Chlorine drops when filter is on

I must admit I'm not familiar with the eco monitor, but my gut would tell me that just like conventional methods, testing can become skewed when the water is not moving. That's why we always recommend letting the water circulate for at least 30 minutes before grabbing a test sample if the pump was off.
 
I know nothing about the EcO either, but it looks to be based on ORP technology. Just from reading here, I've gathered that ORP is not a particularly great way to figure out how much chlorine is in the water. I digress, perhaps others can better answer your question if they know the probe is ORP. But I should warn you that it's not a technology that we rely on to either teach or practice the TFP method of pool water maintenance. Mostly due to that fact that TFP methods require more accurate water testing than ORP can provide.

I've also read here that ORP is sensitive to the presence of CYA. I think a CYA above 30 causes it problems. Do you use CYA in your water? Do you know what its level is?

If you're interested in what we do here, start with our Basics:

 
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It’s an ORP sensor. It measures ORP. That’s not the same as chlorine. ORP is affected by more things (pH, CYA levels, UV light, temperature, water flow, etc) and therefor subject to weird fluctuations. Your choices are either to ignore it, try to replace the sensor and see if that helps, or go back to doing actual chlorine testing using a proper test kit.

All of these remote pool sensors are the same - expensive toys that produce garbage results. You can buy yourself years worth of accurate and reliable test kits for the cost of one of these units.
 
You can buy yourself years worth of accurate and reliable test kits for the cost of one of these units.
And your particular unit requires periodic replacement of a significant amount of its guts. So it'll be an ongoing expense (~$100 every two years) that could more than fund the periodic replacement of the reagents used in the test kit that @JoyfulNoise is referring to.

I don't point that out to make you feel bad about your investment, but rather to make you aware of a better way to care for your pool water. We believe in what we do here because we know it works, and we love to share it with others. If your EcO doesn't work out for you, do consider learning more about TFP methods and the test methods we recommend.
 
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Geez I am so sorry. Somehow all the emails from TFP were going to my spam and I didn’t see them. We know it’s not perfect and we still do the regular water tests weekly but after two summers of nothing but problems and constant trips to the pool store to buy hundreds of dollars of supplies it helps us to feel a little better.
 
we still do the regular water tests weekly
That may be the problem. You need to test your FC with your FAS-DPD kit daily, at least until everything is operating normally and you have reached the point where you can predict what the reading is going to be everyday before you take it. Then you may be able to fall back to every other day or so, as long as you are able to continue predicting the value accurately.
 
Newpool,

Please read "Pool Care Basics" up in Pool School. If that all makes sense to you we will gladly help you get your costs under control and your pool crystal clear.

You should start with one of the test kits we suggest Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared.

Stay out of the Pool Store. When your kit arrives, we would like to see a full set of tests from that. Trust your own testing and post it up. We'll help you if there are errors. Then, based on that information, we can advise you of the steps to take and the order.

Until your kit get's in, keep around 5 ppm of chlorine in your pool.

disregard that ORP sensor. It has let you down and will only get worse.
 
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