Check my numbers

[KDpoolguy]

Here’s the results for the new pool chemistry. I’m managing 2 pools presently and sharing my test kit between the 2, so it’s taken a few days to get them. Honestly, I expected the pool company (who last visited last Monday-6 days ago) to have actually managed this pool. #frustratedattheindustry.
I just bought a Taylor salt test kit and tested twice as I couldn’t believe my initial results. Same for my CYA, and the Chlorine. I’m really borderline livid, as I have never come across a pool managed previously by a pool service that I’ve taken over where the chemistry and/or pool equipment aren’t really in order. I digress...

FC: 0.5
CYA: 0 (Huh!? I couldn’t get a reading, the dot was visible all the way full)
Ph: 7.6 (OK)
TA: 80
Salt: 600-800 ppm (Huh?-This is supposed to be a Salt Water Pool!)
Calcium Hardness: 300 ppm
TDS: 600 ppm

This is my first salt pool. Deeply concered me initially was the SWCG panel was reading 300ppm, and though it’s off-it ain’t off by much! Could this level of the test (600-800ppm) damage the SWCG? I realize I need to inspect the cell now, so I’ll research that how-to shortly. The SWCG cell was installed in late 2016, and SWCG control panel is older.
- I turned off the SWCG today, and
- I’ve got 2 gallons of liquid chlorine on board to bring up the FC (poured in after test of 0.5].
- Poured in 2lbs of CYA Stabilizer, running pump all night and will re-test tomorrow.
- I bought 2 40lb. bags of salt, but need a consult before adding.

The previous owners did say they drained/refilled the pool 3-4 months ago, to repair the pebble and media blast. I’m surmising the pool tech never added enough salt? Guess it doesn’t matter.

 

[ajw22]

Low salt will not damage the SWG. It just shuts down and stops generating CL. Thats why your FC is 0. It should start up once you add salt.

Salt readings are +/-500 ppm. Dont get too hung up on accuracy of the SWG salt level display.

What brand salt did you get? Taking a 12000 gallon pool salt from 800 to 3000ppm will require around 220 lbs of salt. You need a few more bags.

 

[mknauss]

I bet they added no salt.

Low salt does not damage a SWCG. It should have been showing something that indicated low salt. The salinity read out on them is at best +/-400 ppm.

Get some CYA in it, use liquid chlorine. When you add salt, be sure to fully circulate. Remember it will sit on bottom unless disturbed. So switch to main drain and brush a bunch to mix. You can pull the cell off and look at it. Should be just unions. Do not acid wash it unless it is caked up really bad.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Thanks Marty and Allen. I only bought 2 bags as I was waiting for my test kit to arrive and really didn’t think it had so little salt in it. A couple updates—I did add 1 bag late last night and ran pump all night with (old) suction cleaner thrown in to help mix it up. Haven’t tested it yet, and will add other bag and buy some more salt. This afternoon the SWCG panel still says “Check Salt”, and “Generating” light still not lit.
I guess even one bag wouldn’t change it much. I’d brush the floor more but only brought my 8’ pole and can’t reach the deep end very well. My old Kreepy (held together with zip ties) seems to be making it’s rounds ok.
When I have some time this week I’ll remove the cell, but did find the new cell was installed in late 2018, not 2016, so it can’t be more than 6 months old so I’d hope it’s not in need of a acid bath yet.

 

[ajw22]

One 40lb bag of salt will raise your 12,000 gallon pool by 400ppm. You need to get your salt up around 2500 for your SWG to start generating b

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Please turn the SWG off when adding salt. A blast of undisolved salt going thru the system can mess up the SWG's "brain" a bit....... give the fella a break and turn it off until your salt is all in and dissolved and mixed in well.

