Chlorinator OFF/ Low Flow Message / Pump On/Need Help

parkinsmith

Gold Supporter
Apr 30, 2021
207
Clifton Texas, Lake Whitney
Hi

New pool 8 months old.
Getting chlorinator off / low flow , message , must have come on overnight. Pump is running no problems. Running it at 2760rpm
Have no idea what is causing this or how to fix it. Should I call the Hayward guy to come out?

I have checked skimmers , backwashed, emptied pump basket and eyeballed the flow switch. Not sure what else I can do? I am not very technically inclined.

Some questions
What are likely causes ? Could the switch go bad this soon ?
Could low salt cause this message ? ( I am out of salt testing agents waiting on my Taylor delivery) The auto reading on the panel is 2900 but is always shows a slightly higher number than when I test with Taylor kit
I have turned the cell off as I am guessing it's not good to have it on if there is no flow. Is this correct ?
My Chlorine is 9 this AM. I had it bumped up to 10 for a party . It is very hot in Texas and getting hotter by the day, at what point should I begin to add liquid chlorine ?

Grateful for any insight and help .

Jennifer
 

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Begin adding liquid chlorine NOW!

Your flow switch may have failed.

You can test the flow switch using a multimeter. You can also jumper the flow switch connection with the pump running to test if the flow switch is not completing the circuit.
 
Last edited:
Begin adding liquid chlorine NOW!

Your flow switch may have failed.

You can test the flow switch using a multimeter. You can also jumper the flow switch connection with the pump running to test if the flow switch is not completing the circuit.
Got on adding Chlorine now ! As far as jumper the flow switch connection, how exactly would I do that? I am not great with electrical or mechanical but I am willing to try that if it is simple :)
 
What ever happened to the marble deck?
Hi

Thanks for asking !

So the short answer on the deck saga .. never really was resolved. The pool company went MIA and never responded with regard to getting it fixed.

I had both a restoration guy and someone who specialized in sandblasting come out. This was all in the middle of my husbands hip replacement. The sandblasting guy said he did not think that would work. He tested several extra pieces we had and advised against trying to sand blast the damage off the surface . The restoration guy tried a resurfacing device. We tested that on a small area and it made it into an ice skating rink . He then neutralized the deck , cleaned it and sealed it and now we live with it .

We had thought about taking legal action against the pool company but in the end did not want that drama. I did reach out to the BBB. We are now just enjoying the pool ...except for the possible broken flow switch :)
 
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Got on adding Chlorine now ! As far as jumper the flow switch connection, how exactly would I do that? I am not great with electrical or mechanical but I am willing to try that if it is simple :)

Do you have a multimeter?

Can you find the flow switch in your plumbing and identify the wire that runs from the flow switch into your Hayward panel? If not post some pics do your equipment pad and we can try and point up the flow switch.
 
Do you have a multimeter?

Can you find the flow switch in your plumbing and identify the wire that runs from the flow switch into your Hayward panel? If not post some pics do your equipment pad and we can try and point up the flow switch.
I do not have a multimeter ( dont know what that is :) . I did find the flow switch and traced the wire . It looks like it goes up into the panel box inside of it somewhere . Here are a few pics. The wire from it runs through that hole in the bottom of the panel box .
 

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Ok, so open up the panel and follow the wire to where it connects to the board.

Turn off the beaker to the panel if you open it up to look into it.
 
ok will do that once i do that what am i looking for or what would be the next steps ?
See where the flow switch is connected. Disconnect the two flow switch wires. Take a short piece of wire and loop it to the two connection points with the pump running and see if the NO FLOW message goes away.
 

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See where the flow switch is connected. Disconnect the two flow switch wires. Take a short piece of wire and loop it to the two connection points with the pump running and see if the NO FLOW message goes away.
Thanks for the info sounds a bit above my pay grade :) but will give it a try . I do have a question , how can I be getting No Flow messages while at the same time the pump is running great and water coming out of jets great? What causes this no flow when everything I can see is working well . Filiter pressure is great , no issues with the backwash etc .
 
The flow switch is next to a tab feeder, which tells me the flow switch metal tang is probably corroded off.

I would get a new flow switch and replace it.

The tabs feeder can also damage the cell and it can trap hydrogen gas, which makes it dangerous.

I would remove the tab feeder.

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What causes this no flow when everything I can see is working well . Filiter pressure is great , no issues with the backwash etc .

The system does not have your eyeballs. It relies on the flow switch to tell it if everything is working well. If the switch has broken then the system gives the NO FLOW message regardless of what the system is actually doing.
 



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Hey James

I just realized this post you sent me might pertain to something the Hayward tech I had out to look at my pump told me. He saw my system a few weeks ago and told me it was missing a non -corrosive check valve that was supposed to have been put in during the build . He said not having it could void my equipment warranty ? The part page he gave me says Spring Check Valve, Here is a pic of what he said I needed , the bid for adding it and a pic of my equipment. The bid also references needing to move the flow switch ?

Can you take a look and tell me what you think? Is this something I need to do ? Could this affect the no flow messages I am getting?
 

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I would remove the tab feeder.

The flow switch is probably damaged and I would get a new one to replace the current flow switch.
I don't use the tab feeder so I can have that removed, the tech guy will bring a new flow switch, any insight to that part he wants to install ? The non corrosive valve? If I have him remove the feeder do I still need that non corrosive valve ?
 
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