Chlorine levels/closing pool

[jessab]

Hi all, this will be my first winter with a pool and my pool builder is closing this year as part of the build “package”. I hadn’t found this site yet upon installation, so I was sold and was initially using the Frog leap system, but have since switched to using just liquid chlorine and my pool has been beautiful and pretty well balanced all year since. The problem with this PB closing my pool is that I don’t know exactly when it’s going to happen as his communication is horrendous. I believe it will be either today or tomorrow, but can’t say for sure. Here are my concerns and questions:

-do I need to be sure every leaf is cleaned out before covering (this is my goal, but they’re falling my and blowing like crazy)?

-I don’t plan to use any algaecide (the frog system used copper and it still registers at 0.4) and was thinking I’d just bring FC up to SLAM levels and call it good. Is this an ok plan?

-do I need to worry about pH anymore after SLAMming/before covering/no longer running pump?

Here are my test results from this morning:

FC: 9.8
CYA: 70 (this got a little out of hand before switching to LC)
TA: 100
pH: 8.0 (I added MA per pool math and will retest later)

I’m worried that I’m going to dump in a bunch of chlorine and then he’s going to show up, and I won’t be able to address anything else.

Thanks in advance for any help y’all can offer!

 

[PoolStored]

-do I need to be sure every leaf is cleaned out before covering (this is my goal, but they’re falling my and blowing like crazy)?

No, but the cleaner the pool the better.

-I don’t plan to use any algaecide (the frog system used copper and it still registers at 0.4) and was thinking I’d just bring FC up to SLAM levels and call it good. Is this an ok plan?

I would lower your pH to 7.4-7.6 before you raise FC to SLAM level. Ideally, you want to circulate for 12-24 hours at SLAM level FC, but it is not critical.

-do I need to worry about pH anymore after SLAMming/before covering/no longer running pump?

Once you raise FC to SLAM, pH test will be invalid. Lower pH and confirm before raising FC.

In the future, use a 10mL sample for your FAS-DPD testing of FC. Each drop is .5 FC. This will save reagent.

Here are your closing guides for more info:

Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.

www.troublefreepool.com

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jessab]

No, but the cleaner the pool the better.

I would lower your pH to 7.4-7.6 before you raise FC to SLAM level. Ideally, you want to circulate for 12-24 hours at SLAM level FC, but it is not critical.

Once you raise FC to SLAM, pH test will be invalid. Lower pH and confirm before raising FC.

In the future, use a 10mL sample for your FAS-DPD testing of FC. Each drop is .5 FC. This will save reagent.

Here are your closing guides for more info:

Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.

www.troublefreepool.com

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you!