Need some suggestions for trying to repair a crack. I have a circupool sj series generator that has developed a crack in the plastic on the actual cell itself. It is where the plates mount to the plastic and where it seals up against the oring that’s in the housing. I’ve seen some people on here recommend plast-aid. Is that my best bet? Or anyone have any other suggestions? Maybe something available at the local hardware store! The cell is 3 months out of warranty.
Circupool generator crack in cell
- Thread starter BKennedy
- Start date
Yikes! Is the calcium buildup causing the plastic to crack? Then you're CSI is too high. It needs to be kept between -.3 and 0. I have no advice for the fix. Maybe Circupool has that cell end available as a repair part.
Thanks for the reply. I don’t think it’s the calcium causing it to crack. The camera angle is a little deceiving. The calcium isn’t actually making contact where it’s cracked. Unfortunately, circupool doesn’t make a replacement part for that. You have to buy a complete replacement cell. I don’t know why it’s producing so much calcium deposits. This is on my moms pool that I take care of, which is different than the pool I have listed here . Here are the last readings I have. I don’t document every time I check chemicals, but here’s what I have saved on the app. Any suggestions on csi?
Attachments
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,812
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The cell is on the pressure side. There is no safe repair for that cell.
Call Discount Salt Pool and see if they will provide some type of discount on a replacement cell.
For the logs you posted, the CSI has been above zero for all but one report. The CSI needs to be in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range. You do that by adjusting the pH mostly. TA of 60 is just fine.
How often are you testing and adjusting chemicals.
Additionally - and probably most importantly - your FC has been below minimum a few times.
The FC needs to be kept in range based on your CYA. FC/CYA Levels
It's better to keep FC atthe top of the range shown in the chart.
Call Discount Salt Pool and see if they will provide some type of discount on a replacement cell.
For the logs you posted, the CSI has been above zero for all but one report. The CSI needs to be in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range. You do that by adjusting the pH mostly. TA of 60 is just fine.
How often are you testing and adjusting chemicals.
Additionally - and probably most importantly - your FC has been below minimum a few times.
The FC needs to be kept in range based on your CYA. FC/CYA Levels
It's better to keep FC atthe top of the range shown in the chart.
So keeping the ph lower would help keep the csi in range? I cleaned the cell a couple months ago and it has already built back up. It’s not bad on the cell plates, but the bars that the plates mount to the cell lid are covered. I test her pool once a week and make adjustments, I’ve just been bad about logging it. Usually I just have to add muriatic acid. As far as the chlorine, I’ve kept the generator at 100% running about 12 hours a day and it seems it’s having a hard time keeping up. I have noticed the chlorine seems to stay more consistent when I have the cya around 70-80, but some say that’s too high for a salt pool. I have heard about chlorine lock with cya being that high. I don’t know if that’s what’s happening or if the cell is just worn, buts it’s only about 2 1/2 years old. What do you think I should keep my fc and cya at?
Your CYA of 70 is fine for a SWG and you should be keeping your FC between 5-10 ppm but never below 5 and try to keep it on the higher side. Read this:FC/CYA Levels
You should add "Mom's Pool" to your signature so we know what's up with her pool and equipment. A SWG should be sized to handle twice the gallonage of your pool. So and RJ45+ would be for a 22k gallon pool or smaller. Then you should never run the SWG at 100%. They should be no higher than 90% to not overwork them.
Oh, and chlorine lock isn't a thing even if you read it on the internet.
You should add "Mom's Pool" to your signature so we know what's up with her pool and equipment. A SWG should be sized to handle twice the gallonage of your pool. So and RJ45+ would be for a 22k gallon pool or smaller. Then you should never run the SWG at 100%. They should be no higher than 90% to not overwork them.
Oh, and chlorine lock isn't a thing even if you read it on the internet.
Last edited by a moderator:
I’ll see if I can figure out how to add my moms pool as well. Hers is 22k gallons, plaster, salt pool with a SGS/CMP Breeze 540 generator. The cell is a circupool that was swapped out about 2 1/2 years ago. On the SGS controller, my only output options are 25, 50, 75, 100%. I ran it out 75 but it just wasn’t keeping up. Even bumping to 100%, I couldn’t get over 2.5ppm chlorine.
