Cloudy water will NOT go away!

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B

Boomsoul

Member
May 13, 2021
7
Indianapolis, IN
Pool Size
5200
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hope this is going in the correct forum category. This is our second year with the pool, we bought a cheapo above ground one from the local hardware store like everyone last year. Had a pool guy truck in the water cause we're on a well. Everything was fine all last year. I left the water in it and uncovered at the end of the season all thru the winter. (Big mistake I am finding out) once it thawed out I leaf raked all the debris I could then vacuumed several times. Got the water chemistry what I think is as close to correct that I can tell with my test kit.

It is now sitting at 2.0 free chlorine, combined is the same. pH is hovering around 7.4 to 7.6. my alkalinity is super high, like above 200. I know I need to address that but it was like that all last year and I didn't have any problems. My kit doesn't test for anything else.

The issue I'm having is that the water will not clear up. At all. I have shocked it a couple times, waiting between shocks until the chlorine gets back to normal and vacuuming constantly for the last 2 weeks or so, cleaning the filter twice daily and putting in new ones here and there. I have thrown clarifier at it, algaecide, everything but drop out flocculant. I'm at the point where I was going to try the floc tonight but did some internet searching and thought I would get help before doing that and pumping half my water out.

When I started the water was a real murky deep green, like swamp. Now it is a pretty turquoise/blue color but so cloudy you can't see down more than a foot or so.16209478749167565776688525811275.jpg
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. If there is anything else you guys need to know feel free to ask. I'm going to go into town tomorrow and try and find a better test kit or take the water somewhere to get it tested for calcium/minerals and whatever else I need to know. Thanks in advance everyone. Please help!! Hahaha
 
Welcome! We have a method that works for everyone, using only chemicals that you know and can use. You do need to get a test kit that includes a FAS-DPD test for FC, though. See the ones here: Test Kits Compared. I got the Taylor K-2006c, but if I were to do it again, I’d have gotten the TFT-100. Once you have that you will be able to accurately measure your FC and CYA, which will let you put the right amount of chlorine in the pool for the SLAM Process. You probably won’t find these kits at any local stores - they’re typically purchased online, and if you get the TFT-100 you know the reagents will be fresh.

A good test kit costs about $100 but you’ll more than save that from the lack of extra chemicals you won’t need to put in your pool. Meanwhile add about 5ppm of FC daily to keep up with the algae bloom until the kit arrives. :)
 
The issue is that you "shocked" the pool to an unknown level, but immediately let it fall back to normal again. So you killed some bugs but not all, and then they multiplied again.

You need to follow the SLAM process, linked above, with a real emphasis on the "M" part. You need to bring the chlorine level up to the right number and then hold. it. there. as. long. as. it. takes. That could well be several days or even over a week. It will require a lot of chlorine but then once it's over, you can be assured that you got everything and it won't come back if you continue to follow the simple routine maintenance steps TFP methodology recommends.

The TA we can help you take care of afterwards.
 
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If we may ask, what were you using for chlorine last year and up until now? Tablets, and most other hard chlorine (granules, powdered shock) have stabilizer (CYA) in them as well as chlorine. Once stabilizer is in the pool, it pretty much stays. It may break down a tiny bit (maybe 5%/month), but for all intents and purposes, the only way to lower it when it gets too high is by draining and refilling with fresh water.

So, if you're using any of those hard chlorines, eventually, the chlorine gets used up by the sun and organics in the pool, but the stabilizer remains. Well, you can kind of see how a month or two will likely affect your stabilizer level. It will shoot through the roof in a hurry. Once it does, you need more and more FC to do the same job as before. Most people don't realize that and continue to dose at their old FC levels and they become stumped when the pool turns green. I would bet a majority of our new forum members end up here for this very reason.

Here, we teach you that once your stabilizer level is where you want it (30 - 50ppm for non SWGenerator pools), don't add anything to the pool that contains it. Stick to liquid chlorine exclusively or get a salt water generator (SWG). They don't contain any stabilizer. By doing this, you aren't shooting at a moving target like before. The stabilizer stays steady, and you just add liquid chlorine to get to your target FC level (which is based on your CYA).
The best tool you can get for yourself is a good test kit. Either the TF-100 or the Taylor K2006C. They aren't cheap, but they will pay for themselves many times over with all the chemicals and potions that you won't be sold at Leslie's because you will be in complete control of your water.
 
