Coping & Tile repair

Envieddesigns

Bronze Supporter
Apr 27, 2021
215
New Jersey
Pool Size
23000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all,
I have some precast cement copings that have a hollow sound when knocking on them and those that sound hollow are the ones that are open at the joints and where the coping meets the top of the tile line in some areas are also opened.
I also have an area of tile to repair where water seemed to be getting between those opened coping joints and caused some tiles to fall off.
Should I just reset all of the copings and the joints or only those that have cracked open?
Does anyone know the type of mortar used to set the copings down?
The coping joints?
What is used for the tiles? Also lastly are we allowed to ask for referrals on here for that type of job? Thank you.
 
I have some precast cement copings that have a hollow sound when knocking on them and those that sound hollow are the ones that are open at the joints and where the coping meets the top of the tile line in some areas are also opened.

Post pics so we know what we are discussing.

I also have an area of tile to repair where water seemed to be getting between those opened coping joints and caused some tiles to fall off.

Water gets into these open areas and during the winter freezes and pops tiles off.

Should I just reset all of the copings and the joints or only those that have cracked open?

Gotta see what we are talking about.

Does anyone know the type of mortar used to set the copings down?
The coping joints?

Type S mortar.

What is used for the tiles?

Pool grade submersible thinset and grout.

Also lastly are we allowed to ask for referrals on here for that type of job?

You can ask for any recommendations by PM.
 
Post pics so we know what we are discussing.



Water gets into these open areas and during the winter freezes and pops tiles off.



Gotta see what we are talking about.



Type S mortar.



Pool grade submersible thinset and grout.



You can ask for any recommendations by PM.
Hi,
The first picture where there are what looks like two calcified lines those two areas from those lines up are hallow. The tiles are bulged out on the bottom line. The top calcified line the tiles had fallen off about 8 across which I had cleaned the area and put them back on you can tell there is no longer a crack where the tiles meet the coping on that area. I used mapei thin set mortar purchased from one of the big box stores. It said it was suitable for pool tiles.
Second photo you can see the opened joints of the copings and the decko seal is over 7 years old. I recently was told it lasts about 4-5?

Third photo you can see the cracks where coping meets tile & the last photo a wide shot of the copings/perimeter of the pool.
So we inherited this pool when we purchased the home 14 yrs ago. 7 years ago we had the plaster & tile re-done. At that time there were maybe 5 copings that were loose which I agreed for them to cut & reset/re-grout. Not knowing much about in-ground pools then I should’ve had all of them reset and done.

I have been seeing this area every year with calcium building up during the winters not knowing much & though my warranty was already over I had once called the company that did the plaster and they said it had to do with my water chemistry an to try some calcium removal products which I did but I never really studied that area to think that coping joints are open an waters getting in until I had put those few tiles back on and started knocking around an saw that it sounded hollow and started doing homework.
 

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The cracks between coping stones and at the coping tile interface are normal maintenance stuff for our area. The winter freeze/thaws and temperature variations, and ground movement cause cracks.

The joints between the coping stones are type S mortar. Small cracks youc an try and put some grout in every season.

And use grout between the tile and coping stone cracks. Scrape out loose grout with a grout saw first.

The pool expansion joint needs to me replaced periodically.

If you maintain those lines then you keep water away from the back of your tile and prevent tiles from popping off. It helps to use good quality thinset like from Laticrete.
 
The cracks between coping stones and at the coping tile interface are normal maintenance stuff for our area. The winter freeze/thaws and temperature variations, and ground movement cause cracks.

The joints between the coping stones are type S mortar. Small cracks youc an try and put some grout in every season.

And use grout between the tile and coping stone cracks. Scrape out loose grout with a grout saw first.

The pool expansion joint needs to me replaced periodically.

If you maintain those lines then you keep water away from the back of your tile and prevent tiles from popping off. It helps to use good quality thinset like from Laticrete.
Thanks, is the expansion joint something one can do on their own is it something difficult and if so what product is used for it?

We have someone who quoted us $4100 to replace the decko seal joint, lift an reset/re-grout all the coping stones and repair the one area where the tiles bulged.
 
Thanks, is the expansion joint something one can do on their own is it something difficult and if so what product is used for it?

It is a back breaking job to scrape out all the old sealant and prepare the joint for new stuff. Folks have done it. If you are young and have good knee pads. Use an oscillating tool to clean out the joint.


We have someone who quoted us $4100 to replace the decko seal joint, lift an reset/re-grout all the coping stones and repair the one area where the tiles bulged.

I have heard $10/foot quoted to replace the expansion joint. $4,100 may be a decent price for all you listed.
 
It is a back breaking job to scrape out all the old sealant and prepare the joint for new stuff. Folks have done it. If you are young and have good knee pads. Use an oscillating tool to clean out the joint.




I have heard $10/foot quoted to replace the expansion joint. $4,100 may be a decent price for all you listed.
Thank you appreciate your time and info. Wish I found this site a few years back. I have two skimmers one of which the weir door is missing it’s foam backing to keep it afloat, I’ll DIY that And the other skimmer weir door is completely off/missing so I ordered a universal replacement & Ordered my water test kit. I’m excited to get the pool started this season & see if I notice a difference.
 
Good evening to all,
So the work finally began on the coping, all joints cut out and loose copings removed and reset yesterday. Today I did a walk around the pool checking them and I noticed that some of the cement/mortar had seeped from some of the copings an looks to be touching the cement deck I know that gap is there for the decko seal but in some areas in photos here you can see mortar touch the deck is this going to be an issue should those pieces be chipped away ?
 

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The mortar should be removed so the expansion joint is not coupled between the pool and deck.
 

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Good afternoon all,
The work is done finally on our pool and of course the day they do the vulkem seal around the pool it began to drizzle right after. Anyhow I told them they’d have to come back to refill in areas that have sunken in. Also is it normal that the edge of the seal to the deck is wavy and not a straight uniform line? My wife’s not happy with it and that too they didn’t get all of the old grey seal off completely but that stuff is impossible to get off completely. I guess since we went with a different color it’s more noticeable as well.
 

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