You need to monitor and adjust the pool to the correct CSI level of -.3 to 0. That could be causing the calcium. But you also need to consider that the cell is running out of life now.
The calcium may be inhibiting production, or she may have alage. Or #1 led to #2.
Try the cleaning methods listed here
SWG How It Works - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Then
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 2,253
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
The crack is where the cell meets up against the oring in the housing. It is not making a watertight seal as the water leaks through the small crack and comes out through the plastic threads where the lid screws on.
Even when the cell was clean and calcium free and i didnt see any visible algae, the chlorine level was still low. I will follow these steps though and see what results I get. Thanks!The calcium may be inhibiting production, or she may have alage. Or #1 led to #2.
Try the cleaning methods listed here
SWG How It Works - Further Reading
Then
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Algae is microscopic. By the time you can see it, it's waaaaaaaay too late.
Not performing an OCLT when there are red flags, is how one gets algae so bad they can see it.
postscripto
Member
I'm afraid the cell might be done. I had a similar issue TWICE with the CMP Powerclean Salt Ultra 540 (which is also marketed as the Jacuzzi JSCS40 and/or Circupool RJ45).
I was lucky enough to be under warranty twice. I thought it was 3 years but looks like the jacuzzi is a 5 year warranty for the cell. The best option might be to look for the same style cell with the longest warranty and go for that. I have a feeling that the U shape design of the housing is flawed but I'm stuck with it until I go through the 2 cells I kept. I was going to replace the plates of the cells once they fail because the crack happened before the plates started failing so I'm saving all that good hardware. I tried 2 different types of epoxy and it never stopped leaking.
The bad news is that my power center just fried. Once I opened I noticed that it's wired for 220v and it was connected to a 120v 15A receptacle so that was no good. It was also not grounded so my pool installer failed me. I am going to do this myself from now on! I'm going to post the whole process here in the next few days.
I was lucky enough to be under warranty twice. I thought it was 3 years but looks like the jacuzzi is a 5 year warranty for the cell. The best option might be to look for the same style cell with the longest warranty and go for that. I have a feeling that the U shape design of the housing is flawed but I'm stuck with it until I go through the 2 cells I kept. I was going to replace the plates of the cells once they fail because the crack happened before the plates started failing so I'm saving all that good hardware. I tried 2 different types of epoxy and it never stopped leaking.
The bad news is that my power center just fried. Once I opened I noticed that it's wired for 220v and it was connected to a 120v 15A receptacle so that was no good. It was also not grounded so my pool installer failed me. I am going to do this myself from now on! I'm going to post the whole process here in the next few days.
Attachments
Your cells demonstrate how out of balance your water is which must have quite a high CSI since it's precipitating calcium on your cells.
Were your cells covered at 100%? Mine is still under the 3yr warranty, but they only offered me 40% off a new one.
Nothing has been extremely off on my tests. I’m not sure the best way to lower my csi. My ph was high today, around 8.0-8.2, but other than that, nothing was way off. Maybe up my alkalinity?
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,812
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Raising TA will increase pH and CSI. A TA of 60 is just fine.
Keeping better control of your pH will allow you to better keep CSI in range.
With a SWG, keep CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range to minimize scaling in the SWG.
In PoolMath, you can play around with changing only the pH number to see its affect on CSI.
This will give you a better idea ofwhere to keep pH so CSI stays in range..
Keeping better control of your pH will allow you to better keep CSI in range.
With a SWG, keep CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range to minimize scaling in the SWG.
In PoolMath, you can play around with changing only the pH number to see its affect on CSI.
This will give you a better idea ofwhere to keep pH so CSI stays in range..
postscripto
Member
Yeah I actually got 2 cells replaced for free! (the black one in the photos was the original Jacuzzi one and the blue is the CMP powercell).
The problem is that the power module died recently and that is one covered for one year. Here is their warranty from a recent email:
