I have a chlorine pool and I think I'm seeing the first signs of pink slime. Very small area in the shallow end. I'm a bit confused, though, because it's in a sunny area and I read pink slime likes shade. Also, my pool is always chlorinated, but I'll admit, 2 times this summer I accidentally let the chlorine get to 0. However, I caught it pretty quick, within a day or two, and shocked the pool. All the other chemicals are always in line, water is crystal clear, etc. We have an automatic cover, so the pool gets closed at night. I run my filter probably more than most. It is definitely light pink and slimy to the touch, though. Is super shocking it along with scrubbing and vacuuming the way to get rid of this? One other thing... I use the test strips and it says my stabilizer is around 100. It also says on the strip that it's in the "ok" range. I use stabilized chlorine tabs, so the level of stabilizer is hard to control...
Can my Chlorine pool have Pink Algae?
- Thread starter ConnieStrnat
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:
Test Strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them.
Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.
'Shocking' does not eliminate the issue. You need to SLAM Process. That takes a proper test kit.
Start to determine if draining your pool water to reduce your CYA is possible and what it will take to do that.
I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.
You may also want to get the Pool Math app.
Test Strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them.
Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.
'Shocking' does not eliminate the issue. You need to SLAM Process. That takes a proper test kit.
Start to determine if draining your pool water to reduce your CYA is possible and what it will take to do that.
I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.
You may also want to get the Pool Math app.
Thank you! I will start the SLAM tomorrow. There's very little pink in the pool but I don't want it to get out of hand. Is the water safe to swim in? I understand it's not algae, but bacterial...
Hello, welcome to TFP!
I'm afraid you can't SLAM with test strips. Aside of the unreliability of test strips they almost always bleach out at SLAM level, rendering them unreadable. You really do need a proper test kit to even start it.
I would not consider a pool with pink slime safe. If the chlorine isn't able to kill that then it probably isn't capable of killing other less benign bacteria.
I'm afraid you can't SLAM with test strips. Aside of the unreliability of test strips they almost always bleach out at SLAM level, rendering them unreadable. You really do need a proper test kit to even start it.
I would not consider a pool with pink slime safe. If the chlorine isn't able to kill that then it probably isn't capable of killing other less benign bacteria.
Pink goo to nurses makes us think of Pseudomonas .... whether that's whats in there or not, I would *not* swim in that. I'd hate to have a horrible eye infection develop.
Have you considered obtaining a reliable test kit? Either the TF-100 or the K-2006C are the only ones we trust. Both available thru tftestkits.net I prefer the TF-100, which runs $70ish but will *save you a ton* in the end.
Maddie
Have you considered obtaining a reliable test kit? Either the TF-100 or the K-2006C are the only ones we trust. Both available thru tftestkits.net I prefer the TF-100, which runs $70ish but will *save you a ton* in the end.
Maddie
Welcome to the forum!
Pink slime is a bacteria, which means the sanitizer is too low to kill bacteria.
Algae is just a nuisance, it’s only a green plant. What you have is a bacteria growth and it needs to be handled properly.
Pink slime is a bacteria, which means the sanitizer is too low to kill bacteria.
Algae is just a nuisance, it’s only a green plant. What you have is a bacteria growth and it needs to be handled properly.
I know I can't SLAM with test strips, and I will get a reliable test kit. In the meantime, I'll take a sample to my pool supplier and have them test everything (they do a very complete and comprehensive test) so I can get started. Thank you all for your help! Wish me luck... nothing like having a crystal clear pool and 90+ degree weather and not being able to swim in it, lol.
Dom, how can my sanitizer be too low? I keep my chlorine level between 3 and 4 all the time, except for the time I let it fall to zero. It was really rainy, had to pump the cover off to open it. I immediately shocked it and the water is crystal clear. FC is at 5 today. Can letting the chlorine fall one time for a maximum of 2 days be enough for that bacteria to develop?
Because the required FC level is a function of your CYA level as shown in the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. 3 to 5 PPM of FC may not be nearly high enough if you have very high CYA to keep the pool clear and safe.
If your CYA is 100, your absolute minimum FC is 8ppm. Telling me your FC is at 3-4ppm is meaningless without a good CYA level.
Regardless of how it got started, if it is still there, your sanitizer levels are not high enough to kill it. As it reproduces it will overcome the FC much quicker.
Ah, so if my CYA is as high as I suspect (the strip says 100, but I realize those aren't always accurate), that makes sense. Also, according to the FC/CYA chart, I would have to get the chlorine up to 39! I guess that means I should drain and replace some water before I start..
Thanks for the explanation!
Thanks for the explanation!
You're right, those strip tests (guess-strips, we call'em) are pretty worthless. But since you did get 100, lets do the test again with half pool water and half tap water.
Mix that up and do the test again but double the results. It *might* show you that you're far over 100, even knowing the test strip is questioned.
It might help you see how much water needs to be drained.
Maddie
Mix that up and do the test again but double the results. It *might* show you that you're far over 100, even knowing the test strip is questioned.
It might help you see how much water needs to be drained.
Maddie
Thanks, Marty... just downloaded the Pool Math app. Good to know info about the test kits too!
Scrubbed and vacuumed my pool... alkalinity was 121, so emptied about a third of the water, and refilling now (almost there!) Started recirculating so I can test the alkalinity again (got my K2006-C) and see if I brought it down. If that's good, I'm ready to start the SLAM. One question... Do I need to pull out the light and clean behind it? It was suggested to me that there may be a ball of slime back there. There was some around the outside rim, which I cleaned off, and I want to make sure I get it all, but don't want to have to take the light out if it's not necessary!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
TA has no effect on your pool water chemistry for a SLAM. There was no reason to drain any water based on that.
How do you measure a TA of 121ppm?
You should remove your light and leave it out during the SLAM.
How do you measure a TA of 121ppm?
You should remove your light and leave it out during the SLAM.
Agreed, the SLAM procedure mentions nothing about adjusting TA.
Did you lower your pH to 7.2?
Did you lower your pH to 7.2?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK -- again, a CYA of 121 is not possible to measure.
If you only drained and refilled 1/3 of your water, I would suggest being prepared to do it again.
They tested it at my pool supply store along with everything else, gave me a print out, and told me my CYA is 121. I don't understand what you're saying about a CYA of 121 not being possible to measure... I've seen people state on this forum higher CYA numbers than that. Are you saying it will only measure up to a certain point? Confused.
The CYA measuring tube, is in whole numbers. Like 40, 50, 60.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh oh. Pool $tore testing is almost as bad as the guess strips. You really need to get your own test kit and take this bull by the horns.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh oh. Pool $tore testing is almost as bad as the guess strips. You really need to get your own test kit and take this bull by the horns.