Chemical Questions

papadoppa

Gold Supporter
Dec 25, 2021
102
Phoenix Arizona
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good evening. I test my pool FC and pH almost daily as I'm still trying to dial in my SWG and pH fluctuates quite a bit. Anyways, weekly I have my water tested at the local Ace Hardware and fact check myself. The old guy behind the counter doesn't try to sell me anything as he put it "I make money off of grills, not pool chemicals. This is just an added service for our customers"

I got my water tested today and was curious if anyone thinks things are going well or if I need to make any adjustments:
FC--2.4
TC--2.6
CC--0.2
pH 7.8
Salt--3300 ppm
hardness--272 ppm
Alkalinity--97 ppm
CYA--38 ppm
Copper--.3 ppm
Iron--.1 ppm
Phosphate--870 ppb
Temp--84*

Pool Math says I'm almost perfect which is reassuring. Also reassuring is that my readings at home were right in line with the hardware store's. That said in Pool Math there's no mention of copper, phosphate or iron. The old guy behind the counter said I'm great but the paper printout said my copper was high and I should buy some stuff (seaklear Metal Klear) and the same with phosphates and I should buy some stuff (orenda PR-10,000) but again the clerk was a-okay with my water.

Can anyone chime in and give me a thumbs up or any sort of criticism? Pool looks great, been having get togethers on the weekends with toddlers (play dates) and want to make sure my water is tip top for the kiddos.

Thank you
 
As much as you like the old guy who does your water testing we have learned we can't rely on store water testing. Get your own test kit - either the Taylor K-2006C or TF100 Test Kits - and we will be happy to provide advice.


I would look into what chemicals you are using that are adding copper into your pool water.

 
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As much as you like the old guy who does your water testing we have learned we can't rely on store water testing. Get your own test kit - either the Taylor K-2006C or TF100 Test Kits - and we will be happy to provide advice.


I would look into what chemicals you are using that are adding copper into your pool water.

I have the Taylor k-2006
I used GLB sequa sol at startup
I only used acid, liquid chlorine for the first month then started the SWG so I added salt and stabilizer. That’s all I’ve done.

Should I use more of the GLB to assist in filtering the copper?
 
I have the Taylor k-2006

Then post a set of tests from your K-2006

I used GLB sequa sol at startup
I only used acid, liquid chlorine for the first month then started the SWG so I added salt and stabilizer. That’s all I’ve done.

Should I use more of the GLB to assist in filtering the copper?

Where did your fill water come from?

The GLB may keep the copper from staining your pool but it will not get filtered out.
 
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I’m on city water.
All of my readings were nearly the same as the store’s. I like to go verify my reagents are still good and I didn’t error. It’s a simple fact check of myself. I just can’t test for phosphates and metals afaik.

FC--2.5
TC-2.5
pH 7.8
Salt--3200 ppm. 3600 on intellicenter
hardness--300 ppm
Alkalinity--100 ppm
CYA--40
Temp--84* both were my pool’s Intellicenter which matched within my rubber ducky
 
If it were my pool, I'd bump FC up to 4-5ppm, even though officially at 2.5 you're in the "normal" range.
I’m at n 4.4 now n just. Added 6% to. SWG but it’s the beginning of the day. I suspect by tonight it’ll drop down a bit and balance out over the next week or so.

Any thoughts about the copper?
 
From the article posted above:

Copper can only be permanently removed from pool water by replacing the water.

In general, less than 0.5 ppm copper will likely not have much effect on pool water. 0.3 ppm is even safer. Over 0.5 ppm you may have some staining or water discoloration, depending on pH.

I would use one of the recommended sequestrants and manage the level down over time, being sure not to add any more copper going forward.
 
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How old are your reagents? What are the expiration dates on the bottles?

How many hours per day is the SWG running? At what percentage?

Increase your CYA to 70 as you have a SWG. Use the FC/CYA Levels, set for SWG pools, and keep your FC at or above target level for your CYA. A CYA level of 40 is way too low in the Phoenix area and your SWGis working harder to maintain the FC level needed.

With continued acid additions to lower your pH, theTA will come down. Shoot for a TA of about 60. This will help keep the pH from rising quickly.

Go to a different pool store and have them ONLY test for copper and iron. Report back with those results.
Are you noticing any staining on the pool surface or are any blonde haired swimmers hair turning green?
 
How old are your reagents? What are the expiration dates on the bottles?

How many hours per day is the SWG running? At what percentage?

Increase your CYA to 70 as you have a SWG. Use the FC/CYA Levels, set for SWG pools, and keep your FC at or above target level for your CYA. A CYA level of 40 is way too low in the Phoenix area and your SWGis working harder to maintain the FC level needed.

With continued acid additions to lower your pH, theTA will come down. Shoot for a TA of about 60. This will help keep the pH from rising quickly.

Go to a different pool store and have them ONLY test for copper and iron. Report back with those results.
Are you noticing any staining on the pool surface or are any blonde haired swimmers hair turning green?
Reagents were bought about 3 months ago and expire 9/23.

Thanks! I never saw that I could change from liquid to salt!! I’ll raise my cya over the next 24 hours, add sequestration and text on Monday.

My pump runs at 800rpm 24/7 at currently 28%. I only run it all the time because lots of bougainvillea leaves in my area.
No stains. No changing color hair.
 

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