Chlorine tests are conflicting

Jkarosa

Member
Jul 31, 2023
6
Snohomish, Wa
Pool Size
8403
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
Hey there!
I have an issue with my chlorine testing… this is the second year we’ve had our pool (12x24 Intex with SWG and sand filter), and also the second year I’ve had my TF test kit (TF-100).

The daily chlorine/ph test says something very different from my weekly chlorine drop test.
It’s showing me somewhere between 0.5-2ppm for my chlorine.
The R-0003 chemical says it expires 03/2025, so theoretically it should still be good.

My weekly FAS/DPD chlorine test says that I’m at 15ppm (using the 10ml cell and dividing the amount of drops of R-0871 by 2; so 30 drops to get water clear in the cell.)

The R-0871 and R-0870 for the FAS/DPD test chemicals don’t have expiry dates on them, which leads me to believe that they stay good indefinitely? I store my kit inside out of direct light, but may have left it out a day here or there this season… (I live in the PNW, so the sun/heat isn’t usually too intense.)

Anyway, some details about what’s been going on lately… we developed some algae a few weeks ago, and I performed the SLAM process using my CYA measurements (75ppm; TFTest kit says this is in normal range for a Saltwater system) and poolmath to figure out that my SLAM chlorine levels should be at 29ppm. Ultimately, I ended up adding seven 121oz bottles of 7.5% liquid chlorine to my pool while abstaining from running my SWG. Throughout the process, I ended up backwashing my filter a few times, and I also added about 1 cup of pool grade DE to my sand filter after the first backwash, as I wasn’t sure what kind of algae I was fighting. I suspected it was mustard algae, and wanted to take extra precautions (not to mention to help speed up the process.)
I followed the instructions on TFP for adding the DE to my filter (monitoring filter pressure, and adding 1/4 cup DE mixed with water at a time to my skimmer until the pressure gauge moved up a notch.)
Then I backwashed again a day or two later when the pressure was in the yellow.

I have notes of logs that I was making on my own— they’re sloppy and probably not as thorough as they should’ve been.. but the pool water has been clear with less than 1ppm loss of TC overnight since 9/1. I haven’t run my SWG since I began the SLAM process at the end of August, and have just naturally been letting my TC levels drop.

My theory is that my R-0003 is bad, because when I was testing often during the SLAM process, my CC readings were always zero.

Any thoughts??


Which test should I trust? As I understand it, the FAS/DPD test is more accurate, so that leads me to believe that my current TC is 15, and not 0.5-2ppm as the daily test tells me.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Hey there!
I have an issue with my chlorine testing… this is the second year we’ve had our pool (12x24 Intex with SWG and sand filter), and also the second year I’ve had my TF test kit (TF-100).

The daily chlorine/ph test says something very different from my weekly chlorine drop test.
It’s showing me somewhere between 0.5-2ppm for my chlorine.
The R-0003 chemical says it expires 03/2025, so theoretically it should still be good.

My weekly FAS/DPD chlorine test says that I’m at 15ppm (using the 10ml cell and dividing the amount of drops of R-0871 by 2; so 30 drops to get water clear in the cell.)

The R-0871 and R-0870 for the FAS/DPD test chemicals don’t have expiry dates on them, which leads me to believe that they stay good indefinitely? I store my kit inside out of direct light, but may have left it out a day here or there this season… (I live in the PNW, so the sun/heat isn’t usually too intense.)

Anyway, some details about what’s been going on lately… we developed some algae a few weeks ago, and I performed the SLAM process using my CYA measurements (75ppm; TFTest kit says this is in normal range for a Saltwater system) and poolmath to figure out that my SLAM chlorine levels should be at 29ppm. Ultimately, I ended up adding seven 121oz bottles of 7.5% liquid chlorine to my pool while abstaining from running my SWG. Throughout the process, I ended up backwashing my filter a few times, and I also added about 1 cup of pool grade DE to my sand filter after the first backwash, as I wasn’t sure what kind of algae I was fighting. I suspected it was mustard algae, and wanted to take extra precautions (not to mention to help speed up the process.)
I followed the instructions on TFP for adding the DE to my filter (monitoring filter pressure, and adding 1/4 cup DE mixed with water at a time to my skimmer until the pressure gauge moved up a notch.)
Then I backwashed again a day or two later when the pressure was in the yellow.

