We had green around the walls of our Coleman 18ft pool and went to local pool store for them to test water. They suggested shock two times first day with packets and stop yellow (algaceide) which we did then the second day to shock again (1 bag) , which we did and we were suppose to add 5 lbs of alkalinity bag you mix with pool water that day also, that step we forgot . Our pool is not any better two days now, so we added the alkalinity today. Stabilizer is suppose to be added after it is clear. We do have standard pump/filter still that came with pool that my husband modified for a fountain. We ordered a new sand filter pump/2100 gph that will be here in three days. Any suggestions what we can do for now??
Coleman 18ft pool green
- Thread starter Tzelik1730
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,767
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
Can you post the actual product name of the 'stop yellow' product you used?
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Can you post the actual product name of the 'stop yellow' product you used?
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
You need to keep brushing that pool with a nylon brush twice a day until the algae is gone. After that, twice a week. Because you have a vinyl liner, i'm thinking you will be wanting liquid conditioner (CYA) and brush it around. Don't forget to give the jug a really good shake before you pour. Until you have your own test kit like the one that Marty mentioned above, it will be difficult to tell how much of anything you need to add. You can get away with good quality test strips but I compare it to driving without your glasses on! The pool store will do a similar test to what your doing, however, I have seen wild differences between the results I get and the results the pool store gets. I take my time with every test, so I'm more inclined to believe my own results.
I see a lot of pools and have yet to need algaecide or floc or any magical pool store chemical. The TFP method is as old as the experts on here
. But it works and will safe you a ton of cash. If you're getting the same temperatures Clermont as we are getting over here in Cape Coral, you want to set those bags of shock to one side and give that pool a good dose of liquid chlorine so you can get swimming soon!
I see a lot of pools and have yet to need algaecide or floc or any magical pool store chemical. The TFP method is as old as the experts on here
. But it works and will safe you a ton of cash. If you're getting the same temperatures Clermont as we are getting over here in Cape Coral, you want to set those bags of shock to one side and give that pool a good dose of liquid chlorine so you can get swimming soon!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,767
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That is sodium bromide. You now have a bromine pool.
You need to drain the pool down to leaving 18” of water in it and refill. That should drop the bromide level enough to not interfere too much.
You need to keep brushing that pool with a nylon brush twice a day until the algae is gone. After that, twice a week. Because you have a vinyl liner, i'm thinking you will be wanting liquid conditioner (CYA) and brush it around. Don't forget to give the jug a really good shake before you pour. Until you have your own test kit like the one that Marty mentioned above, it will be difficult to tell how much of anything you need to add. You can get away with good quality test strips but I compare it to driving without your glasses on! The pool store will do a similar test to what your doing, however, I have seen wild differences between the results I get and the results the pool store gets. I take my time with every test, so I'm more inclined to believe my own results.
I see a lot of pools and have yet to need algaecide or floc or any magical pool store chemical. The TFP method is as old as the experts on here
Attachments
I attached the picture of my pool. It is now green
You need to keep brushing that pool with a nylon brush twice a day until the algae is gone. After that, twice a week. Because you have a vinyl liner, i'm thinking you will be wanting liquid conditioner (CYA) and brush it around. Don't forget to give the jug a really good shake before you pour. Until you have your own test kit like the one that Marty mentioned above, it will be difficult to tell how much of anything you need to add. You can get away with good quality test strips but I compare it to driving without your glasses on! The pool store will do a similar test to what your doing, however, I have seen wild differences between the results I get and the results the pool store gets. I take my time with every test, so I'm more inclined to believe my own results.
I see a lot of pools and have yet to need algaecide or floc or any magical pool store chemical. The TFP method is as old as the experts on here
How much chlorine do I need after adding all of these chemicals? I have a tablet in the Chlorinator.
Is that our only option, I attached a picture of the pool as it looks right now after all these chemicals.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,767
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you wish to follow TFP recommendations and the SLAM Process, you need to remove as much of the sodium bromide from the pool as possible.
You will use liquid chlorine, not trichlor tablets.
You will use liquid chlorine, not trichlor tablets.
FWIW, these type of pools can be drained down to the drain plug which will leave 3-5" of water in the bottom. The liner won't be affected/shift because the water is too heavy to shift it even with 2". This is why you have to smooth out the wrinkles at 1" or less while filling or you can't smooth them at all.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,767
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Even better, drain it down to that. You need to get the bromide out of the water.
If you do drain, you may want to take that opportunity to take it completely down and re-level it. From the image you posted, it appears to be 3+ inches off level which is well over the 1" recommendation. If you did do that, your bromine problem would be solved with a 100% refill.
Use a flat shovel and rake, then use a level on a long board and check the whole area. The pavers for the legs should be flush with the ground. Did you put the pool down upon the ground without leveling the space at all?
