Can’t get pool blue new filters needed?

[dielseman]

Hi there,

Having some trouble getting my pool blue. I run the filter every day for 4-6 hours and maintain the chemicals. I’m using the Taylor kit and tested all my chemicals.

Living in Georgia, we have been receiving a lot of pollen. Does that attribute to this somewhat murky color?

Also, the PSIs are 20 for the filter. Was thinking a new filter might be needed.

Do I need to run the filter longer?

What do you think?

 

[Jimrahbe]

D-man,

You have been a member since 2017 so you should know the drill by now...

Please post the following numbers

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA.

While it is possible that you have a filter issue, it is almost a sure bet you have an algae bloom..

Have you run an OCLT yet? Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If not, that would be the very first step that I would do..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cfherrman]

What kind of filter?

 

[dielseman]

I probably need to do that as I have noticed about 2 ppms in chlorine lowered each time I test the following day. I just presumed that was due to the high amount of pollen. I will post these when I can. Did not have that with me at the time.

On a side note, do I need to run the filter longer and possibly buy a new filter? It is several years old and I have already cleaned it rigorously a few times. Best I can get it down to is 10-15, then it rises pretty quickly.

 

[dielseman]

What kind of filter?

I have a Jandy pump. How often do the filters need to be replaced? The strings that wrap around the filter are pretty much ripped. I can get it cleaned well, but it only lasts a little while. I mentioned in my previous post that I can get it down to 10-15 psis, then it rises to 20 within a few filters.

 

[Teald024]

A 2ppm loss of FC each day is normal. But, you may be on the verge of an algae bloom. Although the filter may look a bit dirty, they are probably fine if you can’t then white again.
Pollen tends to float and can increase FC consumption, but it’s likely you have non-filter issues. More likely the start of algae due to low FC for your CYA.
Please post a full set of test results and the method of getting them.

 

[dielseman]

Will post them once I can. To combat and algae bloom, would need to start the slam process, right?

 

[Teald024]

To combat an algae bloom, would need to start the slam process, right?

Correct. You need to perform the SLAM Process process to combat algae. You also need to know your CYA level and test using the FAS/DPD chlorine test.

 

[dielseman]

FC 2
PH 7
TA 90
CH 200
CYA 60 (May be a little off. Ran out of cya)

 

[duraleigh]

Start your SLAM as soon as you can. Bring the FC to around 24 ppm and KEEP IT THERE until your pool is clear. You must run the pump 24/7 during the SLAM and keep the filter cleaned as necessary.

 

[dielseman]

Thanks! Do I need to drain waiter or raise ph before starting the slam? Or is the most important thing going to be adding liquid chlorine and running the filter? Also, just making sure that if I raise this to 24 PPM I should add all the bleach at one time? Approximately 225 ounces.

 

[Teald024]

Your pH is Ok for now. Only reason to drain would be the CYA. At 60ppm, it is higher than desired for the SLAM, but not undoable. Most important thing is to keep FC at SLAM level based on your CYA. Effectively, the only downside is the extra use of the testing reagents used while testing. It’s your call if you want to put up with the consequences of higher CYA. SLAM process will work either way.

Yes, dump in all the chlorine at once to reach 24ppm.

 

[dielseman]

Thanks! Part of the slam process is vacuuming. Does that also mean using a auto robot?

 

[Texas Splash]

Does that also mean using a auto robot?

A robot is fine to use, but in some cases there's nothing as good as elbow grease. Being able to give that extra brushing, scrubbing, etc to certain areas a robot may not quite get. Happy SLAMing!

 

[dielseman]

Thanks! Lastly, on here it is recommended to pour the chlorine slowly above a intake valve. I’ve seen some videos where they pour around the perimeter of the pool. What’s the best way?

 

[Texas Splash]

We recommend pouring slowly at those return jets coming back into the pool. That way the bleach is quickly taken away and dispersed. Some smaller pools with limited return jet force may still need a quick brushing to help get the chlorine moving around.

 

[dielseman]

Thanks again to everyone who replied here. Great suggestions to get my pool in much better shape. Waiting for the CYA to arrive any day now.

Anyways, as temperatures have started to increase, I have been adding 2-3x more liquid chlorine from before. Is this normal due to the hotter temperatures and higher amount of burn off? Or is it likely that my CYA is too low and I need to increase it?

Thanks,

 

[Texas Splash]

Anyways, as temperatures have started to increase, I have been adding 2-3x more liquid chlorine from before. Is this normal due to the hotter temperatures and higher amount of burn off? Or is it likely that my CYA is too low and I need to increase it?

Could be either really. Did you ever finish the SLAM? Pass all 3 items? If you did, then it may be time to iccrease the CYA a bit as the sun gets more vertical and hotter. The FC will need more protection. However if you didn't complete the SLAM, it could be algae still eating the chlorine. Just be sure. General rule of thumb, we don't like to see a loss of more than 4ppm of FC in a 24 hours period. If you lose more than 4 ppm, it's either lack of CYA protection or algae.

 

[splashpad]

How often do the filters need to be replaced? The strings that wrap around the filter are pretty much ripped. I can get it cleaned well, but it only lasts a little while. I mentioned in my previous post that I can get it down to 10-15 psis, then it rises to 20 within a few filters.

What filter has strings? Just curious Can you share a picture of what you are talking about?

 

[Teald024]

What filter has strings? Just curious Can you share a picture of what you are talking about?

@dielseman has a cartridge filter. The strings/bands are the orange things in the pic below. They hold the pleats in the appropriate location.