Contract Feedback and Pipe Insulation Suggestions - Edmond OK

[creativename5]

Hi all, I've been lurking on this forum for a couple years and I think now I am finally underway on a pool build. I'm under contract with Leisure factory direct and I've specified equipment based off what I've here, but still would like feedback on my proposed system. The pool will be a fiberglass pool by Leisure, the Elegance 33' model:



For equipment, this is what I have spec'd. Let me know if anything stands out as way off base:

1 skimmer
3 returns (plus 4 spa jets in the "Spa Nook"-this was an option I added)
2 Main Drains
All plumbing = 2" Rigid PVC (I had them upgrade from flex/rigid combination)
200 sqft Hayward Cartridge Filter
2.0 hp Hayward VS Pump (not sure of the exact model number, but I explicitly told them to be sure it works with the Omnilogic Automation system)
25k Hayward SWG
Hayward 250 kBTU Natural Gas Heater
2 Hayward Multicolor LED lights (to be compatible with Omnilogic system)
Hayward OmniLogic automation system
*I already have a Taylor 2006C test kit that I am using to test the water of our temporary 15' kiddie pool for practice.

The pool will be installed by Leisure Factory direct installers, and that arrangement is structured such that I am responsible for the concrete. I've used a demo of Pool Studio to show my plan for decking. The yard slopes down probably ~16" from the patio side of the pool to the other side of the pool. It's a small back yard and we have 3 dogs, so I don't want the decking to take away all of the grass areas. We want to keep the design on the simple, modern and elegant side. We could potentially add a waterfall on the deep end, so Leisure will run a 2" capped return there for future use.



So any feedback regarding any aspects of my plan would be appreciated.

What is the best way to insulate the lines to reduce heat loss when I'm running the heater? I had thought about something like using foam packing peanuts in the trench to insulate the whole system without having to wrap each individual line, but I'm not sure if they would get compressed to the point of becoming ineffective when backfilled. They may also be a mess if I ever have to dig them up. Any thoughts or recommendations for an easier way to insulate without having to do each line individually?

Thanks for your help.
Eric

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

For your size pool in your climate I would suggest going to a 40K rated SWCG.

No need to use additional insulation around buried pipes. It does not do you much good anyway. The earth is a decent insulator. The key to using a heater is to always use a cover on the pool.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

 

[kimkats]

I would like to see a pic of the area this pool is going. That will be the most helpful.

Also make sure to get all model numbers in writing....they might "forget" what you said so.........

Kim

 

[creativename5]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

For your size pool in your climate I would suggest going to a 40K rated SWCG.

No need to use additional insulation around buried pipes. It does not do you much good anyway. The earth is a decent insulator. The key to using a heater is to always use a cover on the pool.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

Thanks for the info. I had read somewhere on this forum that insulating the lines was very important for heat loss, but I think that guy was in Canada so maybe it's not as big of a deal here. Regarding covers: is there anything I need to consider in the concrete phase like anchor points or similar? I'd like a cover for safety (infant son) and for heat loss.

 

[mknauss]

The best cover for safety is an auto cover. It is permanently installed and has guides along the edge of the pool. They are pricey.

They do make safety nets. I am not versed on those.

For heat retention a simple, cheap solar cover works just fine. No matter how thick or costly they are they last at most 2 or 3 seasons.

 

[djust]

Someone else from Edmond waiting on a start date

 

[Dirk]

I would specify the location of the lights and skimmer, and not leave that to the "there for one day" crew. IMO, the lights should be on the house side of the pool, shining away from it. Personally, I don't like to see light bulbs, just their light. The skimmer should be placed on the downwind side of the pool. The PB should know this, but ya never know, it can get overlooked. Does your area have a prevailing wind, or is it different from day to day, or month to month? If there is a prevailing wind, your skimmer can be located to take advantage of that. Weather websites can be a source for this info. Or do you notice leaves and debris end up on one side of your yard more than another? That's the side of the pool the skimmer should be on. Or throw a beach ball out into your yard. Observe where it ends up each day for a while.

Was there any talk of an autofill system? Or overflow system? Very nice to have each, though not always necessary depending on your climate.

What about a cleaning system? Pressure port? Suction port? Many here will recommend a cleaning robot, which doesn't require any specialized port, but if it were my pool I'd still plumb in a port, just to have it should I later decide I need one. My pressure port was converted to a suction port after the pool was built, so it's possible to run one line and have the option of either type of port.

We were just discussing in another thread the need for an aerator, to cool off the pool. How hot does it get there? You can hook up an aerator to a return, but they don't always get the pressure they need like that. A dedicated line for an aerator is a nicety. Again, depends on your climate.

There is a case to be made for spec'ing each return, skimmer and drain be run back to the pad independently, valved so that each can be set independently. Sometimes drains are plumbed to the skimmer, sometimes returns are all on the same pipe, both of which offer less control for balancing circulation. Something to think about and discuss with your PB.

Before the deck goes down, now's the time to think about running extra lines under it. Power for electrical outlets, water for irrigation or hose bibs, gas lines for BBQs, heaters or tiki torches, etc. Same principle as running that PVC line for the cleaning system: once the deck goes down, what'cha got is what'cha got.

That'll keep you busy for a bit...