Can Pentair Intellichlor IC20 fail with no obvious indicators other than low chlorine level?

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A

AJFrank

Member
Jan 30, 2020
9
Vancouver, WA
My Intellichlor does not appear to be making chlorine. I have done all of the troubleshooting I can find and there are no obvious signs of any problem - power is fine, pump is fine, flow is same as always, salt level is appropriate (intellichlor & aquachek strip are the same level apart as they always are), all the lights are green, water temp is fine. I took it apart and checked for scale or any other internal problems or blade issues and found none. The unit is more than 5 years old (I don't know its actual age as we bought the house 5 years ago and it was already in place) and when I do the "life remaining" test all 5 lights come on; it is not unrealistic to think it is at end of life. Is it possible it thinks it is working and therefore not showing any red light indicators but it is not making chlorine? I would appreciate any opinions or info on similar experiences. Thanks. Update 8/19/20 - it appears it was indeed the test strips I was using. I switched to the TF100 test kit and confirmed there is chlorine. Thanks to all those who responded - I did learn a lot about the whole situation as pool ownership is still fairly new to me - looking for bubbles as an indicator, that my IC is too small and ended up with a solid, reliable test kit.
 
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That would be unusual. Are there bubbles coming out of the return when the SWCG is generating according to the lights on the unit?

Do you have full set of test results?
 
mknauss said:
That would be unusual. Are there bubbles coming out of the return when the SWCG is generating according to the lights on the unit?

Do you have full set of test results?
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Thank you for your response. Yes, there are bubbles at the appropriate time. I have test results based on strips (I have a TF100 on order but don't have it yet). TH100, FC0, pH6.8, TA120 and CYA0 (this is strange as I put a whole jug of stabilizer in last night). Salt is 3900. Your question about the bubbles got me thinking last night as it appears it is working. Since last summer I put in a Pentair Intelliflo VSF pump. I run it at 2000 rpm for 8 hour during prime swimming time and 16 hours at 1400 which is the minimum I can run it to get my SWG green. My previous pump was a Hayward Superpump so it just ran full blast all the time. I was under the impression that as long as the SWG was green it was making chlorine and the flow amount didn't matter in regards to volume of chlorine. Am I wrong? Should I run it faster longer? I am using a solar cover to heat it so lots of sun. I just used the SWG worksheet I found on this site and it appears that 16 hours should be sufficient for my pool. Last night I dumped a bunch of stabilizer in and ran it overnight at the 2000 volume. This morning the test results were still 0 FC and 0 CYA. Now I am also thinking maybe it is the strips and I should just wait and revisit once I get the more reliable test kit. The pool is crystal clear and no issues (no kids swim in it).
 
AJ,

As long at the flow light is green, running faster will not generate any more chlorine..

With zero CYA, any chlorine that your SWCG makes will be gone in a few hours.. That said, I would not trust the strips and I would not add any more CYA until you have a better handle on what is already in your pool.

What size is your cell?? I assume an IC40, which is on the small side for your pool...

With an IC40, in a 28K pool, running at 100% output for 24 hours will only produce 6 ppm of FC.. That is .25 ppm per hour at 100% So max 8 hours will only give you 2 ppm.. If you run less than 100% it will even less FC.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
If you know how, you can check the amps being used at the AC supply or the DC output. The power should be around 150 to 200 watts (volt x amps).

It's an IC20, which will only live half the time of an IC40.

There should be a sticker on the back of the cell with a manufacturing date. What does that show?
 
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Jimrahbe said:
AJ,

As long at the flow light is green, running faster will not generate any more chlorine..

With zero CYA, any chlorine that your SWCG makes will be gone in a few hours.. That said, I would not trust the strips and I would not add any more CYA until you have a better handle on what is already in your pool.

What size is your cell?? I assume an IC40, which is on the small side for your pool...

With an IC40, in a 28K pool, running at 100% output for 24 hours will only produce 6 ppm of FC.. That is .25 ppm per hour at 100% So max 8 hours will only give you 2 ppm.. If you run less than 100% it will even less FC.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Yep, it is only a 20 which is small. I do run it at 100% output and the pump 24 hours a day. I will post test results from the kit once I get it. Thanks.
 
Jimrahbe said:
I just read the title again.. You have an IC20 in a 28K pool??? I am amazed it lasted 5 years... I know you are in Washington state, but even so...
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AJFrank said:
Not sure if the wink is good or bad. I like the cover until there is a problem with it and then the support is an absolute zero.
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The note was for Jim to explain why the cell can last so long.

Normal cell life is 5 to 7 years, but with a cover that stays on most of the time, the cell should not have to work so hard and it can last a lot longer.

If the cell light is green and the Easytouch says no errors, the cell is likely working.
AJFrank said:
I do run it at 100% output and the pump 24 hours a day.
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That seems like a lot of production time with the cover on.
 
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