For arguments sake, lets say they show me as 4 ppm for ammonia-i follow the 1 gallon per 30 mins routine? I can't just put all 4 gallons in at once, right?
Combined Chlorine Problem-help!
- Thread starter TazJMT
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,111
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Just an observation ... you keep on looking for shortcuts.
Our methods are based on science and chemistry. If you follow the process you get the expected result. When you shortcut the process you can end up where you did not expect. If we had a proven way to clear up a pool in one shot we would be sharing it with you.
Add 10 ppm of CL and then test after 30 minutes. Repeat until you can hold at least 5 ppm after the 30 minutes. Once there you can being the SLAM Process. Follow it step by step with no shortcuts for best results.
I am not looking for shortcuts-I am merely asking questions, things that make sense to someone who is smart but not experienced in this field. I do plan on following your proven methods, but let us assume those methods only came from questioning and were probably not perfected on the first try.
I appreciate the help very much, but I have learned just as much from the answers to my questions as I have from reading the methods. And maybe in some time from now, someone else reads this and also wonders the same thing-they can read this thread and will know the answer without having to ask. Sorry if this response comes off with tone, it is not meant to. I am just a very inquisitive person and that has served me very well in many walks of life.
Just got back from the pet store and home depot for a ton of chlorine
Pet store uses test strips (i know, i know) and it showed approx. 2ppm for ammonia. Of course i don't know if that is exact, but it isn't 0
So i assume in the next couple hours, i should break through the ammonia. Then I will start the SLAM and pick up some CYA tomorrow AM
I am going to assume no matter what, i will wake up to 0 FC because the CYA is 0 and there is no way I am waking up to check it before the sun hits the pool
Pet store uses test strips (i know, i know) and it showed approx. 2ppm for ammonia. Of course i don't know if that is exact, but it isn't 0
So i assume in the next couple hours, i should break through the ammonia. Then I will start the SLAM and pick up some CYA tomorrow AM
I am going to assume no matter what, i will wake up to 0 FC because the CYA is 0 and there is no way I am waking up to check it before the sun hits the pool
An update-it is taking way more liquid chlorine than I thought, but I am getting some FC reading now so i think the end of the ammonia is near. Also see my pH dropping off really far (which is another sign of ammonia as i have read here).
When I begin SLAMing, should i first adjust the pH back up to 6.2? I knwo the article says not to worry about pH while you are SLAMing, but it went so low (6.5) that i feel like i should take care of that first-says i need like 10 lbs of soda ash for the-geez!
When I begin SLAMing, should i first adjust the pH back up to 6.2? I knwo the article says not to worry about pH while you are SLAMing, but it went so low (6.5) that i feel like i should take care of that first-says i need like 10 lbs of soda ash for the-geez!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Get your pH back to 7.2 after the FC holds and before the SLAM.
Test your TA. If 0, then use small amounts of soda ash (washing soda) to raise the pH by 0.5 points at a time. Once you get pH in the low 7's, test TA.
Test your TA. If 0, then use small amounts of soda ash (washing soda) to raise the pH by 0.5 points at a time. Once you get pH in the low 7's, test TA.
Ok got my test kit and went to town. some interesting results
FC 1.0
CC.5
TC1.5
PH 7.2
TA 170???
i am shocked that TA is that high after hitting the pool so hard with shock for ammonia (which i would expect it would be low). i did the test 3 times, and the first 2 times it came up with approx 240! 3rd time 170
now i know we believe this test over all others (strips/stores), but every other test had my TA around 120, so this just seems odd.
Since this is my first time using this test kit, a couple questions to clarify:
1) When doing the TA test, it says to use drops and swirl until it comes back to red. Do they mean pink? because i stopped when i saw pink. should it be a true red?
2) also, do the yellow drops for the "daily" chlorine test test for FC or TC? I know you are hoping those are the same number, but wasnt sure which it was going for. Do most people just do that test and only use the powder if they suspect a problem
I know .5 is "acceptable" for CC, but I am going to use one more dose of shock, I'd really like to see that number hit 0. Worst case scenario, I waste 1 bottle
thanks again
FC 1.0
CC.5
TC1.5
PH 7.2
TA 170???
i am shocked that TA is that high after hitting the pool so hard with shock for ammonia (which i would expect it would be low). i did the test 3 times, and the first 2 times it came up with approx 240! 3rd time 170
now i know we believe this test over all others (strips/stores), but every other test had my TA around 120, so this just seems odd.
Since this is my first time using this test kit, a couple questions to clarify:
1) When doing the TA test, it says to use drops and swirl until it comes back to red. Do they mean pink? because i stopped when i saw pink. should it be a true red?
2) also, do the yellow drops for the "daily" chlorine test test for FC or TC? I know you are hoping those are the same number, but wasnt sure which it was going for. Do most people just do that test and only use the powder if they suspect a problem
I know .5 is "acceptable" for CC, but I am going to use one more dose of shock, I'd really like to see that number hit 0. Worst case scenario, I waste 1 bottle
thanks again
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
From Pool School - TA testing:
Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do not bother with the Chlorine OTO (yellow) test. I only use that if I get a weird FAS-DPD test result (like 0 FC). It is at best a sign there is chlorine in the water.
Thanks! I just did it again and got the same reading, but yeah i guess the drops could have been too small...i just can't imagine every other test was off by 60+
Just did another CL test after 40 or so mins of shocking. got
FC=15.5
CC=.5 (I really wanted this to be 0)
The FC is almost the exact amount i added (pool is in the shade now so sun burnoff was probably minimal)
I am going to go for adding 30 CYA since I am currently at (or above) that SLAM level anyway-i assume having the chlorine before the CYA is acceptable
pool looks better than it ever has-maybe i can actually go in sometime?
Oh yeah and what about the "redness" of the TA test? is it at the first sign of pink or is true red?
I am about to do my first ever SLAM. Can i put my tri-chlor pucks in the chlorinator or no? I was thinking if i do, it could give me a false (higher) FC reading in the morning
I am about to do my first ever SLAM. Can i put my tri-chlor pucks in the chlorinator or no? I was thinking if i do, it could give me a false (higher) FC reading in the morning
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
From Pool School - TA testing:
Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.
Trichlor tablets should not be used during the SLAM Process nor for daily maintenance.
Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.
Trichlor tablets should not be used during the SLAM Process nor for daily maintenance.
Wait, never use trichlor pucks? Why? What do you use for daily chlorination then?
EDIT-I just saw the pool school chlorinate article-says to add liquid 2-3 ppm daily.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,633
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
In NJ, you can likely get by with using trichlor tablets for daily maintenance. But, you still have to monitor your FC and CYA levels.
Yes now that I have the kit, i can definitely monitor
What about being in NJ helps me get away with trichlor-just wondering?
Should i still stay away from it while SLAMing? I am picturing it putting chlorine in the pool all night and giving me a false higher reading
The trichlor will raise your CYA levels. It doesn't take long for a steady diet of trichlor tablets to raise CYA out of the recommended range. It is best to save the tablets for times when you will be away from your pool for a week or more, like business trips or vacations. They will keep for years as long as they are stored in the original container in a cool, dry location.
Lots of rain, short pool season, partial draining for winter ... all of which might keep the CYA rise under control.