Chlorine gone and all levels perfect

[No chlorine Todd]

Hello gang!
New pool was Installed in 18’
OmniLogic
Tcell13
VS pump blah blah blah….

Everything was perfect for years super easy no hassle. Then one day chlorine gone. Test for phosphates none. Nitrates… a level of 1-2. Not enough to worry about I’m told.

Replace the cell with new TcellS340.
Never made chlorine that shows up in water test. I’m 3.5 months of liquid chlorine every Saturday.
Florida heat yes.
Typically stabilizer reading 60-70(this week I tried raising to 80)
PH 7.6
Salt reading 3300
Shows amps of 6.5
Voltage of 24.29
OmniLogic is up to date.

I did a bucket test and had a blank installed while pool runs and you can see the water boil out of the cell.

The pic is showing two different configurations of salt cell but the first pic is current

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.
How are you testing your pool water chemistry?

You likely have algae. Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[Jimrahbe]

Todd,

With a CYA of 70 ppm, you should have been keeping your FC at about 7 ppm.

I suspect you were keeping your FC at about 1 or 2 ppm..

That is why you have algae, even if you can't see it yet.

It appears that your SWCG is making chlorine.. Two things consume your FC, the sun and algae.

With a CYA of 70, I doubt it is the sun.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[No chlorine Todd]

Welcome to the forum.
How are you testing your pool water chemistry?

You likely have algae. Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Taking it to local pool store and they do it. Every Saturday religiously. Had it tested one week out of frustration on a disc machine. All the readings pretty much always come back as they should just zero FC about every 7th day

 

[No chlorine Todd]

Todd,

With a CYA of 70 ppm, you should have been keeping your FC at about 7 ppm.

I suspect you were keeping your FC at about 1 or 2 ppm..

That is why you have algae, even if you can't see it yet.

It appears that your SWCG is making chlorine.. Two things consume your FC, the sun and algae.

With a CYA of 70, I doubt it is the sun.

Thanks,

Jim R.

So are you suggesting I treat for algae? I’ve backwashed the DE filter pretty heavily 2 weekends ago. Meticulously washed the cartridge for the spa the same time since they share a return and it’s same body of water really.
On the 7th day FC is 0

 

[Newdude]

On the 7th day FC is 0

That's the trouble with weekly testing. Was it 0 on day 7, or day 2 ? Forget the inaccuracies of the pool store for a moment, the infrequency is far worse.

You need a Test Kits Compared.

With it you can SLAM Process

 

[Jimrahbe]

So are you suggesting I treat for algae? I’ve backwashed the DE filter pretty heavily 2 weekends ago

Todd,

Algae is a chemical issue. It is not a mechanical issue.. You can clean your filter everyday, and that will not kill algae.. That is not what the filter is for..

We don't "treat" for algae in the way I suspect you do.. We don't just add some shock and algicide.. We do something called a SLAM. It is a process and not a one time treatment.



Generally, before we recommend a SLAM, we recommend an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT. If you fail the OCLT, you do the SLAM.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[HermanTX]

Taking it to local pool store and they do it. Every Saturday religiously. Had it tested one week out of frustration on a disc machine. All the readings pretty much always come back as they should just zero FC about every 7th day

When you use LC it is not recommended to dump and forget on a weekly basis. The initial high FC level tends to burn off more quickly and if only testing once a week, how do you know your FC hit zero on day 5 or day 7? The FC should never drop below some minimum - refer to
FC/CYA Levels

When I was using LC, I initially tested daily and added LC daily. As I understood the pool and effects of UV on the pool, I moved to testing every 2nd day but I still added LC every day. This way my FC never dropped below my desired target. It may have varied between 5 to 8ppm but never below 5ppm. I never had algae.

 

[dfwnoob]

Long term trouble free water chemistry is not - nor will ever be - possible using pool store testing and methodology.

You need your own test kit, either a Taylor K2006-C or a TFTestKits.net TF-100/TF Pro. Both use the same reagents, but the TFTestKits.net models are the best bang for the buck.

You are already miles ahead of many new members here by already having a SWCG. Just get the test kit and take full ownership of your water chemistry and we can get this sorted out.

 

[No chlorine Todd]

All very good info guys! Thank you for taking the time to reply. I did add an algecide (stop yellow) before I posted so I know that burns off chlorine also. I went and purchased a chlorine test kit just now and will work through this issue in the next few days as I drop and stabilize because of the stop yellow.
I do appreciate you all!

 

[mknauss]

If you can, post the ingredients of the Stop Yellow.
Let us hope it is NOT sodium bromide.

 

[dfwnoob]

womp womp..

 

[mknauss]

Next question, how much was added. It takes very little to make this pool a Bromine pool.

 

[No chlorine Todd]

2 bags.

 

[mknauss]

That is why you are not testing any FC. An chlorine generated creates bromine. Bromine is not protected from UV by CYA, so it quickly disappears.

You will need to drain the pool and fill with fresh water and start over to recover.

 

[No chlorine Todd]

The bags of stop yellow went on yesterday. I’ve been testing no chlorine for 3.5 months. I’ll see what happens when I try the SLAM