I just started 4 hrs ago. Water was pretty clear already when I started
Cannot get a Chlorine reading
- Thread starter bfisher77
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK --- just let things settle for today. You can test this evening or in the morning.
No more going way past SLAM FC level. Your liner will not like it.
No more going way past SLAM FC level. Your liner will not like it.
I can imagine. I used the Pool math app calculator and put in what it said.
Need to figure out where the discrepancy came from before adding your next dose.I can imagine. I used the Pool math app calculator and put in what it said.
What did you enter into Poolmath? How many gallons of LC did you put into the pool?
26K gallon pool should take about 7 gallons of LC to go from 0 to 28ppm. To get 54ppm you would have put in double that.
Also what exact steps did you use to test?
10ml sample size with 1 scoop? How many drops of R-0817? Divide drops by 2 to get ppm(assuming 10ml sample)?
Last night at 10, the FC was 39ppm, and I just tested again now, at 8:30 AM and it didn’t change, still 39.I can imagine. I used the Pool math app calculator and put in what it said.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your data is not adding up. I would check all the data you have entered into Poolmath, your testing procedure, etc.
How confident are you in your pool volume? What are the dimensions, shape, and depths?
This isn't enough to make it off that far, but are you using 10% or 12.5% LC? Your notes show 10, but your effects of adding show 12.5.
This isn't enough to make it off that far, but are you using 10% or 12.5% LC? Your notes show 10, but your effects of adding show 12.5.
When I initially tested for Chlorine, the sample didn’t turn pink when I added the R-0870 powder, so I assumed that meant the Chlorine level was 0??? So, because it never turned pink, I assumed that meant that the FC was 0 as well, because it was clear? Then, I did the CC test, and after adding the 5 drops of R-0003, the sample turned pink. I then had to add 6 drops of R-0871 to get the sample back to clear, resulting in a CC level of 3??? And a TC of 3.
Should I do a test again for CC?
I used the 10% 5 days before the SLAM, then switched to 12.5% strength for the SLAM because it was more economical.
I wonder if the volume of my pool has changed? I had the liner replaced last year, and it was a nightmare of a process that began the prior Summer
. Maybe the depth dimensions changed when they releveled the sand for the new liner? But would it change the volume that much? The pool is 18x36.That wouldn't change it that much if at all. It's rectangle? Depths from 4-6.5ft get my calculation near 25K gallons. Just trying to find anything that could make that much difference.
Are you adding drops slowly, about 1 per second. Letting it fully form before dropping and not forcing them out too quick?
Are you adding drops slowly, about 1 per second. Letting it fully form before dropping and not forcing them out too quick?
Just not sure what to do next. Wait how long and rest FC again? Test the CC again? Do a full battery of tests again? Thanks for all of your help!
Maybe @mknauss s or @Newdude have an idea on what would have caused the high FC.
When FC is back down, see what your next addition should add and test a half hour after adding to see where it is and see if they match.
I would just keep doing the slam steps: brushing/vacuuming and testing regularly. You show no loss overnight so you might be near complete. How does the water look? Still have CC?
IF you pass all 3 exit conditions, you can call it complete:
Going forward you want to be in the target range when you test meaning you may need to dose above so you are still in range the next day when you test. Example with 70 cya: Target 9, with daily loss of 2 or 3 and maybe 1 or 2 for insurance you can dose to around 12-13FC.
When FC is back down, see what your next addition should add and test a half hour after adding to see where it is and see if they match.
I would just keep doing the slam steps: brushing/vacuuming and testing regularly. You show no loss overnight so you might be near complete. How does the water look? Still have CC?
IF you pass all 3 exit conditions, you can call it complete:
- CC is 0.5 or lower
- AND your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less
- AND pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls
Going forward you want to be in the target range when you test meaning you may need to dose above so you are still in range the next day when you test. Example with 70 cya: Target 9, with daily loss of 2 or 3 and maybe 1 or 2 for insurance you can dose to around 12-13FC.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If the amount of liquid chlorine added is correct, then there was testing error. Likely when getting the 0 FC reading prior to adding. The FC level must have been much higher.
Also, if you have the same login email/pass for TFP and Poolmath, in the Poolmath options you can link your data to your TFP profile and we can see all your history instead of you having to specifically post it.