Thanks for all the info guys! I am gonna order the test kit tonight and try and add the 5ppm of FC daily until it arrives. All last year I used liquid chlorine, the basic stuff you get at the hardware store. I also used some chlorine pucks in the skimmer that were supposed to keep the water crystal clear and had some other benefits according to the shiny, colorful packaging, ha!

I read up on the SLAM method and some other interesting stuff on this site. It's amazing the amount of info here! I appreciate all the help so far. I will keep ya posted once the kit gets here and I test the water. Cheers!!
 
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One thing that will help you as you move forward is the online Pool Math calculator. You will be able to determine how much of each chemical you need to add after you run your tests. For example, to reach 5 ppm free chlorine, you would input 5,200 gallons at the top. On the left side of the column you'd input the current value and on the right side column you'd input the intended value. You would need 54 ounces of 6% bleach. If you can find liquid chlorine 10% strength you would need to add 33 ounces. A vital tool. You can also get the Pool Math application for your phone, which is even better because you can keep a log your test result and what you're adding to the pool chemical wise.
 
Ok, my TF-100 kit was on my doorstep when I got home from work today. Here are my numbers.

FC - 4ppm
CC - 2.5 ppm
pH - 7.5
TA - 150 I was surprised at this. The other kit I was using had it way higher.
CH - 225 - 250ppm range.

I followed the directions for the CYA test to the letter. I kept filling the cylinder with the black dot up a little at a time and got until it was full. The water was a little cloudy but I could still clearly see the black dot while looking down from the top. I assume this means that my CYA level is almost zero.

Is there somewhere on the site that will give me an idea of how much stabilizer to add to get my CYA up to acceptable levels before I SLAM?

Since I originally posted I have been brushing and vacuuming daily and cleaning the filter daily as well. I've added chlorine a couple times, just trying to keep it around 3 to 4 ppm. I feel like the color is getting better, closer to blue than green now.

It did rain a bit today, no hard downpours but I didn't get the cover on before I left for work. I tested after it had rained.

Thanks for all the help again. It's starting to warm up and the wife and kid have been asking when the pool will open up. Nevermind the water temp is still around 63 degrees. Ha! I'm not swimming until it's closer to 80!
 

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Careful with the CYA - you have less than 30 but likely not 0. I would only add 20ppm and assume you have 30 to start the SLAM, then retest in a few days and adjust the SLAM level if you need to. Don’t forget to adjust pH prior to starting the SLAM.
 
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All I can find around me is the granular stabilizer. The instant liquid pool stabilizer online won't be here till the end of the month and I really want to get this process started.

Reading the pool chemical section here it says you need to dissolve the granular in a sock in the skimmer basket or in front of the outflow pipe. Then your not supposed to backwash or clean your filter for a week? Would that apply to my cheap o little filter too? (Summer waves above ground hardware store pool) I clean the cartridge on a daily basis right now cause of all the dead algae that it collects. I can't imagine running my pump 24/7 and not cleaning that filter out for a week! Any ideas?
 
If you hang the granular stuff in a sock in front of the return and let it dissolve into the water that way (squeeze once in a while to hurry it along) then you don't have to worry about not backwashing or cleaning the filter. That's more for the traditional method of adding CYA granules, which is dumping it in the skimmer to go to your filter and dissolve there over time (which isn't recommended as it can get mushy and clog the piping!).
 
IceShadow said:
If you hang the granular stuff in a sock in front of the return and let it dissolve into the water that way (squeeze once in a while to hurry it along) then you don't have to worry about not backwashing or cleaning the filter. That's more for the traditional method of adding CYA granules, which is dumping it in the skimmer to go to your filter and dissolve there over time (which isn't recommended as it can get mushy and clog the piping!).
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Awesome. Thanks!
 
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