Check Salt and inspect cell flashing

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

miatawnt2b

0
Jan 18, 2016
157
Tucson, AZ
Just yesterday my SWG system took a dump. What do these diagnostic numbers mean to you? Over the past 2 weeks or so I have noticed my Salt number go from 3100 gradually lower and lower every couple days. Last week the Aquarite read 2600. I have verified pool salt concentration with a Taylor drop test to be in the 3000ppm range

Hayward Aquarite T-15
2.5
37
26.5
6.78
72p
-2.5
AL-0
r1.59
T-15

wondering if I'm dealing with a dead cell or a bad controller.
-J
 
Last edited:
The unit got changed to metric. Go to the temperature (37 Celsius) and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to change the unit back to US measurements.

37 C is 98.6 Fahrenheit. If your water isn't that warm, the temperature sensor is going bad.

What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?

If the settings are randomly changing, you should reset the display board.

 
Cleaned the cell, same issue. Took the cell to two different Leslie's to have it tested on the Hayward test system and it passed both times.
So I'm guessing it might be the controller. Just don't understand the 2.5 number.
I'll have to remove the board and see if anything looks burnt.
 
The unit got changed to metric. Go to the temperature (37 Celsius) and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to change the unit back to US measurements.

37 C is 98.6 Fahrenheit. If your water isn't that warm, the temperature sensor is going bad.

What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?

If the settings are randomly changing, you should reset the display board.

 
The system is working. The high temperature reading is causing the low salinity reading if the water is not really 99 degrees.

What is the water temperature?

There's a hack that can be done if the temperature sensor is bad, but it's only worth doing if the cell is still good and not under warranty.

How old is the cell?
 
So..... what's the hack? The cell is a generic, 2.5 years old and not under warranty.

EDIT: Now that I'm thinking about it, I was looking at the temp while the solar panels were heating water. The Cell is downstream of those obviously. Pool is currently 87* and the cell is reading 92.
 
Last edited:
Your cell might be dying. Check the instant salinity and then move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Moving the switch to off and then back to auto reverses the polarity. The instant salinity should be about the same in both polarities.

You can change the cell type to a T-9 to get a little bit more life out of the cell.
 
I actually thought about experimenting with the T9 setting but for a different reason. I thought I could probably get away with setting the cell to T9 and keeping a lower salt content in the pool. Would take some experimentation to get it set up correctly but I think it should work. I'd imagine this is exactly what Hayward does with the low salt version of the aquarite sold in Canada.

I don't think I can complain too much about the Generic cell I bought from PoolSupplyWorld. It's been going 2.5 years in AZ running about 10-12 hours a day on 50-80% from April-Sept then 25% March,October. Don't know how much Chlorine that is, but I would definitely be spending more in liquid.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
It's a standard 10k thermistor. It's the same one as the Hayward or Pentair automation.

You can mount it in the plumbing and use it in place of the existing thermistor.

AquaRite T-Cell Cable
Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.

  • 1) Black - Power to cell
  • 2) White - Power to cell
  • 3) Black - Power to cell
  • 4) White - Power to cell
  • 5) Brown - Not used
  • 6) Red - Goes to thermistor
  • 7) Orange - Not used
  • 8) Yellow - Not used
  • 9) Green - Not used
  • 10) Blue - Goes to thermistor.
The generic might use different wire colors. Verify with an ohmmeter. Connect the new thermistor to the old thermistor wires going to the box.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply