CE error Hayward 250 H series pool heater, natural gas

I might have 'em at work. I forget what values we have in stock. Could probably get a couple to you for a whole lot cheaper. If I have 331s though. would know Monday.

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Taylor1584 said:
Linda,

My husband thinks so, says the little circuits are inexpensive. R-15 was burnt on ours from March 2011, this year it was R-2, Paul said a different number. However finding someone todo this is our problem. We just moved to Sugarland, Texas last year, if we were still in Illinois I would know where to go. I wonder if Radio Shack would know? Anyone have any suggestions?

If you don't mind the drive to the Clear Lake area, there is a store called EPO that has all kinds of resistors, capacitors, and other stuff you don't find anywhere else these days. Call them first and ask if they have what you are looking for before you drive all the way out there. You may want to take the circuit board with you and see if they can repair it or not. Fry's electronics may also have some of those items if you want to check there.
 
If you don't mind the drive to the Clear Lake area, there is a store called EPO that has all kinds of resistors, capacitors, and other stuff you don't find anywhere else these days. Call them first and ask if they have what you are looking for before you drive all the way out there. You may want to take the circuit board with you and see if they can repair it or not. Fry's electronics may also have some of those items if you want to check there.
Don't think that would work since I'm in Pa.!
 
linda1 said:
Kias said:
Any chance you can measure that resistor in mm's? That'll tell me how much power it's rated for.
I can ask my husband to check it tomorrow.


Ok, I'm guessing it's 3.2mm X 1.6mm which would make it a 1/4 watt. ...and I lied, it's .05 cents on digikey. Sorry, I know it's over twice the price I originally stated. :mrgreen:
 
linda1 said:
I'd appreciate if you could check on Monday. I'm going to have my husband pull the other board and see if we need the R45. When we saw the burnt area on this board we didn't look any further.


Ok, I'll look on Monday. If I have 'em, I'll send ya a few with some other stuff that'll make removing it from the board really easy. 330 ohms is a common value, so odds are I have 'em.
 

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Just so you're aware, there's no guarantee that it'll work if you replace the burnt resistor. There was quite the surge to fry that resistor, so something else may have blown. Like that IC chip is mostly vulnerable. I can't make it out in the picture, but it's probably labeled U1. It's the big black thing with lots of legs.
 
Trying to repair these boards could be pointless. Just because you see one burned spot/resistor doesn't mean something else has been burned as well. Unless you can test all of the various components you might end up driving yourself crazy. Not to mention you could fix one resistor, plug the board in and it blows some other component like the ignighter. I wouldn't risk it.

As for them admitting to an issue, good luck. There are more issues in company products that are never admitted to because they don't want to deal with recalls and the money to fix it. Some of these Hayward systems I've worked on are under warranty so the homeowner doesn't pay out of pocket for repairs.

Lets just hope your blower motors don't go out on these units as you will really be hating that repair cost.
 
ps0303 said:
Trying to repair these boards could be pointless. Just because you see one burned spot/resistor doesn't mean something else has been burned as well. Unless you can test all of the various components you might end up driving yourself crazy. Not to mention you could fix one resistor, plug the board in and it blows some other component like the ignighter. I wouldn't risk it.

As for them admitting to an issue, good luck. There are more issues in company products that are never admitted to because they don't want to deal with recalls and the money to fix it. Some of these Hayward systems I've worked on are under warranty so the homeowner doesn't pay out of pocket for repairs.

Lets just hope your blower motors don't go out on these units as you will really be hating that repair cost.
You are probably right. I just thought it might be worth a few dollars to give it a try. I did buy a new board. Just wanted to play around with the bad one.

I'm just upset that this heater was just over a year old and only used about 6 hours max when it went out. I don't have a problem buying new boards if this would be the end of the problem. But it seems like it is a repeat problem for so many people and I can't afford to keep replacing these board. I should have spent the $1700 on a solar setup instead of this heater. End of vent!!
 
Rob,

Thanks for the info, I went to the website you suggested but have no idea what to look for. I will try to figure out how to post pictures of both boards that don't work anymore.

Chris
 
]Linda,

I think he was talking about me driving to Clear Lake, as I am in Richmond, Texas.

Chris

If you don't mind the drive to the Clear Lake area, there is a store called EPO that has all kinds of resistors, capacitors, and other stuff you don't find anywhere else these days. Call them first and ask if they have what you are looking for before you drive all the way out there. You may want to take the circuit board with you and see if they can repair it or not. Fry's electronics may also have some of those items if you want to check there.[/quote]
 
TFP Moderator,

I will contact that store in Clear Lake, it might be worth the drive just to see what can be repaired. I have the new board and have ordered the one Paul suggested so maybe the heater will work one of these days. I have almost spent between these 2 boards, and the other 2 that have failed, and the labor, almost as much at the heater costs in the first place. Are there any pool heater that are more reliable? What do you all recommend?

Chris
 
Taylor1584,

There is not one heater out there that is perfect. Personally I prefer ones with less moving parts such as a Rheem. Rheem does NOT have a blower motor and draft naturally. They also are much easier to repair as well. Your Hayward has a blower motor in it and if and when this goes out it's not cheap to fix.

So the next time you look at a purchase consider the repair costs and parts involved.
 
Has anyone learned why these boards blow out?
Have a 3 year old 250h, had CE errors after rain storms but cleared after dry weather.
However, now CE error will not reset. Any news?

Update: I removed both boards and brought them in the house for a few days.
Even though R15 and R45 have been over heated my unit works again after the boards dried out.
A suggestion was made to check the gasket around the control panel for leaks.
I have taped a piece of plastic over the control panel, see what happens on the next rain storm.

The surface mount resistors can be replaced with standard resistors if that's easier.
For example R15 can be replaced with a standard resistor on the back of the printed circuit board.
Not sure if this will bring the board back to life.

Hayward technical support does not have any information as to why these resistors are burning out.
However, if your unit is not too old it's a good idea to call them @ 908-355-7995 to see if they will help you out.

Thanks;

Bill
 
I have the same problem: r15 from display and r45 from control module are blown. I'm going to switch out the blown parts. Can someone tell me the resistor value on r45 from the control module??

I will repost to see if this fixes the problem without having to replace both boards.

After replacing both boards did the heater work??

Thank you for all your help,

Fred
 
call them @ 908-355-7995 and explain to them you have the same problem as a number of other customers on the internet.
Name the resistors etc. Be prepared to give them the name of your installer and they should send your installer a whole new set of boards.
I paid a small fee to have the new boards installed, also taped a plastic cover over the control panel to keep the rain out.
They do not seem to know what causes these controllers to go bad, but keeping the weather out may help.
Good luck.
 

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