Cloudy Blue Water After Swimmers

[jagger2005]

You know what would be cool is if you could attach one of those filters to a return line to capture all those metals. Is it possible to rig something up off a return, come up out of the water, go through a filter, and then attach pvc back under water surface. Just thinking...
Obviously, investing in something to keep out when adding fill water is the best solution

 

[Infodamoney]

So this is my $10 dollar setup. I have it sitting like this because I have a small leak in the back. Hope fully it helps.



Current FC is about the same, 21.5 or so, we will see tomorrow morning what the FC is, but it's been holding it all day it seems.

I have a CWS game to watch and a cold beer, let the poly-fil do it's thing and change it couple of times tonight.

Keeping my fingers crossed, if I don't loose more than 1.0 FC and my CC is still 0.5, then I'm assuming the algae is dead, then it's on to the iron problem?

Thanks again.

 

[Texas Splash]

I enjoy seeing the creativity of pool owners who have to deal with iron. Sorry Brian. Easy for me to say right? But remember one thing about the SLAM as noted above. If your CYA is 80, then technically your SLAM FC should be 31. That was based on the potential algae situation in the water mentioned earlier. The last thing we want is for you to feel as though the SLAM passed, then move-on to the iron management portion only to have algae return. So I felt compelled to mention that just to be safe.

Other than that, we also hope to see a good transition from SLAM to iron containment to see if the pre-filtering and subsequent lowering of FC (post-SLAM) and sequestrant bring the water color back to life. After the SLAM, don't forget to verify the pH is more on the lower end of the 7 scale - about 7.4 or so. Good luck!

 

[Swampwoman]

Hi again Brian. Basod's interpretation of my post is correct Sorry if it was confusing in haste. And yes, I meant Proteam's Metal Magic.

If you want to beef up your rig, here's a link to previous thread I'd mentioned earlier: Iron Removal.

Same idea but possibly a bit more robust. Cheers to clear.

 

[Infodamoney]

Ok, so I just measured my FC and it was at 21.5 and my CC was at 0, water is looking a bit lighter after using the poly-fil,
I am going to keep letting my homemade filter run, as well as keep stuffing the skimmer.

Since my FC is holding in the OCLT test and my CC is 0, should I proceed with letting the FC drop so I can start the iron out process?

Thanks.

 

[Texas Splash]

Since my FC is holding in the OCLT test and my CC is 0, should I proceed with letting the FC drop so I can start the iron out process?

That's good! No FC loss at all. Yes, you can begin the transition from SLAM to regular water (iron) management. Don't be surprised as the FC drops that the iron oxidation slows-down. So iron filtering may not be as productive at some point. You do have that option of keeping the FC elevated to try and filter-out more iron, or let it fall and see how the water responds. If you decide to let the FC drop, the water color may begin to change more to clear and then you'd want to be ready to have some the Proteam's Metal Magic on-hand as SW recommended.

 

[Infodamoney]

The water is getting clearer thanks to the filter and poly-fil. I can actually see the main drain!! So going to keep continuing that process and letting the FC drop.

Before:



After/So Far:



I ordered 3 quarts of metal magic, hopefully it gets here quickly.
The Proteam Metal Magic, recommends to have the FC at 3 or even better at 1 (If sanitizing with chlorine or bromine, these levels should be at or below 3 ppm. Ideal levels should be around 1 ppm), my concern is, during that time, will I not reintroduce algae?

Thanks, I'm on a way to a clear and better managed pool!! Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[Texas Splash]

during that time, will I not reintroduce algae?

Let's give Swampwoman some time to read your last post and advise on that one. You definitely don't want the algae to return. I suspect you'll always want to keep the FC within the proper recommended range for your CYA as noted on the Chlorine/CYA Chart and never let it drop below the minimum for your CYA. But we'll let her confirm. Good to see some positive changes in that water.

 

[Swampwoman]

The Proteam Metal Magic, recommends to have the FC at 3 or even better at 1 (If sanitizing with chlorine or bromine, these levels should be at or below 3 ppm. Ideal levels should be around 1 ppm), my concern is, during that time, will I not reintroduce algae.

Hi there. Your mileage may vary but I do not drop my FC when I add - for the same reasons you're concerned about. Eg. For me, I've done startup doses with FC at 6 for cya 30. In my case, it worked fine.

I would not add it near Slam level. The reason, or part reason, for the instruction is that high FC breaks down sequestrant faster. However, just like the rest of the industry, the instructions don't really to my mind account for the cya:FC ratio and its buffering effect. Since most mfgs consider a "normal" range up to 3-4 ppm, I suspect that's why they cite this level.

I actually once told Kevin, the proteam tech, that I don't lower my FC and it works fine. But they're not likely to change the recc based on one user who has a FAS/dpd kit at her disposal

Most non TFP pool owners have no clue where their FC efficacy is really at because they have no means to know where their cya is really at. So more specific instructions would be pointless.

In your shoes, I'd actually try to COMPLETELY clear the water of tint if you could stand another few days filtering before you add the sequestrant, because with the clearing you're actually removing the iron itself, which is a rare feat.