I have notes of logs that I was making on my own— they’re sloppy and probably not as thorough as they should’ve been.. but the pool water has been clear with less than 1ppm loss of TC overnight since 9/1. I haven’t run my SWG since I began the SLAM process at the end of August, and have just naturally been letting my TC levels drop.

My theory is that my R-0003 is bad, because when I was testing often during the SLAM process, my CC readings were always zero.

Any thoughts??


Which test should I trust? As I understand it, the FAS/DPD test is more accurate, so that leads me to believe that my current TC is 15, and not 0.5-2ppm as the daily test tells me.

Any help would be appreciated!
The “daily test” won’t ever match the FAS-DPD as it’s only good up to around 5ppm and can be bleached out if it gets really high making it look low. That’s why I don’t use the daily test thing.

Edit: I was reminded that it’s the DPD test that can get bleached out and not the OTO test.
 
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The OTO chlorine test is not useful for ensuring you stay above minimum per FC/CYA Levels.

I don't believe you should be using the OTO test for "daily" use, and the FAS-DPD test for "weekly" use.
FAS-DPD should be used every time you want to now your FC levels. Many of us simply tossed the OTO test in the trash upon test kit receipt because it has very little value other than confirming if you have some FC in pool.
 
The OTO chlorine test is not useful for ensuring you stay above minimum per FC/CYA Levels.

I don't believe you should be using the OTO test for "daily" use, and the FAS-DPD test for "weekly" use.
FAS-DPD should be used every time you want to now your FC levels. Many of us simply tossed the OTO test in the trash upon test kit receipt because it has very little value other than confirming if you have some FC in pool.
Fair enough.. I was just going by what the instructions in the test kit say, and more so to differentiate. I wasn’t sure what OTO meant, to be honest.. 😅
 

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The “daily test” won’t ever match the FAS-DPD as it’s only good up to around 5ppm and can be bleached out if it gets really high making it look low. That’s why I don’t use the daily test thing.

Edit: I was reminded that it’s the DPD test that can get bleached out and not the OTO test.
Oh, interesting! I’m having the exact opposite effect.. (like what you said before your edit. My DPD test shows 15ppm, and the OTO test is very light yellow.. indicating somewhere between 0.5-2ppm. 🤷‍♀️
 
The “daily test” won’t ever match the FAS-DPD as it’s only good up to around 5ppm and can be bleached out if it gets really high making it look low. That’s why I don’t use the daily test thing.

Edit: I was reminded that it’s the DPD test that can get bleached out and not the OTO tes
I'd order some new 0870 and 0871


They do not.
also, I kind of have more faith in those chemicals being good, considering the SLAM process I went through.. it accurately told me what poolmath recommended I use to get my FC to SLAM level. I almost think the R-0003 is the problem. But it doesn’t sound like anyone takes the OTO test seriously anyway. Lol
 
And also because whenever I added my 5 drops of R-0003 to check my CC during my FAS/DPD testing, nothing ever happened. It always stayed clear and read as 0 CC.
 
Your TF-100 had the FAS-DPD chlorine test that uses R-0870 and R-0871.
The simple DPD test is something different and is in theTaylor K-2005 series and others.
The FAS-DPD is more accurate and can measure FC at high levels as well.

The OTO is basically okay for "do I have any chlorine?' and isn't very accurate comparedto the FAS-DPD test.

After you complete the FAS-DPD (sample goes clear after x number of drops), immediately add 5 drops of R-0003. If the sample stays clear you have 0.0 CC (which is a good thing). If the sample turns pink after adding the R-0003 it means you have CC. Add R-0871, drop by drop, to determine your CC level.
 

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