Conversion Costs/ Potential Benefits

[jark87]

As Newdude states, test your water for salt. You can get a Taylor K-1766 test kit for around $25. You can try to have your water tested at a pool store, but their results can vary. The Leslies near my house actually has pretty accurate tests, but only since they switched systems in the past couple of years. Just don’t pay much attention to their recommendations of chemicals.

Once you know your current salt level, the Pool Math app on this site will calculate how many pounds of salt would be needed to reach your level. SWCGs typically want at least 3000 ppm, but if you’re just going for feel, you could start at 1500-2000.

There’s no real downside to adding salt. You’ll hear people say it’s corrosive, but it’s not any more corrosive than a pool maintained with liquid chlorine. As a point of comparison, ocean water is 34,000 ppm.

 

[Mdragger88]

Don't do it. Ignoring the upfront cost, you will spend more on Muriatic and Cyanuric Acids and salt than you ever will spend on chlorine tablets, and it's more work. I regret that I converted my pool, and once the cell wears out I won't replace it.

Really? Do u have a leak?
I fully winterize every year so i drain about a foot of water & i still only spend about $30 on stabilizer & maybe $25 on salt a year. I never need to add acid as my ph is quite stable so that’s really not a cost i incur.

 

[Mdragger88]

I did a quick little breakdown for myself in this post since I haven’t seen one recently @ current prices

SWG costs

You piqued my curiosity. Last spring, with chlorine near impossible to find, I was very grateful for my SWG. But the poor thing was 5 years old and decided to retire. My first Intex SWG was around $100, but I wanted to go a bit bigger. Actually, I wanted to go commercial grade (in advance of...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Chuckiechan]

From where I sit, having a pool costs money anyway so it is a trade off of convenience vs cost. I happen to enjoy the challenge of keeping up my pool, and I totally do not miss schlepping a 4 gallon crate of chlorine from the trunk of my car into my back yard, not to mention dumping in a 1/2 gallon every other day and facing a green crisis if I get lazy. I have never had to shock or SLAM.

With an SWG, you put in the work at opening just like any other pool, getting your numbers right. Then other than some acid now and then to counter the SGW driving your alkalinity up, it takes care of itself. I’ll bet I don’t use much more than a gallon a month of 31% muriatic acid.
Easy, peasy, if you pay attention and test your Ph often.

 

[mknauss]

counter the SGW driving your alkalinity up,

SWCG doe not effect alkalinity -- just for the record.

 

[JPMorgan]

So.... I'm still not sure... how do I add salt to the pool to get the level up to 2000-3000 ppm and how do you test for the salt level? I understand that LC will add salt to the pool over time as it is added to the pool, but if I want to get the "salt water feel" immediately what is the best way to add salt to the pool.

 

[Newdude]

Get a k-1766 Taylor salt test. Tftestkits.net has them, or Amazon, etc.

test to see your start point. I advised somebody to check 2 weeks ago and was at 600 on a fresh fill after replastering. The longer it goes without draining, the higher the # generally.

Once you know your starting point, target 2k in pool math. Home Depot has salt bags in the pool aisle and the plumbing aisle next to the hot water heaters. The water softener salt has bigger chunks and is about $2 cheaper a bag. It takes 15 while more minutes to harmlessly dissolve. Make sure whatever bag you get says *Pure* or *100%*. No additives also works. Toss them in the pool and you are good to go.

Normally we aim low and creep up to the target but your target is 1k+ lower. If you overshoot by 500 ppm you still won’t taste it and it won’t hurt anything.