Converting to Salt

Allen knows the codes so he's best to advise on wire size and amperage. Sounds like you're probably OK but make sure he knows your wire size.
 
The only pool salt we warn folks about is Clorox brand. We get many reports of staining from that salt (iron).

I use water softener pellets when I need to add salt. Plain.
 
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I use Morton’s Pool Salt that I find at Walmart for around $6.50/40lb bag. Diamond Crystal is also good. As Marty said don’t settle for Clorox Pool Salt.
 
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Thanks for the replies!
Looking at my timer and didn’t see a spot to wire a ground...what gives. Do I just wire nut the ground from the circupool and the ground from the sub panel together? Check out these few pics 3E27C6DA-FD5E-4A60-8758-51A1AB344B8E.jpegEB9811AD-6B00-4EA0-A174-715F525D0CB6.jpegEDF1141D-D768-4BA6-A6F8-943F928E10F9.jpeg
 
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I should have asked this yesterday. Should my new 30amp breaker from my main panel feeding this sub panel be GFCI thus making this whole panel GFCI protected?
That's one way to do it then every circuit after it is GFCI protected. The problem arises when something trips the GFCI everything goes down and it'll be hard to find the issue unless you start disconnecting individual circuits. If the individual circuits have their own GFCI breakers it'll isolate itself to that one circuit.
 
I’ll have 3 circuits in this panel. One for the pump, one for the timer/SWG, and one powers an outlet/pool light (the exterior outlet is GFCI) should I take back the two double pole 20amp breakers for the sub panel and exchange for GFCI? These would be for the pump and for the timer/swg
 
I’ll have 3 circuits in this panel. One for the pump, one for the timer/SWG, and one powers an outlet/pool light (the exterior outlet is GFCI) should I take back the two double pole 20amp breakers for the sub panel and exchange for GFCI? These would be for the pump and for the timer/swg
You only need it for the pump and timer SWCG. The outlet you say is a GFCI by itself so just leave that one alone. That means you need only 2.
 
You only need it for the pump and timer SWCG. The outlet you say is a GFCI by itself so just leave that one alone. That means you need only 2.

You are contradicting what you said in post #52.

Better to have each device on its own GFCI CB if there is panel space for that. I have lost track of how much panel space the OP has.
 
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You are contradicting what you said in post #52.

Better to have each device on its own GFCI CB if there is panel space for that. I have lost track of how much panel space the OP has.
Let me clarify, 1 for the pump and 1 for the SWG timer and the outlet has a built in GFCI so that can utilize a normal circuit breaker. See #53
 
Slowing coming along...
Picked up 640lbs of Morton Pool Salt today. Will test salinity before I dump but I wanted to get my system running first.

Ran my M400 today 3 times with screen filters to pull out most of the bulk winter grime and will run again tomorrow with fine filters
I need to installed ladder and stair railing and water jets tomorrow while I finish my return side.

Today we ran new 10ga wire from main panel to the new sub panel and installed 30amp breaker in main panel. Mounted and wired main panel, mounted and ran conduit to timer box and wire from sub panel to pump.
We finished suction side last week. Tomorrow I’ll get the salt cell and flow switch installed and 3 way diverter valve as I took your guys advice to change one suction line to a return line.

I did have a question about GFCI breakers. My pump has 2 hots and a ground. The GFCI has the coiled neutral to go to the neutral bar plus the normal two hots and a spot near the hot leads for a neutral. With my pump not having a neutral line to plug into this do I even benefit from the 20amp 240v 2 pole GFCI that were kind of expensive.

pool was not green upon cover removal

Temp was 65 today
PH was like 7.2 chlorine was an obvious 0.
Was gonna test for salt tomorrow and get it up and running Sunday at which point I’ll add some salt and stabilized shock to bump chlorine and CYA (I closed the season around 60 and with all the draining through the winter I’m sure it’s lower) I imagine I’ll have to add some baking soda to raise PH. I will also check my TA tomorrow. Busy day today for sure.

Any ideas for the return line? I was gonna run an elbow off that other line down low and run on the other side of the manifold and then up to the 3 way diverter valve at which it will convert to 2” from the 1.5”. Then off the inlet side of that 3 way valve will be my salt cell then an elbow followed by the flow switch back to next elbow running into Union and into multi valve that I’ve already replaced.
 

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Just got done gluing it all together. Need to ground the pump, ground the circupool, put the pressure guage in, and pop the wires in the Intelliflo.

Looking for some feedback from the pros on my plumbing layout. I had 4 suction lines before and I converted one to a return line. All new pipes from the ground up. I had 1.5” at the ground so I did what I could to make the transition. I wish I would have looked into a multivalve with 2” ports as I had to step it down to 1.5” there. The multivalve was installed with this project along with all new plumbing, new sub panel, and new timer box. I have the dummy pipe in place of my salt cell until I get everything running and salinity right

Hope I did ok. Curious to your guys thoughts. I tossed in a before pic as well969EA27B-DB3D-4379-B7CD-7883B997CBDD.jpeg7590929F-F5B1-4741-AA0F-E81388226A22.jpeg
 

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