Cloudy blue water, should I drain

[syd42]

Hey guys,

This is only my second year with a pool. I came back from vacation a couple of weeks ago and my pool was green, cloudy, with floating algae. I was using the PermaSalt system (have now ditched). Went to the pool store (lesson learned), and they sold me some black algaecide (which I will not use again). After using that for a couple of days, the water turned blue, but was still cloudy and had foamy bubbles floating around. I still can't see the bottom of my pool. I've got an Above Ground Pool 30 feet round, with vinyl liner.

I found this forum and decided to ditch the PermaSalt system and switch to the Circupool RJ45 plus. I started trying to balance the water last week. I ordered the TF100 and got the TA up, but I cannot get the CYA to increase. It was reading at <10 with the TF100.
On Friday, I added 4lbs of stabilizer in a couple of socks and suspended them in front of the return. The calculator said I needed about 6lbs to get the CYA to 30 so I could SLAM. They had dissolved by the next day so I added about 2.5 gallons of LC (10%). I was trying to get it up to SLAM levels, but with the near 0 of CYA it seemed like a waste. I tested the water a couple hours later. The CYA was still <10 and the Chlorine showed <1.
So Saturday evening , I added another 2lbs of stabilizer to the sock in front of the return. The new SWG came in and we got it installed. I haven't powered it on yet because it says balance the water first.
Sunday, I went ahead and added another 2.5 gallons of chlorine.
Monday morning, the water is still blue, but no more foam and too cloudy to see the bottom (I can see maybe a foot down). Here are the readings from this morning. The pictures from this morning: the ammonia test and results and the CYA test.

TA = 90
PH = 7.2
CH = 50
CYA = <10
FC = 0

I went ahead and bought an ammonia testing kit from the pet store. After testing it various times over the weekend, the highest it ever really looked was maybe .5 (which was this morning).

Since I had the PermaSalt system before should I partially drain the pool to get rid of any copper? (I always kept it pretty low and would usually supplement with chlorine tabs last year because I could never get as clear of water as I expected). Also, on the off chance there is more ammonia than is showing?
I can drain pretty quickly with a sump pump and vacuum set to waste, but I'm worried I won't be able to fill it back up quickly enough to get to the skimmer and let the pump run before algae starts (it's in the 90s here all week) or for the sun to damage the liner if there's not water covering it.

Are my draining fears unfounded and should I just proceed? Do you think a half drain would suffice? Have I just not given the stabilizer enough time?
I'd really like to clear this up in the next 10 days.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Texas Splash]

That's odd about the stabilizer. If you squeezed all 6 lbs out of the socks back on Friday and Saturday, you should've reached your desired CYA goal of 30 by now. It's definitely low in the pic. I would say a couple things about that test. Be sure that you "gently" mix that R-0013 and pool water before viewing. Once you are done mixing, do the dot viewing outside right away on a sunny day. Don't let the solution settle. With the sun at your back/shoulder and viewing tube at your waist, the lighting entering the tube makes a difference. If after that you still appear to be low, you might add another 10 ppm worth of stabilizer.

As for the drain or no-drain, it depends on how much copper is in the water. While store testing isn't the most reliable (metals either), it is free and perhaps might give you an idea of how high he copper level is. I would be curious to know if you are close to the 0.3 threshold. If you are, I'd try to exchange some water before you do anymore chemical additions so you don't waste money. But if the test shows negligible copper, you might be fine.

Don't forget to update your signature with all f your pool and equipment info to include your test kit.

 

[syd42]

Thank you! I will take some water to Leslies and ask them to check the copper. I will also try the CYA test outside in the sun. And signature updated.

 

[MITBeta]

Seems like you might have an ammonia problem. You need to add CL to get to 10ppm,then test in 30 minutes. Repeat this until FC starts to hold at 5ppm or more. Once in starts to hold, add more stabilizer and begin SLAM.

 

[syd42]

That's odd about the stabilizer. If you squeezed all 6 lbs out of the socks back on Friday and Saturday, you should've reached your desired CYA goal of 30 by now. It's definitely low in the pic. I would say a couple things about that test. Be sure that you "gently" mix that R-0013 and pool water before viewing. Once you are done mixing, do the dot viewing outside right away on a sunny day. Don't let the solution settle. With the sun at your back/shoulder and viewing tube at your waist, the lighting entering the tube makes a difference. If after that you still appear to be low, you might add another 10 ppm worth of stabilizer.

As for the drain or no-drain, it depends on how much copper is in the water. While store testing isn't the most reliable (metals either), it is free and perhaps might give you an idea of how high he copper level is. I would be curious to know if you are close to the 0.3 threshold. If you are, I'd try to exchange some water before you do anymore chemical additions so you don't waste money. But if the test shows negligible copper, you might be fine.

