Complete Newbie 3400 Gallon Bestway Pool

Mozza

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2020
32
United Arab Emirates
Hi

I have just set up my Bestway 3.66 metre by 1.22 metre above ground pool (3400 gallons/12840 litres).

I have not filled it yet. I haven't bought any chemicals, testing kit etc. so I would appreciate some help in suggesting what I should buy (and what quantities) before I fill it.

I have seen the calculator on this site but I would like to have all the chemical stuff ready to go before I fill it and test it. The problem is that we have lockdown here and it takes me several days to be able to buy chlorine etc. and have it delivered. I don't want to fill it and leave it sitting there in this heat, waiting for the chemicals to arrive.

Some side information is that I live in the desert in the UAE. The temp at the moment during the day is 42-46 degrees celsius (108F+). The pool is undercover and is only in the sun in the morning for a couple of hours.

Thanks in advance for any assistance. Much appreciated.

Michael
 
Hello Michael and welcome to TFP! :wave: With your size pool, I would use the link below to manage your water. It's much more convenient. Between that link, the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, and the Vital Links in my signature, you should do quite well. But let us know if you have questions.

 
Hello Michael and welcome to TFP! :wave: With your size pool, I would use the link below to manage your water. It's much more convenient. Between that link, the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, and the Vital Links in my signature, you should do quite well. But let us know if you have questions.

Thanks a lot Texas Splash. Will check those links out. Much appreciated.
 
Hello Michael and welcome to TFP! :wave: With your size pool, I would use the link below to manage your water. It's much more convenient. Between that link, the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, and the Vital Links in my signature, you should do quite well. But let us know if you have questions.

Hi Texas Splash and Mknauss

Is the Clorox bleach in this picture suitable for my pool? Thanks. 1592725075672.png
 
Hello Michael and welcome to TFP! :wave: With your size pool, I would use the link below to manage your water. It's much more convenient. Between that link, the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, and the Vital Links in my signature, you should do quite well. But let us know if you have questions.

Hi. Hope you don't mind me sending multiple questions. Can I ask two more things?

1. Our pool is in complete shade, except for about two hours per day. I have a cover on it for these two hours. I was wondering therefore if I still need to add pool stabilizer (cyanuric acid). From my understanding, it is only the UV rays that break down the chlorine. Is that correct?

2. It is very hot here, about 110 degrees F during the day, but am I correct in thinking it is only the UV rays and not the heat that degrades the chlorine?

Thanks again.
 
Hello Michael and welcome to TFP! :wave: With your size pool, I would use the link below to manage your water. It's much more convenient. Between that link, the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, and the Vital Links in my signature, you should do quite well. But let us know if you have questions.

Hi Again

So having read through the guide, I have a couple of follow up questions, if I may.
1.
1592736920993.png
2.
1592736991177.png

Thanks as always.

Michael
 

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Hello! If possible, I would avoid the Clorox brand bleach and try to find another regular/plain. bleach because a few years ago Clorox started to add fabric polymers which seem to interfere with pool water chemistry. As for the stabilizer, every pool needs some to ensure the chlorine is buffered and swimmers protected from its strength. Since the pool is covered and/or in shade most of the time, you can try a CYA ro 30 and balance the FC to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. As long as you do not lose more than 4 ppm of FC in 24 hours, you should be fine. Note: You should still pull the cover back or let the water receive some exposure to the sun each day to oxidize the CC in the water. Basically get rid of the bad junk processed by the chlorine. For adjusting the pH or any other chemical, please see the link in my signature called TFP Chemicals. Under each item it tells you what can be used and how to and it. Because your pool is small, there is generally no need to have the larger kit like the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, although you certainly can have it if you wish. We say that because in those small pools, people might just do a quick water exchange and start over. But new water has no CYA, so once you add the required amount per the PoolMath APP, you should expect the CYA to be at that point until you change the water again. But if you get a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit, of course you can test the CYA at any time you wish.
 
Hello! If possible, I would avoid the Clorox brand bleach and try to find another regular/plain. bleach because a few years ago Clorox started to add fabric polymers which seem to interfere with pool water chemistry. As for the stabilizer, every pool needs some to ensure the chlorine is buffered and swimmers protected from its strength. Since the pool is covered and/or in shade most of the time, you can try a CYA ro 30 and balance the FC to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. As long as you do not lose more than 4 ppm of FC in 24 hours, you should be fine. Note: You should still pull the cover back or let the water receive some exposure to the sun each day to oxidize the CC in the water. Basically get rid of the bad junk processed by the chlorine. For adjusting the pH or any other chemical, please see the link in my signature called TFP Chemicals. Under each item it tells you what can be used and how to and it. Because your pool is small, there is generally no need to have the larger kit like the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, although you certainly can have it if you wish. We say that because in those small pools, people might just do a quick water exchange and start over. But new water has no CYA, so once you add the required amount per the PoolMath APP, you should expect the CYA to be at that point until you change the water again. But if you get a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit, of course you can test the CYA at any time you wish.

Thanks Texas Splash. Really appreciate you taking the time to answer the questions. Fantastic info. I'll follow up on this and get what I need. One last question. Does this bleach look okay?

1592754154016.png

Have a great day!
 

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I can't quite see the label, and for some reason it doesn't show on my Amazon search here in the US, but as long as the main ingredient is Sodium Hypochlorite (either 6, 8.5, or 10%) it should be okay. Make sure the bottle does not say anything about fabric softeners or enhancers, and is not splashless or scented. Good luck!
 
