The server that runs this site may be low on disk space. When I try to upload a picture, I get an error stating “the uploaded file is too large for the server to process”.
Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?
- Thread starter Chrissu
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,176
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pics need to be less then about 4MB I think. Nothing wrong with the server.
Turn off HDR on your phone or reduce the size of the pic.
Reducing photo size
I am new to TFP and just tried to upload my first picture and got a message that the file was to large. Can someone please let me know how to reduce the file size. Thanks
www.troublefreepool.com
Before:
At one point, I was placing Clorox XtraBlue tablets in the skimmer. That went on for several months. The pump turns off every night so the tabs would just sit there and leach CYA, Copper, and Chlorine.
After:
Thanks to an acid wash, the copper staining came off in a matter of minutes. Before doing an acid wash, I ran my hands over the stained area could feel how the surface of the plaster has been compromised.
At one point, I was placing Clorox XtraBlue tablets in the skimmer. That went on for several months. The pump turns off every night so the tabs would just sit there and leach CYA, Copper, and Chlorine.
After:
Thanks to an acid wash, the copper staining came off in a matter of minutes. Before doing an acid wash, I ran my hands over the stained area could feel how the surface of the plaster has been compromised.
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Before:
After:
Here is a good example of what the jacks magic three step treatment did. I didn’t lower the water level low enough to acid wash anything in these before and after pictures. The plaster looks much better now.
After:
Here is a good example of what the jacks magic three step treatment did. I didn’t lower the water level low enough to acid wash anything in these before and after pictures. The plaster looks much better now.
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- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,019
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I will say that the sand filter continues to pull out a significant amount of crud. I’ve been backwashing every couple of days and it’s always this murky stuff. In this photo, I had opened up the sand filter to check and see if there were signs of channeling. There weren’t but I sifted through it with a running hose anyways. I also added a bag of sand while I was in there. It has been 10 years since the sand filter was put into service.
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Here's a quick update on the pool pad.
- Triclor Tablet Feeder removed.
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus SWCG installed and is now operational.
- Proper backflush plumbing installed.
- Pentair valves installed so that the heater can be bypassed when not in use.
- Unions added so that the Sand filter can be serviced.
These are before shots:
- Triclor Tablet Feeder removed.
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus SWCG installed and is now operational.
- Proper backflush plumbing installed.
- Pentair valves installed so that the heater can be bypassed when not in use.
- Unions added so that the Sand filter can be serviced.
These are before shots:
The cell bypasses the heater. When in heater mode, there is no flow through the cell. When in cell mode, there is no flow through the heater. I did that intentionally as sometimes in the past we would get excessive chlorine in the hot tub while using it. With this solution, we will never have chlorine being added to the hot tub when we are using it. We don’t heat the pool, only the hot tub. For this reason, this is an ideal configuration for our needs.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,813
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Post a few more pics from a few different angles.
In the pic you posted, it appears the output of the filter goes to the SWG, then to a valve that could go the the heater or bypass the heater. That still allows flow thru the SWG regardless of using the heater or not. Where is the SWG flow switch located?
What FC level are you seeing in the spa while using it with the SWG powered?
With a CYA of 50, you can safely enter the water with a FC level between 4 and 20.
Additionally, the SWG flow switch should hot be the primary means to remove power from the SWG. Are you using a separate timer or automation to power/control the SWG?
It needs to be plumbed: pump, filter, heater, SWG
Since you need to manually change the the valves to bypass the heater, you can turn off the SWG manually if needed during spa heating.
The heater bypass needs a check valve on the return line.
www.troublefreepool.com
In the pic you posted, it appears the output of the filter goes to the SWG, then to a valve that could go the the heater or bypass the heater. That still allows flow thru the SWG regardless of using the heater or not. Where is the SWG flow switch located?
What FC level are you seeing in the spa while using it with the SWG powered?
With a CYA of 50, you can safely enter the water with a FC level between 4 and 20.
Additionally, the SWG flow switch should hot be the primary means to remove power from the SWG. Are you using a separate timer or automation to power/control the SWG?
It needs to be plumbed: pump, filter, heater, SWG
Since you need to manually change the the valves to bypass the heater, you can turn off the SWG manually if needed during spa heating.
The heater bypass needs a check valve on the return line.
Heater Bypass - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Additionally, the SWG flow switch should hot be the primary means to remove power from the SWG. Are you using a separate timer or automation to power/control the SWG?
Current:
The pump is controlled by a timer shown below. For the time being, the RG60+ is plugged into an extension cord so I'm dependent on the flow sensor for now.
Planned:
I had an electrician stop over today to look over what I need. He is heading off for his honeymoon this weekend and will be gone for 2 weeks. When he returns, he will tap into the power coming off the timer and install a GFCI outlet. At that point, I'll be able to plug the RG60 into that outlet. That way, the SWCG and pump will both get power via the same timer.
Something else I will need is a doser/tank/timer to supply MA. The MA will be added downstream of the heater and the cell. I may be able to plug the doser into the same timer controlled GFCI outlet that the swcg will use. This way, MA can only be added when the pool pump is running. I'm leaning towards a Stenner setup but am open to suggestions. I would like the MA dosed at the same time each day so I'm wondering if the Stenner controller has a battery to retain settings as to when to dose even when the power was lost the night before. The battery (if there is one) would not to run the pump, but it would/should remember the dosing schedule.
Current:
The pump is controlled by a timer shown below. For the time being, the RG60+ is plugged into an extension cord so I'm dependent on the flow sensor for now.
