Converting back to SWG

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S

StonkyMcStonksky

Active member
Jun 4, 2024
27
Rochester, MN
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
The house we bought in southern Minnesota has an in-ground vinyl chlorine pool that was originally a SWG pool, but they didn’t want to pay to replace the salt cell (IC20) so they cut the power cord and converted to chlorine.
I’d like to go back to SWG, as I travel 3-4 days at a time for work and want a system I only need to check once a week vs more regular like our current setup needs. It’s a 20,000 gallon pool that currently has a high CYA of around 100, higher phosphates seeing 300, and high alkalinity around 200.
I knew nothing of pools before buying the house. From what I’ve gathered, an IC40 cell would be better for our size pool, but reading the manual it seems as though I need my CYA to come down to 30-50.
Swapping the water isn’t a problem, but my question really is what else should I be looking for to make sure I’m ok? The power center is there, so I’m thinking I can just throw the IC40 in, plug it into the power center, add my salt to the pool, and be off to the races.

Please let me know.
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Converting back to the SWG shouldn't be a problem. The hard part (plumbing) is already done, so simply swap out the equipment. Test/add salt as required and you're good.

Now the CYA is high if you tested it properly with a TF-100, TF-Pro Series, or Taylor K-2006C. If you didn't, then than must be step #1. No test strips or local (free) testing. Once you confirm your true CYA, then yes, exchange water, but only lower the CYA down to 60-70. SWG cells work better with a slightly elevated CYA level. Also, be sure to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to ensure there are no excessive organics in the water you can't see. That's very important.

Phosphates are generally not a concern here at TFP nor something we typically test for except perhaps in some unique situations. Not common at all. That's a pool store's concern to try and sell you Pho-Free. TA is always high in your area and you can worry about that later with future treatments of muriatic acid to control both the pH and TA. The priority right now is accurate water testing and exchange some water to lower the CYA to about 60-70.

After than let the SWG do its thing. Hope that helps.

Also see ------- > Pool Care Basics
 
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I highly recommend the TF-type test kits, but the article below may help.

www.troublefreepool.com

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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StonkyMcStonksky said:
I need my CYA to come down to 30-50.
Click to expand...
S,

Just to be clear... We recommend that saltwater pools have a CYA of about 70 ppm..

What is your CYA now?

One thing that all saltwater pool owners need is the ability to test the 'actual' salt level in the pool vs. the 'reported' salt level from the cell.. You need to know both numbers to make sure that the cell is working properly, and that you don't add too much salt.

Also... Do not initially add any salt until you know the salt level in your water now.. It may be much higher than you think.

A 20K pool should have a 40K cell... In your location a 20K cell would work, but you'd have to run it for a long time and at a high output. With a single speed pump, you for sure want the IC40.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Texas Splash said:
I highly recommend the TF-type test kits, but the article below may help.

www.troublefreepool.com

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
I have a TF-Pro kit coming today that I bought before I got frustrated with my current pool situation and decided to go SWG. What’s the difference between the TF-Pro and the salt version?

Here’s my current pool after A couple of days of lots of rain that almost flooded my pool because the cover was stuck open. It was crystal clear before hand. I’m going to start another thread for that.
 

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Jimrahbe said:
S,

Just to be clear... We recommend that saltwater pools have a CYA of about 70 ppm..

What is your CYA now?

One thing that all saltwater pool owners need is the ability to test the 'actual' salt level in the pool vs. the 'reported' salt level from the cell.. You need to know both numbers to make sure that the cell is working properly, and that you don't add too much salt.

Also... Do not initially add any salt until you know the salt level in your water now.. It may be much higher than you think.

A 20K pool should have a 40K cell... In your location a 20K cell would work, but you'd have to run it for a long time and at a high output. With a single speed pump, you for sure want the IC40.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
My numbers as of yesterday from a pool store test (I’m trying to SLAM):

TDS: 1200
pH: 7.3 (currently airating with return pointed up)
alkalinity: 200
Calcium hardness: 183
Optimizer (what’s this): 2
FC: 13.2
TC: 14.8 (is my CC 1.6??, they didn’t test for that)
CYA: 97
Phosphate: 300
 
StonkyMcStonksky said:
My numbers as of yesterday from a pool store test (I’m trying to SLAM):

Optimizer (what’s this): 2
Click to expand...
Borates - this is an optional thing that has been addressed by TFP as being potentially helpful and generally not harmful.

Don't worry at all about Borates until you're well beyond your slam, your SWG is making maintaining the pool boring and then you can read up on it if you even think about it.
 
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S,

Doing a SLAM with a CYA of 100 and without a Test Kit is pretty hard to do.. :(

Since you said replacing the water would not be an issue, I would suggest that you drain half the water and get your CYA down to 50 or lower and then start the SLAM once you get your TF-Pro.

Are you currently using supermarket bleach? If not, what is causing all the foam?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
S,

Doing a SLAM with a CYA of 100 and without a Test Kit is pretty hard to do.. :(

Since you said replacing the water would not be an issue, I would suggest that you drain half the water and get your CYA down to 50 or lower and then start the SLAM once you get your TF-Pro.

Are you currently using supermarket bleach? If not, what is causing all the foam?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

This is the liquid chlorine I’m using: https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/on...4-pk/0000000221388?bc=10708|10800|10801|10803

I dont know what’s causing the foam. It started after heavy rains and before I added any chlorine.
 
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bobloblaw42 said:
Borates - this is an optional thing that has been addressed by TFP as being potentially helpful and generally not harmful.

Don't worry at all about Borates until you're well beyond your slam, your SWG is making maintaining the pool boring and then you can read up on it if you even think about it.
Click to expand...


My pool was converted to Chlorine, and the SWG is not working. I put that in the sig, and have it there because I want to convert it back.
 

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