Check Valve

IL_WS

Well-known member
Sep 18, 2012
125
IL, NW of Chicago
I'm in the process of replacing my heater. My previous heater didn't have a check valve between the heater and in-line puck chlorinator. I only use the pucks when I'm away for a weekend or want to slowly increase CYA (and add chlorine). I always run my pump on a timer, so I understand that the heater will experience high pH when pucks are present and the pump is off. I want to avoid this going forward.

My question has been answered many times, but I keep having difficulty executing an effective search on this site. What check valve do I want? I remember that the metal springs in the Jandy can be affected ny high pH over time. I also remember that the flapper kinds can warp if exposes to high heat from heater (not running pump for long enough after heater shut down).
 
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mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
30,001
Laughlin, NV
To be honest, the best way is for those times you use pucks is to run the pump 24/7. Or use a floater during those times.

The Jandy check valves are still the best so you can repair them.
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 19, 2010
43,238
Tucson, AZ
Just a minor correction, the tablets are very acidic which results in a local low pH when the pump is off. This acidic water making it back to the heater can erode the copper tubes.

I agree that the Jandy Neverlube should work.

Or ditch the tablet feeder and forget about the check valve and add a SWG ... or just use a tablet floater when on vacation.
 

IL_WS

Well-known member
Sep 18, 2012
125
IL, NW of Chicago
Thank you both for your information (and pH correction). I may just remove the chlorinator since I also have a Zodiak Nature cartridge that I have inline that I've not used since finding TFP.