Cloudy pool.. need help

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bluefire_xl

bluefire_xl

0
May 18, 2018
35
Winnipeg, Canada
Previous owner had some shock left and we tried to use it. seems to have made some difference to the pool. But we are stuck on a stage that the water is still cloudy. Visually on the side the water seems to be clear for about 2 feet deep and looks like something cloudy white on it. Is the white stuff still algae?

I still don't have a proper test kit but I got to a pool store that use a Taylor kit to test. Here is the reading that they have given me

PH = 7.4
FC = 1.6
CC = .12
CYA = 30
CALCIUM = 240
ALKALINITY = 70

Not sure how to move next from this
 
The cloudiness maybe due to dead algae. Get your chlorine up to SLAM levels for your CYA of 30 which should be 12ppm. I would overshoot a little and go to 14 or 16 ppm, and hold at 12ppm Make sure to use liquid bleach chlorine only and the pool math calc to determine how much to add in fl. Oz. Run the pump until water clears, your OCLT is 0.5 or less.

A skimmer sock or hairnet in the skimmer basket may help you filter out the particles before it hits the sand filter.
 
bluefire_xl said:
Previous owner had some shock left and we tried to use it. seems to have made some difference to the pool. But we are stuck on a stage that the water is still cloudy. Visually on the side the water seems to be clear for about 2 feet deep and looks like something cloudy white on it. Is the white stuff still algae?

I still don't have a proper test kit but I got to a pool store that use a Taylor kit to test. Here is the reading that they have given me

PH = 7.4
FC = 1.6
CC = .12
CYA = 30
CALCIUM = 240
ALKALINITY = 70

Not sure how to move next from this
Click to expand...
It's going to be futile to try to SLAM using a pool store for testing.

For example, the Taylor test kits cannot measure CC at .12, the lowest resolution of that test is .20.

Your next move should be to get a proper test kit. You will waste much more money than the price of a TF-100 if you try to SLAM blind.....
 
Does the dead algae gets dissolve by chlorine or it should normally just get filtered?



RobertScalchi said:
The cloudiness maybe due to dead algae. Get your chlorine up to SLAM levels for your CYA of 30 which should be 12ppm. I would overshoot a little and go to 14 or 16 ppm, and hold at 12ppm Make sure to use liquid bleach chlorine only and the pool math calc to determine how much to add in fl. Oz. Run the pump until water clears, your OCLT is 0.5 or less.

A skimmer sock or hairnet in the skimmer basket may help you filter out the particles before it hits the sand filter.
Click to expand...
 
No dead algae does not dissolve out. Typically it turns white or brown once from green algae once it is dead, and has to be filtered out over time, or vaccumed to waste.

Your first objective is to obtain a proper test kit such as the TF-100. or Taylor K-2006 which is lacking in CYA and FAS-DPD reagents with the TF-100 being the better option. Pool store test results are inconsistent and deemed unreliable.

Your second objective is to do a little light reading on Pool School here in the forum, get familiar with the terms and procedure TFP utilizes, and purchase a case or two of bleach or pool chlorine. No shock packets, or Tri chlor pucks or tabs. What shocking a pool really is, elevating your level of free chlorine or FC to heightened and sustainable levels appropriate to your CYA ratio. Shock is not necessarily a product you purchase in granular packets.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

You want to use the Pool Math Calculator to determine how many fl.oz. of what strength bleach to add to take your pool to shock levels, and ensure you are killing off and filtering out dead algae. Brushing is important as well as algae has a biofilm that is slimy and the chlorine needs to penetrate it to kill it off.

SLAM and maintain your shock levels everyday until your OCLT Overnight Chlorine Test loses no more than 1-2ppm FC in 24 hrs. Your CC or combined chlorine is less than 0.5 ppm and your water is clear. If you allow the SLAM to fall or fail before meeting these 3 criteria, you risk the probability of algae redeveloping and starting over.

As I mentioned earlier, skimmer socks or hairnets over the skimmer basket will help you in filtering out the dead algae, but you must remain vigilant on the SLAM to kill it. Sand filters can take awhile so you have to be patient. If you still have difficulties getting the water crystal clear before it back and I have another solution.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Right now I only had a small Taylor kit with me (K-1004). Sourcing out the test kit in Canada is a bit of a work. K-2006 even cost high. I have read some of the information here from Pool School and I am still learning. I will try that idea of putting some skimmer socks in the basket. I saw some in the house left by the previous owner.
 
When you get a comprehensive test kit just make sure to test the cya first and then stick with the liquid chlorine for SLAM. Adjust the pH to 7.2 before you SLAM. The K-2006 usualy runs if my memory serves me correctly about $70. The K - 2006 however is limited on fas-dpd reagent and cya reagent. TheTF-100 is more comprehensive.
 
Just curious about these items on your sig.

Triple filtration using Skimmer socks = Do you just put socks on the skimmer for this?
Duda Diesel 5 Micron Bag = Do you use this for filtration as well?

I can get the K-2006 from a store in another Canada state. But they were selling it for 170CAD + tax. That is not even the 2006C version. :( I really need to find a way to source out these test kits.

RobertScalchi said:
When you get a comprehensive test kit just make sure to test the cya first and then stick with the liquid chlorine for SLAM. Adjust the pH to 7.2 before you SLAM. The K-2006 usualy runs if my memory serves me correctly about $70. The K - 2006 however is limited on fas-dpd reagent and cya reagent. TheTF-100 is more comprehensive.
Click to expand...
 

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Yes i use the Duda Diesel bag at 5 micron in combination with the skimmer socks to filter out finely suspended particles such as dead algae or pollen that my cartridge filter may miss at 10 micron to polish my water clear after or during all SLAM requirements. Depending on the clarity and severity of your water the bag made load up fast at 5 micron, you can even order them as low as 1 Micron or 0.5 micron.

To use the Duda Diesel bag you need a hose clamp, and a 90 degree elbow. You attach it and screw it in place of your returm eyeball. You can order the bag on ebay for about $5

You want the material to be polyester felt heat treated, size 4x14"

Here is the link:
Sewn Industrial Filter Sock Bags Water Liquid Biodiesel WVO Oil Dust Fuel Diesel | eBay

As far as the hose clamps you can pick them up at any auto parts store or hardware store. I prefer the one with the turn key on it so you don't have to use a screwdriver to fasten and loosen it. The elbow is a SPX1105Z4

Here is the cheapest I've found that at $5. Feel free to shop around online.


Hayward 90 Degree Elbow Fitting
 
bluefire_xl said:
I can get the K-2006 from a store in another Canada state. But they were selling it for 170CAD + tax. That is not even the 2006C version. :( I really need to find a way to source out these test kits.
Click to expand...

The best way to get a proper test kit is to have one shipped to a mail drop store across the US border from you in N Dakota. Then drive down and pick it up. They charge a small handling fee.

We suggest the TF100 with XL option as you need to SLAM. TFTestkits.net

Take care
 
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