Chlorine Levels keep dropping

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eddieboysr

0
Feb 13, 2018
16
Fontana CA
My chlorine levels keep dropping. My system is in my sig. my current levels are:
  • FCL 1.1
  • TCL - 1.6
  • PH - 7.3
  • ALY - 130
  • CH - 86
  • CYA ?
My TCL was at 2.8 yesterday, all winter I was getting a brownish build up in the pool. I’m in so cal and this is the first real issue I have had with my pool. We have been using the heater to warm up the pool since it has been a hot week in SoCal. The water looks clear and we are using it but it is just frustrating I keep having the same issue. Added the floater with tabs in the pool since I think something might be wrong with the Nature2 Fusion.

HELP!!!!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Well, a couple big things first:
- You must have a proper test kit. Either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared
- You need to know your CYA. That way you can go to the FC/CYA Levels and find your corresponding FC.

With the FC falling, I suspect you have an early algae bloom trying to grow on you, but without all the test numbers, it's difficult to confirm. Also, avoid using the Fusion. It's adding metals to the water. No bueno. Use regular bleach or liquid chlorine only at this point.

Also see ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
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Hi, welcome to TFP! Usually when we see a lot of chlorine consumption its either the CYA is too low or there are organics in the water consuming the chlorine. You have been using tabs so it may also be the CYA is too high. Nature 2 uses silver and copper to kill algae, problem is they also leave mineral deposits in your water which can fall out of solution and stain the surfaces of the pool. So I think you are dealing with 2 problems, copper staining from the Nature 2 system, and elevated CYA levels.
First thing you need to do is have your water tested for metals, particularly copper. Don't add any more chlorine until you have the metals tested or you may find yourself with bright green water! You also need to test your CYA level. Other than that I recommend getting rid of the Nature 2 system so you are not dumping anymore metals into your water, and getting a high quality FAS/DPD test kit so you can test the water yourself.
 
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eddieboysr said:
I went to Leslie’s a few weeks ago and they said it was just over 100 and not to worry about it.
Click to expand...
Pool store is at it again. :hammer: A CYA over 100 is definitely something to be concerned about. It's extremely difficult to keep the FC high enough to meet the demands of a CYA that high. Just take a look at this: FC/CYA Levels and how the two go together. The pool store is selling you tabs and bags of shock with stabilizer in it. Later they will tell you to drain the pool and sell you more tabs. Ugh.

You really need your own test kit and to manage the water yourself. It's much better and easy to do.
 
CYA over 100 is definitely something to worry about! It prevents your chlorine from being effective against algae and other organics in the water. This ColorQ PRO 7 is the test kit you have listed in your signature. It should test CYA up to 125 ppm. It doesn't give you a number value?
 
eddieboysr said:
No it doesn’t. It just says “hi”
Click to expand...
I suspect you are encountering one of the limitations of that ColorQ. If you had a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, you could perform a dilution CYA test to get a better idea of your true CYA. I know purchasing one of these kits may seem questionable to new members when there seems to be so many other options available, but the #1 problem we see on this forum is bad pool chemistry and the impact it has on water or equipment from using test strips or following pool store tests & advice. The sooner you get your own proper test kit, the sooner you'll be able to fix the water chemistry once and for all.
 

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Then you will need to use a lot more liquid chlorine to sanitize the pool, and you will have a very difficult time getting rid of algae. It is safe to swim up to slam levels, provided you can see the bottom of the deep end in your pool. It will be quicker overall to clear the pool now than to wait until the water turns cloudy and green.
 
zea3 said:
Then you will need to use a lot more liquid chlorine to sanitize the pool, and you will have a very difficult time getting rid of algae. It is safe to swim up to slam levels, provided you can see the bottom of the deep end in your pool. It will be quicker overall to clear the pool now than to wait until the water turns cloudy and green.
Click to expand...
Is the easiest way to drain buying a pump?
 
eddieboysr said:
Is the easiest way to drain buying a pump?
Click to expand...

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

You can rent a pump at Home Depot and drain it fast and refill. If you do that, drain in late afternoon and refill over night. You do not want hot, direct sun to shine on your plaster.

Or you can buy a small sump pump via Amazon or at Harbor Freight and do the water exchange. Your choice.
 
Are you going to go by the ColorQ CYA reading you did? If so, you should drain about 75%.
 

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