Don't forget to update your signature with all f your pool and equipment info to include your test kit.

The pool store's test showed CYA 29 so it might have been user error on my end. I never tested the CYA in the sun. Their copper level shows .2 and iron .1

I added 3 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine. Retested 40 minutes later and the FC is at 9.5 and the CC is at 1.5.

Should I proceed with the slam and hope the copper gets splashed out/vacuumed to waste through the season?

Or go ahead and partially drain?

Seems like you might have an ammonia problem. You need to add CL to get to 10ppm,then test in 30 minutes. Repeat this until FC starts to hold at 5ppm or more. Once in starts to hold, add more stabilizer and begin SLAM.

I was worried about that, but I added 3 gallons of 10% LC and 40 minutes later the FC was at 9.5 and the CC at 1.5.

I think I was doing the CYA test wrong.

 

[Texas Splash]

Should I proceed with the slam

I would. While their copper test could be incorrect, you'll know pretty soon if the metals content is too high when you go to SLAM level. Be sure to lower the pH to 7.2 first though.

 

[syd42]

I would. While their copper test could be incorrect, you'll know pretty soon if the metals content is too high when you go to SLAM level. Be sure to lower the pH to 7.2 first though.

I'm on day 5 of SLAM. Not much change in appearance, but there have been a few lapses. You mentioned I would know if the metals content is too high. How would I tell?

 

[syd42]

I know SLAMMING takes time, but would draining halfway speed things along? I'm having company in 5 days and promised them a pool . I still can't see the bottom to brush (I still am, but I could easily miss spots). I'm supposed to get my extra fine filter for my dolphin vacuum today. I assume since the chlorine is still being consumed that there is still something that must be there. Do you think halfway draining would remove some of the algae/bacteria/whatever is consuming chlorine and would therefore be easier to kill with less liquid chlorine once refilled? I think I'm in the 20s on gallons of used LC. I've still got stabilizer so I could bring the CYA back up.

Is it safe to get in the pool when I can't see the bottom/FC is this high in order to brush the walls and floor?

I also have floc that I bought early in the season (while I was still using PermaSalt and before I found this forum.) Should I try that and vacuum to waste since there's copper in the water anyway? Or would that mess with SLAM levels?

Also, do you think replacing the sand with hth pool sand would help the filtering? I'm not sure what kind of sand is in my filter. It was filled with leftover sand from the installation of the pool last year.

Thanks for any help and motivation you can give!

Here are my FC recordings:
6/21
4:45pm add 3 gallon LC (10%)
5:30pm 9.5 FC 1.5CC
7:15pm 6 FC 1 CC add 2 gallon LC
10:15pm 11 FC 1CC add 1 gallon LC

6/22
6:45am 9.5 FC 1CC add 1 gallon LC
9:15am 10.5FC 1CC add 48oz LC
12pm 9.5 FC .5CC add 72oz LC
3:15pm 9FC 1CC add 1 gallon LC
6:45pm 10.5FC .5CC add 48oz LC
9:45pm 9.5FC 1CC add 1 gallon LC

6/23
7:30am 9FC add 1 gallon LC
9:am 13FC
10am 13.5FC
12:30pm 10FC add 64oz LC
1:30pm 11.5FC add 48oz Lc
2:45 pm 11.5FC add 16oz LC
4:30 pm 11.5FC add 16oz LC
6:00 pm 10.5FC add 48oz LC
8:00 pm 10.5FC add 48oz LC
9:30pm 11.5FC add 40oz LC

6/24

6:30am 9.5FC add 1 gallon LC
12:30pm 11.5FC add 24 oz
4:45pm 7.5FC add 1 gallon + 8oz LC
9:45pm 11FC add 64oz LC

6/25

7am 8FC add 1 gallon + 64oz

 

[mknauss]

Floc will make a mess. Do not use that.

If you wish to drain half the pool volume, go for it. You will need to add CYA and test the overall water chemistry.

It was filled with leftover sand from the installation of the pool last year.

Construction sand? You do need to use proper #20 filter sand.

 

[syd42]

Floc will make a mess. Do not use that.

If you wish to drain half the pool volume, go for it. You will need to add CYA and test the overall water chemistry.


Construction sand? You do need to use proper #20 filter sand.

Thank you! I will start the draining/refilling this evening while I replace the sand.
Would you recommend hth pool filter sand> HTH Pool Filter Sand 50 pound - Ace Hardware
or AquaQuartz> Pool Filter Sand, #20 Grade Silica, 50 lbs | Leslie's Pool Supplies

 

[mknauss]

Either of those will work fine.