Test results according to TF-100
CYA-70
Ch-turned blue after adding thR-0011l
Ph-6.8
TA-70
Help?
CYA-70
Ch-turned blue after adding thR-0011l
Ph-6.8
TA-70
Help?
Cloudy water after algae
- Thread starter Hubbert21
- Start date
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Yep, FC is always important!
Sounds like you have algae still growing the water. You can find out for sure by doing this test: Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Sounds like you have algae still growing the water. You can find out for sure by doing this test: Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
If it were mine, I'd wait until about sunset, and use PoolMath to determine how much bleach to add to raise FC to 10 ppm. Then test it after 30 minutes of pump run time and record the result. Leave the pump running overnight and re-test FC again in the morning around sunrise. If it drops more than 1 ppm, it's killing something in the water.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Good steps! Taking a picture looking down at the stairs provides a great indicator of progress.
If it drops below 1 ppm what should I do? I have vacuumed literally ever piece up out of the pool and it's still cloudy
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
If it drops down to less than 7 ppm FC, then you know there's free-floating algae growing in the water (not visible to the naked eye). When it happens, we SLAM the pool, which is described in this article (Shock Level and Maintain with chlorinating liquid or bleach). SLAM Process. It's a good idea to print that out and follow the written instructions to the letter. There's also a video on the SLAM page that gives you a visual.
Essentially, you drop the pH to 7.2, then maintain FC at shock level per this chart: [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], until the criteria are met.
Essentially, you drop the pH to 7.2, then maintain FC at shock level per this chart: [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], until the criteria are met.
My ph is between 6.0 and 7.2
- - - Updated - - -
I do have a chlorine tablet dispenser. I have turned it off and used bleach. But can I use the tablets after I complete the slam? I have around 30 tablets
- - - Updated - - -
I do have a chlorine tablet dispenser. I have turned it off and used bleach. But can I use the tablets after I complete the slam? I have around 30 tablets
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
To raise PH to 7.2-7.4 you can use chemicals (click here to do with chemical options) or you can point the water return jet upward so it breaks the surface and makes ripples/bubbles (called aeration, which raises ph slowly without chemicals). Those tablets are acidic and were dropping PH. They were also adding CYA and FC, but not enough FC by themselves, you need bleach to keep it crystal clear and safe. You can use them over time, like when your cya drops below your desired target (30-60 depending) after splash out and backwashing. Using tablets right now will continue to push down PH (already low) and up CYA (already high.) Keep the unused ones dry, they keep for years.
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
Also, in case another wording helps, this chart explains that as long as your CYA is reading 70, you are not allowed to let your FC drop less than 5, and should try to keep it 8-10 most of the time. If you are losing FC overnight (after no more direct sun on pool to before direct sun on pool) (OCLT link) then you need to SLAM (link)because algae is trying to turn your pool cloudy, then green (link to chlorinate).
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Good to hear 
So it's likely just going to take a while to filter out the dead algae 'carcasses'.
Let your filter pressure rise 25% above clean pressure before backwashing. They work better when they're a bit dirty. You can also try adding some diatomaceous earth (DE) to the sand filter per this procedure: Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter
Anything you can do to keep the water stirred up (raise any dust up off the bottom) will help it all get to the filter. Hopefully it goes quickly
So it's likely just going to take a while to filter out the dead algae 'carcasses'.
Let your filter pressure rise 25% above clean pressure before backwashing. They work better when they're a bit dirty. You can also try adding some diatomaceous earth (DE) to the sand filter per this procedure: Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter
Anything you can do to keep the water stirred up (raise any dust up off the bottom) will help it all get to the filter. Hopefully it goes quickly
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
The SLAM shock level for CYA at 70 ppm is 28 ppm FC, which would be your target if you want to SLAM the pool. We usually recommend a SLAM if there is visible algae, or if an OCLT fails. Did you have visible algae? (the thread title suggests it). If so, then I would go ahead and SLAM the pool until the water is clear.
If not, or after a completed SLAM, then you would add enough bleach for a target of 8-10 ppm FC. You would add bleach periodically to ensure that your FC never falls below your bare minimum of 5 ppm FC. So for example, if you tend to lose 3 ppm per day, and you add bleach every other day, then you would raise FC to more like 12 ppm FC to allow for a drop of 6 ppm FC and still be above the minimum.
Once you've decided your target, and tested for the current level, PoolMath will give you the correct quantity to add.
If not, or after a completed SLAM, then you would add enough bleach for a target of 8-10 ppm FC. You would add bleach periodically to ensure that your FC never falls below your bare minimum of 5 ppm FC. So for example, if you tend to lose 3 ppm per day, and you add bleach every other day, then you would raise FC to more like 12 ppm FC to allow for a drop of 6 ppm FC and still be above the minimum.
Once you've decided your target, and tested for the current level, PoolMath will give you the correct quantity to add.
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