Converting to Salt

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Kurtomac said:
I saw it the comments of some YouTube videos of seal replacements actually. I think it was for whisperflo units though and they provided part numbers for the seal for salt and the regular seal.
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Good, because you will not find that posted here at TFP.

You think maybe the folks posting that video sells some super special seal they want you to buy?

All the major pool equipment manufacturers sell pumps and SWG's and ensure they are compatible.
 
Kurtomac said:
Great, thanks. Any idea of what I should set the max safe RPM to for backwash and prime being I only have 1.5” plumbing to the pool. Should I do all 2” above ground or leave it since it necks down anyway
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Please create your signature with details of your pool and equipment so we can give you specific advice.

Any RPM will be "safe".

2" plumbing is nice to have if you are redoing the entire pool pad. I doubt you will see any difference between 1 1/2" plumbing or 2" plumbing.
 
Kurt,

I have a couple of rent houses that have 1.5" plumbing and 3 HP IntelliFlo pumps and IntelliChlor IC40s.. I found it easier for me to make everything above ground 2" when it came time to replumb. Of course I did not find that out until I plumbed the other one with some 1.5" and some 2" plumbing.. They both work fine and I can't tell any operational difference between the two pools. The only difference was the uniform 2" above ground just made my plumbing job simpler.

Even if you run the pump at full speed it is not going to blow your plumbing up.. That said, I'd run the backwash at 2800 RPM.. Actually, I never backwash any more. I run my VS pump at about 1200 RPM most of the time, so my filter pressure is less than 5 lbs most of the time. This allows me to just break the filters down twice a year and clean them.. I can hardly wait for them to die, so that I can replace them with large cartridge filters. No more DE, no more hard to turn, or leaking, multiport valves, and dirt simple plumbing.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
ajw22 said:
Good, because you will not find that posted here at TFP.

You think maybe the folks posting that video sells some super special seal they want you to buy?

All the major pool equipment manufacturers sell pumps and SWG's and ensure they are compatible.
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Can you see my sig now? I thought I had it right before but I didn’t see the sig link under the about me section
 
Kurtomac said:
...One of those is a dedicated vacuum line that I don’t use. Should I just cap that one off?
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ajw22 said:
I hate to cap it off and have stale water sitting in the pipe. You can plumb it into the return side and make it another return.
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I've seen a few people use an old (vac) line for the feed line for a water feature... like a fountain thingy.. just an idea?⛲
 
I was installing the new pump and RJ60+ today. Got the suction side done but had a question...can I mount the salt cell horizontal, vertical or diagonal ? I’m gonna end with an angle or just 90s at some point of my return lines to the 3 way diverter/return pipes
 
ajw22 said:
The cell can be mounted in any orientation. Mount the flow switch on a horizontal run.

See page 16 for proper positioning of the flow switch...

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This is from the manual which tell me the swith can go vertically also.
 When positioning the Flow Switch, ensure at least 6 to 12” (30cm) of
straight pipe before the Flow Switch. If installed after the Electrolytic
Cell, the Cell provides this space. The raised arrow on the black plastic
hex-top must be pointed with the direction of water flow as it returns
to the pool.If installed horizontally , ensure that the wire-side faces
upwards.
 

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A flow switch should not be installed vertically with the water flowing up since if the spring in the switch fails gravity will keep the switch ON. That’s why I say it is best to install a flow switch horizontal.
 
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Kurtomac said:
Does the SWG turn on and off on its own when it senses flow or do I wire it in with the pump some how?
Any other items I might need?
Any suggestions on other models in a similar price range that would be better?
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K,

I just read through this post and looks like you've gotten all your questions answered. It's amazing how much hype is out there but our experts have taken care of that in their responses. I'll just add that I installed a Circupool RJ 30+ a year ago and I'm thrilled with the performance and customer support. That said I'd never rely on their flow control valve to shut done with no flow. Consequences of single failure are just to severe. I've recently inspected the cell and it looks brand new. My guess is this would be the case regardless of brand because I watch the chemistry balance closely. I'm within TFP recommendations virtually 100% of the time. This allows me to keep CSI -.3 to 0 all the time and most of the time closer to 0 but slightly negative. I also added borates and I run pH higher in the range which helps me control with less frequent MA addition. Be sure to get your K-1766 salt test kit if you haven't already done so and test your water before you add salt. You'll probably have close to 1000 ppm already if your pool is a few years old. Use any salt that has no additives. Many people use water softener salt, I paid a few extra $ for Morton's Pool Salt (finer granules so dissolves in minutes).

Living in Florida we swim almost every day and we love our salt pool!

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
 
Thanks for all the replies. I’m replacing my exterior sub panel as my other one looked a little torched inside and had a question about voltage. Do these run better when wired as set from the factory at 240v or do they run the same when wired for 120v? Reason I ask is the sub panel I bought had 4 spaces and I need 5 spaces if I’m going to run the pump at 240, my timer/SWG at 240, and an 120v outlet near my pump which also feeds my pool light. If I convert it to 120 I can get away my 4 space panel with one 2-pole 20amp breaker for my pump, and two single pole 120v 20amp breakers for the other items.

This subpanel was previously only fed with 240v/20amp power. Now I doubt that when running my Intelliflo at half speed, my timer feeding my SWG, and that pool light/outlet box that I’ll even reach 20amps but while I’m at it I’m going to install a new breaker in my main panel to feed this new sub panel and fish some new wires. Would 30amp 240v be plenty for this sub panel considering what is being run?

I wish this was all done right from the original install...
 
Kurtomac said:
If I had my Intelliflo wide open and the SWG going I bet I would be close to 20amps. I reckon I should feed at least 30amp/240 to the panel to account for that outlet/pool light
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Look at the data plate on your pump. I would expect at 240V it pulls around 8 amps. Your SWG is 2 amps. I don't know what type of lights you have.

You don't have to bet. Just get the data to do a proper load analysis. I think 20 amps should be ok but note that a circuit should only be loaded to 80% of breaker size. So 16 amps is your limit.
 

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