Maddie

 

[KDpoolguy]

Good tip Maddie. I Still got the SWG off, and solely managing with liquid chlorine. Got CYA up to 50. It’s getting warm quick here, so Chlorine use will also increase. I keep running tests daily and am only adding one salt bag per day-for one my back is killing me and two, I feel I don’t want to over stimulate this pool and my old suction cleaner is moments away for the trash bin and is not making its way around the pool well enough to mix up the additives. I can’t wait to get a new robot. Also a problem soon to be resolved is I am not getting much of any main drain suction as there is no skimmer float. That gets delivered tomorrow.
Salt level is presently at 1600 with 2 bags in.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Do you all recommend taking pool water samples from different areas and depths of the pool for a more accurate salinity picture?
Now I’m also understanding how a speed stir should be helpful for the tests.

 

[ajw22]

Do you all recommend taking pool water samples from different areas and depths of the pool for a more accurate salinity picture?
Now I’m also understanding how a speed stir should be helpful for the tests.

Not necessary if your pump is running. Really only salinity you care about is what your SWG sees. So if you want to be picky take the sample by your skimmer.

 

[setsailsoon]

Kevin,

Wow, you've sure got a lot of irons in the fire! You've also already got several experts on your team to help you with every step so I won't duplicate their advice.

I recently switched to salt after 3+ years of liquid chlorine. I was a little surprised at the importance of a couple of things. Checking the salt before I started; I was amazed that there was so much! It was a little higher than your reading but validates Marty's conclusion that nobody added the salt. I would have added way too much salt if I hadn't tested first. The other detail was to pour the salt in the shallow end. Didn't realize how much easier this made it 'till I was sweeping the salt back and forth in the shallow end and glancing over to the deep end thinking "Now I know why this is important enough to be in the procedure!". I put all the salt in as quickly as I could and it left very small amounts at the bottom that disappeared with a little bit of brushing. After a couple of hours all the salt dissolved I tested for salt and it was spot on with Pool Math. A few days later I noticed a few very tiny little piles of what looked like sand. I think that was exactly what it was, impurities in the sand left for me to vacuum up.

Good luck and I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I always get my test water from an area I predict as being the lowest circulation=lowest chlorine. That way I have an idea of what the worst case scenario is for FC.

Maddie

 

[KDpoolguy]

Kevin, you've sure got a lot of irons in the fire! ....
Checking the salt before I started; I was amazed that there was so much! It was a little higher than your reading but validates Marty's conclusion that nobody added the salt. I would have added way too much salt if I hadn't tested first. The other detail was to pour the salt in the shallow end. Didn't realize how much easier this made it 'till I was sweeping the salt back and forth in the shallow end and glancing over to the deep end thinking "Now I know why this is important enough to be in the procedure!".

I agree wholeheartedly and this is very needed advise. I can’t tell you how many jobbies this pool is taking up, getting lots of Amazon packages with test kits, gaskets, o-rings and parts. It’s taking up a lot of time, and we still have a house to unpack.
I’m so appreciative of all your help! Things are falling into place from a chemical picture. The pools depth variance is a “V” shape, having 2 shallow entries at each long end and a pitching depth in the middle. The shallow ends are really sloping so pouring on the steps/shelves is a good option I presume since they eat up so much of the shallow areas. That’ll make it much easier, and I brought and cotter-pinned my 18’ pole to help with the sweeping. It really is a beautiful pool, just overwhelming until I tame her. I’ve added my 3rd bag o’ salt tonight slowly bringing up the level (tested at 1800 to 2000ppm. Who knew it’d take so much, right?
So, another issue. The SWCG panel (AquaRite) has an issue where the toggle switch (Off-Auto-Super Chlorinate) has lost its detents or knotches so it’s difficult to identify which switch it’s engaged in. I found this repair PC board;
Hayward AquaRite Display Board. $85.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Ok, as of yesterday I am making chlorine! Can ya tell I’m happy?! It took 6 bags. I really added it slowly and methodically, managing with liquid chlorine.
My SWG panel is calibrated and is now averaging 2900ppm, though 2 drop tests have it at 3400, but I’ll give it some more time to just start operating again and recalibrate. The instant panel reading isn’t making sense yet, though I though I saw it register at 3100.
I’ll keep the display board in my Amazon cart, but for now the panel seems to be operating well. I need to remove and inspect the cell too.