Check Valve

[IL_WS]

I'm in the process of replacing my heater. My previous heater didn't have a check valve between the heater and in-line puck chlorinator. I only use the pucks when I'm away for a weekend or want to slowly increase CYA (and add chlorine). I always run my pump on a timer, so I understand that the heater will experience high pH when pucks are present and the pump is off. I want to avoid this going forward.

My question has been answered many times, but I keep having difficulty executing an effective search on this site. What check valve do I want? I remember that the metal springs in the Jandy can be affected ny high pH over time. I also remember that the flapper kinds can warp if exposes to high heat from heater (not running pump for long enough after heater shut down).

 

[mknauss]

To be honest, the best way is for those times you use pucks is to run the pump 24/7. Or use a floater during those times.

The Jandy check valves are still the best so you can repair them.

 

[jblizzle]

Just a minor correction, the tablets are very acidic which results in a local low pH when the pump is off. This acidic water making it back to the heater can erode the copper tubes.

I agree that the Jandy Neverlube should work.

Or ditch the tablet feeder and forget about the check valve and add a SWG ... or just use a tablet floater when on vacation.

 

[IL_WS]

Thank you both for your information (and pH correction). I may just remove the chlorinator since I also have a Zodiak Nature cartridge that I have inline that I've not used since finding TFP.