I can't quite see the label, and for some reason it doesn't show on my Amazon search here in the US, but as long as the main ingredient is Sodium Hypochlorite (either 6, 8.5, or 10%) it should be okay. Make sure the bottle does not say anything about fabric softeners or enhancers, and is not splashless or scented. Good luck!

Hi Texas Splash

After a lot research, it is proving very difficult to buy both plain bleach and CYA in this country. The pool supply shops don't seem to stock CYA. I guess it is so they can suggest the products below as an more expensive alternative. This is one of the suggestions I have been given. They suggest the following:

1. One to two chlorine tablets per week via the floater
2. One CleanPoolTab tablet per week
3. One capful of Algibon per week

If indeed, I cannot get bleach and CYA, would this be a suitable alternative?

Thanks

Michael
 
Hi Texas Splash

After a lot research, it is proving very difficult to buy both plain bleach and CYA in this country. The pool supply shops don't seem to stock CYA. I guess it is so they can suggest the products below as an more expensive alternative. This is one of the suggestions I have been given. They suggest the following:

1. One to two chlorine tablets per week via the floater
2. One CleanPoolTab tablet per week
3. One capful of Algibon per week

If indeed, I cannot get bleach and CYA, would this be a suitable alternative?

Thanks

Michael

Sorry, I should have added that CleanpoolTab is a clarifier and Algibon is an algaecide, although I guess you already know this.
 

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Sadly, that regimen is standard pool store methods. You will always have algae. It will be kept at bay with the algaecide but not completely gone. The clarifier will clear the water but the algae remains. The trichlor tablets will attempt to keep the water sanitary, but the CYA will rise continuously with the constant addition of the tablets. Once the CYA hits a certain level, the chlorine will no longer work, the algaecide will be overwhelmed, you will be told you have chlorine lock, and to drain the pool.

If you cannot find bleach at all, you have few choices. What about cal hypo? You would still have to drain water occasionally but could follow the TFPC principals. You would use trichlor or dichlor to raise the CYA and then switch to only cal hypo. The water would be far more pleasant to be in.
 
Sadly, that regimen is standard pool store methods. You will always have algae. It will be kept at bay with the algaecide but not completely gone. The clarifier will clear the water but the algae remains. The trichlor tablets will attempt to keep the water sanitary, but the CYA will rise continuously with the constant addition of the tablets. Once the CYA hits a certain level, the chlorine will no longer work, the algaecide will be overwhelmed, you will be told you have chlorine lock, and to drain the pool.

If you cannot find bleach at all, you have few choices. What about cal hypo? You would still have to drain water occasionally but could follow the TFPC principals. You would use trichlor or dichlor to raise the CYA and then switch to only cal hypo. The water would be far more pleasant to be in.

Thanks Mknauss. Very useful info. Much appreciated. So if I understand you correctly, use the chlorine tables to get the pool CYA up to around 30, then stop using them and switch over to cal hypo. I found this product available here, so I assume this would be okay: Calcium Hypochlorite Granuels 25 Kg | DUBI CHEM
 
Correct. Your CH will go up. It would be nice to find some way to test CH, even if the pool store could do it. When it gets to 500 ppm or so, dump half the water and start again.

I would say you could dissolve one Trichlor tablet about every 6 weeks to keep you CYA up to 30 - 40 ppm. At elevated water temperatures (I assume this pool will be out doors and thus water will be 30C or higher) the CYA will degrade a bit over time.
 
Correct. Your CH will go up. It would be nice to find some way to test CH, even if the pool store could do it. When it gets to 500 ppm or so, dump half the water and start again.

I would say you could dissolve one Trichlor tablet about every 6 weeks to keep you CYA up to 30 - 40 ppm. At elevated water temperatures (I assume this pool will be out doors and thus water will be 30C or higher) the CYA will degrade a bit over time.
Hi Mknauss. So can I clarify three points?

1. Once I fill the pool, to get it to 30 ppm initially, are you saying I would only need one Trichlor tablet? Or will it require more than one initially, and then just one every 6 weeks or so to maintain CYA at 30-40 ppm?

2. If it is more than one, would you have any idea how many Trichlor tablets (3 inch) it would take to get the CYA up to around 30-40 ppm? The tests I can find here only test for Ph and Chlorine levels. The closest pool shop is 150 km away.

2. You mention when it gets to 500 ppm, dump half the water. Do you mean if I keep using Trichor tablets on their own, this will happen? If I switch to using cal hypo, I assume the CYA levels will stay relatively stable. Is this correct?
 
Use 4 Trichlor tablets to start. That will add just under 40 ppm CYA into your pool water volume of 3400 gallons. I would only add one at a time and when nearly dissolved, add another.

When the CH (Calcium Hardness) gets to 500 ppm. That is from Cal Hypo. If you cannot test for that, keep track of how much Cal Hypo you use. Then Poolmath can tell you how much calcium that has added to your water volume.

The CYA will stay relatively stable. The one tablet every 6 weeks is to account for natural degradation. If you drain any water, then use a tablet per 1000 gallons you replace to add back the CYA.
 
Use 4 Trichlor tablets to start. That will add just under 40 ppm CYA into your pool water volume of 3400 gallons. I would only add one at a time and when nearly dissolved, add another.

When the CH (Calcium Hardness) gets to 500 ppm. That is from Cal Hypo. If you cannot test for that, keep track of how much Cal Hypo you use. Then Poolmath can tell you how much calcium that has added to your water volume.

The CYA will stay relatively stable. The one tablet every 6 weeks is to account for natural degradation. If you drain any water, then use a tablet per 1000 gallons you replace to add back the CYA.
Thanks Mknauss. Really appreciate your help. I'll go and have a look at the Pool Math App. Have a great day (y)
 
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