It's the other way around. Chlorine is your sanitizer and the ozone is killing your chlorine. I'll bet if you pulled the plug on the ozone it would make your pool organism free just by the use of chlorine.
Cant keep TA up to proper level
- Thread starter AJB1234
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,814
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You really still need the same chlorine residual whether you use ozone or not. But ozone uses additional chlorine that then is no longer available for doing its primary job of keeping the pool sanitary.
There is no way "all" your water goes thru a residential UV system. In order for it to do this, you would need two water containment vessels. With one containmemt vessel (pool), the little bit of water going thru the UV system will be immediately mixed with the untreated pool water on its return to the pool.
I checked how low I could run the pump and still close the SWG flow switch on my system. I got as low as 900rpm before I basically gave up on trying to get a "no flow" indication - as I have minimum pumps speed set to 1200rpm (108 watts). Every pool is different - some here need to run at 1500rpm to close the flow switch.
The salt continues to build up when using liquid chlorine, tabs or granular forms of chlorine. Before my full drain a year ago, my salt level was 3600ppm - a little higher than I run it with my SWG.
There is no way "all" your water goes thru a residential UV system. In order for it to do this, you would need two water containment vessels. With one containmemt vessel (pool), the little bit of water going thru the UV system will be immediately mixed with the untreated pool water on its return to the pool.
I checked how low I could run the pump and still close the SWG flow switch on my system. I got as low as 900rpm before I basically gave up on trying to get a "no flow" indication - as I have minimum pumps speed set to 1200rpm (108 watts). Every pool is different - some here need to run at 1500rpm to close the flow switch.
The salt continues to build up when using liquid chlorine, tabs or granular forms of chlorine. Before my full drain a year ago, my salt level was 3600ppm - a little higher than I run it with my SWG.
I read some people needed speeds of 1700 to satisfy the flow switch. I'm definitely becoming more interested in salt over chlorine. Appreciate the help. Is salt really that much more corrosive of the equipment? I guess I could just search for this one on TFP but you seem so knowledgeable. Thank you.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,814
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Every pool is different and the speed needed to satisfy the flow switch is also different.
No, its not more corrosive - unless you are using actual ocean water in the pool. But that is about 10x more concentrated with salt than a typical SWG pool. Ocean water is 35,000ppm - typical SWG pool ks 3,000-3,500 in tbe US.
And remember, EVERY chlorine dosed pool is a salt pool.
If salt was a corrosive issue, there would be 1000s and 1000s of posts right here at TFP about it.
I thought the uv uses up chlorine not ozone, interesting.
Agree that not 100% of water is treated with the ozone and uv systems, I think that's why they want them run 24/7 (against TFP recommendations)
Good to know about your flow switch on low RPMs. I wonder if there is a way to know before installation what the lowest rpm will be to generate salt? I don't want to run my pumps at a higher speed than necessary ($ and noise).
Are you saying that salt builds up more with LC than with a swg? If so, that is counterintuitive and definitely helps sway my decision to change to swg.
You've been a big help and thank you.
The noise and $ issue for the pump will be different for everyone since no plumbing setup is the same, but I can tell you the variable speed pump I have now is almost silent from 15 feet away running at 2200rpm. I can’t even tell it’s on unless I walk over there. So I think any RPM starting with a 1 will be good enough to keep neighbors and family happy.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,814
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Salt only leaves the pool thru splashout or draining. Its considered a solid just like calcium and CYA and continues to build up over time. With a SWG, you add salt to get to your desired level. You aren't continuously adding more via additions of liquid or granular chlorine (fill water can contain a little salt - but that would be added in any case).
Based on how long since the last drain, salt can get well over that required by a SWG when using liquid or granular types of chlorine.
Based on how long since the last drain, salt can get well over that required by a SWG when using liquid or granular types of chlorine.
Our pool pump is directly up against our house because my lot is small. I've ran it at around 2200 and it's definitely much louder than 1200 it's set at now. Also, I'm paying .39 per kW since I'm in a higher tier with the electric company. I could run the pump higher without the sound being an issue but if I have to, I would likely rather stay with LC. Thanks for your help.
Thanks. Learning a lot here. When it rains we sometimes have our neg edge basin overflow and it gets pool water in the plants. Is swg pool water more likely to kill plants than LC?
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,814
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Probably not - well, a LOT of salt could cause issues, but not so much from pool water.
And remember, your pool water salt content could actually be higher than what a SWG requires when you use liquid or granular chlorine.
If the basin is susceptible to overflowing from rain, it should have had an overflow drain installed to route the water to an acceptible location instead of just overflowing the rim.
And remember, your pool water salt content could actually be higher than what a SWG requires when you use liquid or granular chlorine.
If the basin is susceptible to overflowing from rain, it should have had an overflow drain installed to route the water to an acceptible location instead of just overflowing the rim.
Good information thank you. I'm actually in discussion with the PB about not having an overflow drain. He thinks it's there but may have been covered up with concrete or the basin equalizing pipe cover (we have a basin on the front and back of the pool so this pipe keeps the water at equal levels in both). I have tons of pictures of all the plumbing before the concrete so hopefully he's correct. Thank you!
- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
A "salt" pool is a chlorine pool. It just uses a SWG and the dissolved salt in the water to generate chlorine.
A "chlorine" pool also has dissolved salt in the water, sometimes at higher levels than you may think.
No. Remember, all pools have salt to some extent.
No, same concept as above.
Depends on the pool, and each setup is unique. I have an efficient system that works well at 1,000 rpm. That's enough to operate my SWG, skim, circulate, and filter. I run my pump 24/7 and it consumes ~75 watts. This equates to ~$6/month in electricity to operate nonstop.
Thanks for all the feedback. Is there any way to know before installation what pump speed will be required to turn on the swg? Appreciate it.
That was my point, you can run it at 1200rpm with either liquid chlorine or a SWG, it doesn’t matter.
Unknown per your plumbing setup 1200 can be hit or miss but the point is lower rpm will still produce chlorine.
Thanks. I would be disappointed if I switched to SWG and then was unable to get the flow switch to operate the SWG unless at a higher speed. I think I'm still a little confused about this one. Does the SWG require a certain flow rate to operate?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,705
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes. Most state 25 gpm. Though that can vary.
As you use Chemical Automation, I would warn you that a SWCG may not work with that as well as your current system. If your current chemical automation with liquid chlorine is working, I would recommend staying with that, if that is how you wish to chlorinate your pool.
Eventually, when the chemical automation gives you issues, then consider a SWCG.
25 GPM is perfect. That's what mine is at with my preferred pump speed.
I'll likely take up your suggestion and wait before the chemical automation stops working before making any changes. Happy with it just like the convenience of salt. Thank you!
I'll likely take up your suggestion and wait before the chemical automation stops working before making any changes. Happy with it just like the convenience of salt. Thank you!