I didn't see any and when I did the chlorine drop test it stayed the same overnight. I have been using pucks for the last year and just decided to swap for the good. Just unsure of what to do. My water is sparkling clear now
Cloudy water after algae
- Thread starter Hubbert21
- Start date
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
Since you passed the OCLT and your water is crystal clear (both still true?) we move on to testing and adjustments. Run a full set of tests and post results.
If you have not had any pucks/tabs in the pool since your last cya reading, you can skip cya, but I'd do it anyways just to be sure since it is so important, then as long as you don't use pucks or tabs or dichlor, you can skip cya testing until you have to add a lot of water or a month or two, whatever pool school suggests I suppose.
So, as far as what to do next:
Test FC and CC. write down results
IF FC is higher than 10, skip ph
if FC is lower than 10, do ph test and write down results
Do TA test
Do CYA test if there was reason for it to change since it was 70, or if you want. Remember it must be done on sunny day, back to sun. glancing down, not staring at it.
Do a CH test too, but you can also skip this for months if it is in range and poolmath doesn't suggest a CSI problem (we'll see later after you post results)
after testing is done we have some choose your own adventure stuff:
if FC was 10 or less, we do ph adjustment first - was your ph 7.2-7.8? if not, get it there using poolmath - don't know how? read this and ask any questions you have (post what you get if you are unsure and I will double check your math before you add/buy) - - - after you get ph to 7.2-7.8 then if FC was lower than 10, get it there using bleach and poolmath (ditto)
if FC was higher than 10, don't add any chems, just post results. we need to let fc drop under 10 so we can test ph and make sure you are in safe zone or adjust ph
If you have not had any pucks/tabs in the pool since your last cya reading, you can skip cya, but I'd do it anyways just to be sure since it is so important, then as long as you don't use pucks or tabs or dichlor, you can skip cya testing until you have to add a lot of water or a month or two, whatever pool school suggests I suppose.
So, as far as what to do next:
Test FC and CC. write down results
IF FC is higher than 10, skip ph
if FC is lower than 10, do ph test and write down results
Do TA test
Do CYA test if there was reason for it to change since it was 70, or if you want. Remember it must be done on sunny day, back to sun. glancing down, not staring at it.
Do a CH test too, but you can also skip this for months if it is in range and poolmath doesn't suggest a CSI problem (we'll see later after you post results)
after testing is done we have some choose your own adventure stuff:
if FC was 10 or less, we do ph adjustment first - was your ph 7.2-7.8? if not, get it there using poolmath - don't know how? read this and ask any questions you have (post what you get if you are unsure and I will double check your math before you add/buy) - - - after you get ph to 7.2-7.8 then if FC was lower than 10, get it there using bleach and poolmath (ditto)
if FC was higher than 10, don't add any chems, just post results. we need to let fc drop under 10 so we can test ph and make sure you are in safe zone or adjust ph
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
Great job on test results. Let's look at the Pool School Recommended Levels (a great page to print and keep with test kit)
1. PH is great, no adjustment needed.
2. TA is okay as long as your PH stays in the 7s and your CSI value according to PoolMath is in the safe zone, we'll revisit this later, remind the thread if we forget
3. CH is great, no adjustment needed as long as CSI is okay (again, later)
4. CYA is ...OH NO! way high. How did it get here? Tablets, pucks, dichlor, trichlor all quietly add them, so we need to pause using all those. Only way to reduce CYA - drain a certain % of water using PoolMath to calc, and add water and replace. Do you have to....no, but would it make the pool easier/cheaper to care for, yes. Do you have to do it today? No. What do you have to do asap? Read on.
5. FC - depends on CYA-FC CHART, OH NO! We are at the bare minimum for 100 CYA, so you need to add bleach. Raise it so it tests at between 11-13, but not higher than 39. How much bleach? PoolMath.
Also, I didn't see CC test result. Please share that, even if zero.
If you are unsure about PoolMath, here is the help page, and ask us any questions you have too. If you are unsure if you got the right amount to add, post what you got and we'll confirm or correct before you dose the pool.
1. PH is great, no adjustment needed.
2. TA is okay as long as your PH stays in the 7s and your CSI value according to PoolMath is in the safe zone, we'll revisit this later, remind the thread if we forget
3. CH is great, no adjustment needed as long as CSI is okay (again, later)
4. CYA is ...OH NO! way high. How did it get here? Tablets, pucks, dichlor, trichlor all quietly add them, so we need to pause using all those. Only way to reduce CYA - drain a certain % of water using PoolMath to calc, and add water and replace. Do you have to....no, but would it make the pool easier/cheaper to care for, yes. Do you have to do it today? No. What do you have to do asap? Read on.
5. FC - depends on CYA-FC CHART, OH NO! We are at the bare minimum for 100 CYA, so you need to add bleach. Raise it so it tests at between 11-13, but not higher than 39. How much bleach? PoolMath.
Also, I didn't see CC test result. Please share that, even if zero.
If you are unsure about PoolMath, here is the help page, and ask us any questions you have too. If you are unsure if you got the right amount to add, post what you got and we'll confirm or correct before you dose the pool.
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
PAGirl is absolutely correct and all CYA over 90 merit that procedure, please read this page paying special attention to "If your CYA level is 90 or higher" section and notes. If you like videos, watch this video of the CYA test and view this thread that has pictures and info that really helped me.
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