Then I might let the FC drift to the bottom of the [fc/cya][/FC/cya] chart for your cya and add, leaving it to work overnight before bring the FC to the upper end of your non-slam chart range.

Don't be alarmed if it clouds the water a bit and takes a few days of filtering to clear. Hope that helps!

Ps - here's an old pic I'd posted last year after I'd added chlorine to my fountain...I think I'd added an ounce or two of metal magic for the second shot

 

[CJadamec]

Pretty impressive what a lil bit of pillow stuffing can do for a pool in a day.

 

[borjis]

Wow what a great thread this is.

The Tea is much more clear!!

Fascinating.

 

[Infodamoney]

Thanks to all.

I am going to follow Swampwoman's advice and keep filtering.
Since my FC was at 21, and my target levels should be 9-11 FC,
I am going to keep going with the process until my FC gets closer to 8-9,
but no lower than 6 and hopefully the metal magic will be here by then, if it's not,
I will just continue to filter and maintain my FC to at least 6 or above.

I can feel my pool getting clearer by the second!

TFP rules!

Thanks,

Brian

 

[aftrshok99]

Out of curiosity, can you clear a pool like yours without using metal magic or does it just take forever without using it?

 

[Swampwoman]

I've seen someone completely clear it by filtering alone with 5 micron 10" filters. (I linked to the thread in my earlier post.)

BUT in this case, Brian is on a well, and presumably will at some point top up again, and may have some light staining from the water tint.

In such a case, at least a startup does of sequestrant is best IMHO. However, by filtering as much as possible out, it means Brian will need LESS sequestrant to maintain going forward, so its good for the pocketbook regardless

The oxidization turned ferrous (invisible) soluable iron into ferric (oxidized iron) which is a larger particle and is filterable. But that doesn't mean its not possible for there still to be some soluable iron in the water, hence the need for sequestrant.

Eg, the poster CKK'S water was clear (per the post I referred to), but still read .2 ppm iron after all that filtering. .2 ppm won't usually stain, but if ph rises too much, etc., it can, and its only .1 ppm away from staining. As water evaporates, the concentration of iron ppm increases.

 

[Infodamoney]

Swampwoman,

I purchased 3 bottles of the Metal Magic; waiting for it to get shipped. I am assuming the first dose would be 1.5 bottles give or take, based on the manufacturers instructions. Unless you have a better answer.

I will have to top off at some point, but hope to do that with a home filter next time, to avoid this. When I do that, I would just add 3-6 oz. in the pool then?

Thanks for all of the advice.

Brian

 

[Swampwoman]

Yes, start up dose is per mfg suggestions, and maintenance dose can be prolonged if no staining but I do add a bit of sequestrant every time I add water, even though I'm pulling from the softer (as there's still .5 out of softner, then through Pentek filter on hose I get that down to roughly .3 give or take. My well is 2 ppm in iron

However, IF you have any staining (you might not) you might need a bit more. Here's a link to a dose test for stains: http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf

 

[basod]

It's really neat to see these very inexpensive methods work on oxidized iron.
I built a bit more of an OCD version of the iron removal filter that can be opearated in both fill mode and side stream polishing mode.https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/120372-Side-stream-metal-removal-filter-Experiment

 

[Teald024]

Question: If letting FC drop will stop the iron from oxidizing, but the oxidized iron allows you to filter it out with the poly, wouldn't it be better to leave the FC level very high (at SLAM level) until all of it gets filtered? Once the poly can no longer get any more oxidized iron out, then let the FC drop. Then add the sequestrant per label instructions. If seems to me that dropping the FC level too soon would an easy way to pull the iron from the water.

The OP did this by accident, but has anyone actually used this method of pulling the iron out on purpose prior to using a sequestrant? Basically upping the FC to oxidize the iron so you can pull it out with the poly filter?

 

[Texas Splash]

wouldn't it be better to leave the FC level very high (at SLAM level) until all of it gets filtered?

That is one way to tackle the issue, but of course the longer the iron is in that state running amuck in the pool, it increases the chances of staining which then requires other treatments (i.e. AA). But sure, physically removing as much as possible is always a good thing. A pool owner just needs to know the consequences of this method and stay vigilant to changes in the pool. Also, many owners simply want that brown gone ASAP and are willing to add sequestrant sooner. And finally, since each pool is different, the FC/iron reaction varies based on the chemical properties in that body of water, so they don't all react the same as this pool.

 

[Infodamoney]

So looks like the water is getting clearer.
I will post a pic when the sun gets up and over the pool. (Can't post any more pics I guess)
My FC is at 16 and my CC is 0, so that's good.
Metal Magic should be here on Friday, so going to keep on filtering.

Trying to keep this thread updated with my progress. I hope that I will be posting clear blue water pics sometime soon.

As of 6:00pm

FC - 14
CC - 0-0.5 (very little if at all tint, so I added a drop, but I bet it's closer to 0)

Brian