Planned:
I had an electrician stop over today to look over what I need. He is heading off for his honeymoon this weekend and will be gone for 2 weeks. When he returns, he will tap into the power coming off the timer and install a GFCI outlet. At that point, I'll be able to plug the RG60 into that outlet. That way, the SWCG and pump will both get power via the same timer.
Something else I will need is a doser/tank/timer to supply MA. The MA will be added downstream of the heater and the cell. I may be able to plug the doser into the same timer controlled GFCI outlet that the swcg will use. This way, MA can only be added when the pool pump is running. I'm leaning towards a Stenner setup but am open to suggestions. I would like the MA dosed at the same time each day so I'm wondering if the Stenner controller has a battery to retain settings as to when to dose even when the power was lost the night before. The battery (if there is one) would not to run the pump, but it would/should remember the dosing schedule.
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- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,813
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
A bit unorthodox and not necessarily the way we would advise, but it looks like it works for you.
Having to move two valves to use the heater bypass can lead to problems with dead-heading the pump. This is why a check valve is recommended on the output side of the heater. With your plumbing, you would still have to move both valves - a check valve wouldn't work.
I would still suggest shutting the SWG off manually if using the heater, given your re-plumb. I don't trust the flow switch - and in your install, there may be some turbulence in the water flow near the flow switch (as water exits the filter thru the tee) that may cause it to actuate in the ON position. There have been instances of the SWG being energized and exploding with insufficient water flow inside the cell itself.
What is the issue with a little higher chlorine in the spa? As long as you don't exceed SLAM level (20 ppm FC for your CYA of 50), it's perfectly safe to be in the water.
If you are going to manually shut off the SWG anyway before using the spa, bypassing the SWG when using the heater isn't necessary if you are concerned about higher FC levels in the spa.
I try to think long term and easy. What happens if someone else repositions the bypass valves? What happens when you decide to sell the house somewhere down the road?
I'd still recommend the heater bypass be plumbed as shown in the wiki article.
www.troublefreepool.com
Having to move two valves to use the heater bypass can lead to problems with dead-heading the pump. This is why a check valve is recommended on the output side of the heater. With your plumbing, you would still have to move both valves - a check valve wouldn't work.
I would still suggest shutting the SWG off manually if using the heater, given your re-plumb. I don't trust the flow switch - and in your install, there may be some turbulence in the water flow near the flow switch (as water exits the filter thru the tee) that may cause it to actuate in the ON position. There have been instances of the SWG being energized and exploding with insufficient water flow inside the cell itself.
What is the issue with a little higher chlorine in the spa? As long as you don't exceed SLAM level (20 ppm FC for your CYA of 50), it's perfectly safe to be in the water.
If you are going to manually shut off the SWG anyway before using the spa, bypassing the SWG when using the heater isn't necessary if you are concerned about higher FC levels in the spa.
I try to think long term and easy. What happens if someone else repositions the bypass valves? What happens when you decide to sell the house somewhere down the road?
I'd still recommend the heater bypass be plumbed as shown in the wiki article.
Heater Bypass - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
I appreciate the input. One of the primary goals in the design was to ensure that I can easily switch out the heater in the future if and when it is eventually needed. Using a manual valve instead of a check valve provides that extra benefit.
When we were using the xtraBlue tablets, the smell of chlorine buildup in the hot tub was sometimes quite noticeable. If I remembered to close the valve on the chlorinator reactor before getting in, then it wasn’t a problem. I never bothered to test the recirculating water in the hot tub to figure out the actual level. The reactor was putting out enough chlorine to maintain all 10,000 gallons and when the hot tub was running, I estimate the same amount of chlorine per hour was being dumped into just -400 gallons. Trust me, the odor was bad. Then again, I can’t stand the smell of chlorine (chloramines) in public pools and from whet I have learned here, the sweat off of bodies coming into contact with chloramines has a lot to do with the pungent smell.
This house is our forever home so I m not worried about next owner. Plus, It’s a clean setup IMO. I really like it.
To your point, I should turn off the swcg when using the hot tub. I will do that going forward.
The wife and I used the hot tub tonight and the balanced salt water was a pleasant experience vs unsalted and not so balanced water from the past few years. Definitely worth removing the copper, making the plaster white again, balancing the water the right way, and going back to a swcg.
Thank you to you and the others here who helped turn the pool around for the better. I really appreciate it.
When we were using the xtraBlue tablets, the smell of chlorine buildup in the hot tub was sometimes quite noticeable. If I remembered to close the valve on the chlorinator reactor before getting in, then it wasn’t a problem. I never bothered to test the recirculating water in the hot tub to figure out the actual level. The reactor was putting out enough chlorine to maintain all 10,000 gallons and when the hot tub was running, I estimate the same amount of chlorine per hour was being dumped into just -400 gallons. Trust me, the odor was bad. Then again, I can’t stand the smell of chlorine (chloramines) in public pools and from whet I have learned here, the sweat off of bodies coming into contact with chloramines has a lot to do with the pungent smell.
This house is our forever home so I m not worried about next owner. Plus, It’s a clean setup IMO. I really like it.
To your point, I should turn off the swcg when using the hot tub. I will do that going forward.
The wife and I used the hot tub tonight and the balanced salt water was a pleasant experience vs unsalted and not so balanced water from the past few years. Definitely worth removing the copper, making the plaster white again, balancing the water the right way, and going back to a swcg.
Thank you to you and the others here who helped turn the pool around for the better. I really appreciate it.
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Someone here suggested that I route the backflush water away from the equipment pad. Thanks for that suggestion.
Backflush now flows away from the house and is gravity fed into lake.
Backflush now flows away from the house and is gravity fed into lake.
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