Chlorinator Control Unit vs Cell

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pgjohnson

Well-known member
Jun 21, 2015
102
Australia
Hi,

My pool is currently not producing enough chlorine even with cover on all the time. Running pump for 8 hours on maximum output with a chlorinator that generates 35g/h. This seems to have happened suddenly as it was fine a month or so back.

Tests Done
  • Can see change in mist/bubbles in cell when I adjust the chlorine output on control unit.
  • Take water sample - chlorine level close to 0
  • Take sample direct from return pipe - gives reading about 1ppm with chlorinator set at maximum (I was sure in the past this read very high and not the low currently showing ie. darker red)

Trying to determine if there is any way of working out whether it is the control unit or just the cell. Control unit is about 9 years old and not sure of cell but at least 3 years old but could be much greater than that.

Think I will try add some liquid chlorine just to keep pool going and also test overnight chlorine loss (although does seem more like chlorine generator not working)

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Before you blame your SWG check if you have algae consuming the chlorine being produced.

See if your pool passes the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail the test you need to follow the SLAM Process to get algae free water.

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So did an OCLT. Loss seems around 1ppm, possibly 1.5ppm. Would this be a fail being +- 0.5 out?

Pool is the cleanest/clearest I've ever seen it and CC are 0.

Still thinking a chlorinator that outputs 35g/h on max output should maintain or even increase the chlorine level slightly even if slight algae present but will repeat the OCLT test again tonight.
 
Do what should be a quick SLAM Process.

Here is a thread with a similar OCLT result who saw the difference after.

Getting a Jandy TrueClear replacement SWG cell

Aloha! I will be getting a new/replacement TrueClear SWG cell. I live in an island so ETA for the cell is about a week. The control panel of the SWG cell is intermittently reading to check cell and chlorinating at 30% (my setting). I did clean out the cell to make sure it just needs...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Also do you test chlorine before and after you add it. So once at SLAM level, leave for a few hours, test, if dropped add chlorine, then test after to see you have added enough?
How often to test during day?
Thanks
 
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pgjohnson said:
How often to test during day?
Click to expand...
Directly from the SLAM Process article that was linked above.
Test the FC level and add enough chlorine to bring FC up to SLAM level 3-4 times per day.
  • The more often you can test and add FC, the faster your SLAM will proceed. However, you should not test and add more often than every two hours.
  • At the beginning of your SLAM, the chlorine is used quickly to kill algae. As the algae is killed off, you can reduce your testing and chlorine additions to 2-3 times per day.
  • We recommend testing after sunset and at sunrise to check if algae is consuming chlorine in the absence of sunlight (see OCLT).
 
Thanks so much. As I mentioned before my pool is crystal clear but guess still algae present.
OCLT test 2 nights ago: FC 5 - night FC 3.5 - morning
Added some liquid chlorine
OCLT test last night ago: FC 6.5 - night FC 4 - morning
Will do SLAM then once complete will deal with my chlorinator which I suspect not producing enough, max output with cover on pool and not increasing.
 

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Ended up sending in my chlorinator for a check anyway before SLAM.

Repair/Check process:
  • 1st day, they said all fine, I said I don't think so please recheck
  • 2nd day said cell not good, I said can still see gases in cell and changing intensity when change chlorinator output. They said that odd situation when it reverses polarity it is not working in one direction, I said seems strange as can see gases?
  • 3rd day got cell back, no gases at all, even when I change output up or down. Very quickly even on low output says low salt which is not correct (levels checked). Inspected cell a bit closer and seems like they switched out cell and did not give mine back :( Either way cell is about 5 years old and if not working well then need a new one.
2 Questions for the experts:
  1. When you see gases in the cell, can it still mean its not producing chlorine or very little even though gases are intense? So even if set to max could it be producing nothing or even the equivalent of a new cell on minimum?
  2. Cell shows no gases and changing output on chlorinator still shows 0 on chlorinator even though graphic shows output set. Very quickly low salt indicator comes on. Does this mean the cell is done/dead which is fine but can it mean the chlorinator is not working? Happy to get a new cell as mine was about 5 years old but hoping the chlorinator still ok?
Thanks for all the assistance.
 
Maybe your mates are familiar with how your Astral Viron SWG works - @mgtfp @aussieta @AUSpool

Most of the SWGs sold in the US are constant voltage and current and are switched on and off to control the generation %. That is very simple electronic controls circuitry.

I suspect the Astral may control the generation % through variable voltage and current. It is always running and generating with the voltage and current varying the chlorine output. That may account for what you are observing. And I don't know what is normal with that type of control circuitry.

At 5 years old I would begin by replacing the cell.
 
With the chlorinator on its second cell I would be wanting to check that its not the box before getting a new cell. There are places around that repair pumps and chlorinators. All brands on bishop street Kelvin Grove is one that is close to me. A V35 at 100% should provide about 2-3ppm FC output above the bulk water FC level.

Edit: If you’re comfortable with a multimeter you should be getting 5.5amps with it on max. But be aware that these SWG’s have a soft start and finish meaning it won’t power up for about 5 minutes after the pump and cell are activated on a normal cycle.
 
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So still think I am having an issue producing chlorine (new cell - 1 month old). Passed an OCLT.

1. Ran chlorinator at 100% (10 hours) with cover on most of the day - FC increased by 1ppm
2. Ran chlorinator at 100% after sun down (3 hours) - no change in FC level

So what concerns me is point 2 above.
From my post higher up, could the control unit cause no chlorine production in one polarity direction, even though I can see intense gases through the cell during this 3 hour run?

Could I manually reverse (like change wires around) the cell and check out pool return chlorine level to test?
Is it possible to know which direction polarity is?

Just trying to work out how I could diagnose this?
 
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