how the pH got over 8 anyways considering I just replaced half the water with municipal.

Water still looks like a decent swamp so I will check FC tonight and add chlorine as needed. Ran the robot vac as well to disturb the algae biofilms but I just don't have the chance to scrub the pool with a brush often.

Do yourself a favor and ignore pH and CC until the water looks clear enough to pass. Then start testing CC. Once the SLAM is done, then you can wait for the FC to drip below 10ppm and test your pH, but don’t waste time testing when the chlorine is higher than 10ppm.

 

[VinylDelight]

So what do these symptoms mean to a pool pro?

9AM
FC 14
CC .5
Added 1 gallon 10% chlorine

7:30PM
FC dropped to 12
CC dropped to 0

Pool looks just as bad as yesterday (swampy green). From What I gather CC should be indicative of contaminants in the water, but mine is 0 so that's what I'm trying to wrap my head around? I know I was told to ignore CC, but part of me is wondering: is the algae dead and I simply am not vacuuming/clearing the debris (therefor wasting effort with continuing chlorine shock levels)?

What concerns me most right now is that I do not have a pool vacuum. I'm turning on the filter for almost the entire day (it autoruns in the AM and I manually turn it on in the pm) and running the dolphin robot a few times per day but its filter is not incredibly dirty. Today I think I ran it 3 cycles.

(Added 1.5 gal 10% chlorine after measuring to continue SLAM since no blue+cloudy water.)

 

[mknauss]

CC is indicative of chlorine attacking ammonia based contaminants. Algae does not always produce that effect. So CC is ONE factor in passing a SLAM. You have visible algae and rapid FC loss. Follow the SLAM Process

 

[Mdragger88]

It seems as if you are targeting 18ppm fc - that is not a Slam level on the FC/CYA Levels.
There are no inbetweens for the cya test. If the dot disappears between two values you round up & use the corresponding slam fc level.
This is why I suggested earlier that you post your results after your exchange was completed & things were circulated before you began the SLAM Process.
What is your cya?

 

[VinylDelight]

It seems as if you are targeting 18ppm fc - that is not a Slam level on the FC/CYA Levels.
There are no inbetweens for the cya test. If the dot disappears between two values you round up & use the corresponding slam fc level.
This is why I suggested earlier that you post your results after your exchange was completed & things were circulated before you began the SLAM Process.
What is your cya?

You are right, because I was not sure if my CYA was high 30s or mid 40s (I did the CYA test I believe 5 times and basically high 30s twice and mid 40s and I know you round up here... but as a newb I try to err on the "safe" side/mid), I chose the middle because someone said there is overlap while still being in the effective range. If it was 42 and 48 I'd have been just fine, but of course it had to be distinctly on this stepping stone point to further complicate things. Then I looked at the difference of the amount of chlorine and it was only a half gallon so it seemed reasonable, given that someone said there is the overlap. Of course, my pool is green, and my judgment is questionable. lol

 

[Mdragger88]

The rounding up ensures that you are covered & are being the most efficient. Within target ranges there is some overlap but at slam level being consistently a little too low means things drag on. Also the more often you test & dose the faster things will go. Maintaining that slam level as often as possible is key to getting it over sooner rather than later. Aiming for testing & replenishing 3-4x’s a day during the work week is usually doable for most - like upon waking, before leaving, upon arrival after work & before bed etc. often works for people. If you can fit in a lunch break dose - even better! As the fc begins to hold for longer you can go with 2x’s a day. It’s not an overnight process, but you should see improvement each day even if it’s small. Many find it helpful to take a pic in the same spot each day with a pole or something in the water to see the subtle changes in clarity.
Continue to filter, filter, filter- clean/backwash the filter when pressure rises 25% over clean pressure.
Running the robot is good - keep him working!
There are fine filters available for them as well that can help with smaller particulates.
Although robots are great- A manual vac is a basic tool that all pool owners should have in their arsenal even if they don’t use it that often. Right now stuff like that is going on clearance at Walmart so it may be a good time to aquire one.

 

[VinylDelight]

Excellent advice once again, thank you.

For what it's worth, this morning was 16 FC and the CC (I'm really just doing it because it is part of the same process and I know not to base changes around this until my pool clears up) was maybe .5, which is my question: After adding the R-0003 the solution it turned maybe a slightly grey (or very faint cloudy perhaps even might describe it) but absolutely no shade of pink... what would this mean? One drop of R0871 made the sample crystal clear again.

 

[VinylDelight]

Pool shallow end has gotten noticeably cloudy blue over the course of today. That's good news. Will pick up some more chlorine and test tonight.

 

[VinylDelight]

Note to self: An ounce of shock is worth 5 gallons of chlorine...

Next time I think I see algae that pool is getting blasted. Is it normal for pool owners to make late night runs to Walmart for a cart full of chlorine? I felt like Heisenberg or something lol.

 

[Mdragger88]

Note to self: An ounce of shock is worth 5 gallons of chlorine...

Next time I think I see algae that pool is getting blasted. Is it normal for pool owners to make late night runs to Walmart for a cart full of chlorine? I felt like Heisenberg or something lol.

I haven’t bought a powdered/solid chlorine product in years aside from a little dichlor for my hot tub so I am used to the odd looks for my buggy full of liquid chlorine #crazychlorinelady
After the SLAM is complete & algae is eradicated, if you keep fc above minimum for your cya you should never need to shock/ SLAM again barring some extenuating circumstance, aside from closing/opening the pool.
Waiting until you see algae to make a move isn’t really prevention. Testing frequently & ensuring FC is adequate (above min for cya) at all times is.

Shock is an action (raising fc to shock level) - not really a product.
SLAM stands for:
Shock Level And Maintain .
The slam process is just an actual plan to ensure algae is truly eliminated & proving it by meeting 3 criteria before resuming maintenance levels of fc vs throwing in some predetermined amount of chlorine without regard to cya level once or twice & depending solely upon how you feel the water looks to call it good.

 

[VinylDelight]

So the pool has been clearing up for sure, albeit slowly... losing the green but certainly still cloudy blue. The night prior I did the OCLT and came back 0 loss of chlorine from midnight and then again at 9 am. So my question is, given there are no more biologics, can you back off the chlorine at all? I was thinking, if I am merely relying on the slow filter/robot am I done killing off the bacteria and simply trying to clear up debris at this point? It would seem, if that were the case (and it very well may not) then I could simply maintain the healthy or high-normal FC via my in-line chlorinator or keep adding chlorine liquid, just less.

Thank you again, looking forward to one last swim... even if it is frigid.

 

[Bperry]

So the pool has been clearing up for sure, albeit slowly... losing the green but certainly still cloudy blue. The night prior I did the OCLT and came back 0 loss of chlorine from midnight and then again at 9 am. So my question is, given there are no more biologics, can you back off the chlorine at all? I was thinking, if I am merely relying on the slow filter/robot am I done killing off the bacteria and simply trying to clear up debris at this point? It would seem, if that were the case (and it very well may not) then I could simply maintain the healthy or high-normal FC via my in-line chlorinator or keep adding chlorine liquid, just less.

Thank you again, looking forward to one last swim... even if it is frigid.

Keep on it for a few days more and then reevaluate to make sure it wasn’t a fluke.

There are three criteria to passing the SLAM, you got one more to go.