Can I make this swimmable tomorrow?

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S

socra

0
Sep 5, 2017
40
Fort wayne, IN
Pool Size
17890
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
The test shown in attached was at about 5pm earlier this evening. The chlorine is off the charts orange and the PH is very dark purple. Is it safe to swim in the pool at this Cl and Ph level? If not is there a way I can make it swimmable by tomorrow evening? I have the heater running tonight with the Jandy Aquapure set to 0%.
 

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What is your CYA?

Do you have a test kit with the FAS/DPD chlorine test to get an accurate FC level?

Your pH probably is not that high. The pH test is not valid when the FC is over 10 ppm.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I haven't done that full test for cya, and free chlorine. That's my own fault. I bought a tf100 test kit, but have only used this CL and PH test (again, my own fault). I think the tf100 had the fas/dpd. I will do them in the morning.
 
Breakout the TF100 and post a complete series of tests and we will see where you are.

See the FC/CYA Levels. It is safe to swim with FC up to SLAM level for your CYA.

So accurate FC and CYA tests are important.
 
I performed the FC test 2x, and put in 57 drops 1x and 54 drops the second time. That puts me around 27-28.5 ppm FC.
I performed CYA test 2x, and the water stayed basically 100% clear, so even with a full vial I could see the black dot. I think that means there is "0" CYA?
I performed the alkalinity test, and put in 20 drops. So that puts my water at 200 TA.
 
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FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature

Be aware, the pH test is not valid with FC over 10.

Based on the results you posted, you probably will not be swimming today.
 
I assume you have not added stablizer/CYA since opening the pool and your high FC is due to the SWG.

That FC level with no CYA is too high to swim in the pool. Your FC should drop by a few PPM every day.

If you can get 70 ppm of CYA into the water then it would be safe to swim at up to 28 PPM of FC.

I don't think you can get solid stabilizer dissolved in a day. You may be able to get liquid stabilizer into the pool although I don't know how long it will take to spread in the pool.
 
  • FC = 28 ppm
  • CC = 0 ppm
  • pH = > 8.2 (from the taylor test kit)
  • TA = 200
  • CH = ______ (will test in a little bit)
  • CYA = 0 (i think)
  • Salinity = 3700 ppm
  • Water temperature = 80 degree F
 
This liquid conditioner is a 128oz bottle. This calculator is showing I need to add 433 oz of liquid stabilizer to get to 70, or 3.4 bottles. Am I reading this correctly?

Natural Chemistry Instant Water Conditioner 1 Gallon | Leslie's Pool Supplies

Start protecting your chlorine instantly with Natural Chemistry Instant Pool Water Conditioner, quickly and easily stabilizing chlorine from UV sunlight loss.
lesliespool.com lesliespool.com
1652194068953.png
 

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socra said:
This liquid conditioner is a 128oz bottle. This calculator is showing I need to add 433 oz of liquid stabilizer to get to 70, or 3.4 bottles. Am I reading this correctly?

Natural Chemistry Instant Water Conditioner 1 Gallon | Leslie's Pool Supplies

Start protecting your chlorine instantly with Natural Chemistry Instant Pool Water Conditioner, quickly and easily stabilizing chlorine from UV sunlight loss.
lesliespool.com lesliespool.com
Click to expand...

Yes, although the calculations are approximations and I would normally recommend adding 2/3 of the calculation and see what you get and then top it off slowly.

If you overshoot the CYA level, and 70 is about the highest you want, then you will need to drain water to lower it.

Also shake up the bottle well and get any stuff that has hardened out of the bottom. We usually recommend using liquid conditioner due to its cost.
 
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ajw22 said:
Yes, although the calculations are approximations and I would normally recommend adding 2/3 of the calculation and see what you get and then top it off slowly.

If you overshoot the CYA level, and 70 is about the highest you want, then you will need to drain water to lower it.

Also shake up the bottle well and get any stuff that has hardened out of the bottom. We usually recommend using liquid conditioner due to its cost.
Click to expand...
Okay, so I can go buy some conditioner and dump it in. Do you know how long I should wait for that amount to get mixed in?
Looking at the chart if I get to ~70 CYA, the FC max is 5 ppm. How do I get from my current 27/28 ppm FC down to a 5 ppm?
*edit: I think i partially answered my question. There's something called Sodium Thiosulfate that lowers FC. Is that what this is (https://lesliespool.com/leslies-chlor-neutralizer/7c3ed4ae-9da4-46f1-acb6-d2e4ddf3259c.html)? I don't see where it says at what rate it lowers FC level.
 
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socra said:
Okay, so I can go buy some conditioner and dump it in. Do you know how long I should wait for that amount to get mixed in?
Looking at the chart if I get to ~70 CYA, the FC max is 5 ppm. How do I get from my current 27/28 ppm FC down to a 5 ppm?
*edit: I think i partially answered my question. There's something called Sodium Thiosulfate that lowers FC. Is that what this is (https://lesliespool.com/leslies-chlor-neutralizer/7c3ed4ae-9da4-46f1-acb6-d2e4ddf3259c.html)? I don't see where it says at what rate it lowers FC level.
Click to expand...

Unless you want to throw money at it, time and patience.
If you choose the later, save even more $$$$ by adding dry stabilizer/conditioner using the sock method instead of using liquid stabilizer.

Leslies shows $42.99 per gallon of liquid stabilizer on their website. That's over $170 for four gallons of liquid gold conditioner.

Once the FC is under 10, you will need to test and adjust the pH as needed.
 
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Sounds like your main goal is to get it swimmable - if that's true and cost is not a real issue, than liquid stabilizer is your best bet to get your CYA/FC ratio in check. I wouldn't do anything drastic to get your FC down - that will drift down on its own. Make sure you're not adding any chlorine/you have shut off your SWCG for now!

It's safe to swim up to SLAM level of FC - so if you aim for 60 CYA ( you never want to overshoot!), SLAM level is 24. I would suspect that if you do not add any more chlorine between now and then - you'd be at or below 24 tomorrow.

If you're pretty sure you're at 0 CYA now, I would add three full gallons of liquid stabilizer, and check where you're at late this evening/early tomorrow. Make sure to FULLY dump the entire bottle and rinse well in the pool!
 
PieterS said:
Sounds like your main goal is to get it swimmable - if that's true and cost is not a real issue, than liquid stabilizer is your best bet to get your CYA/FC ratio in check. I wouldn't do anything drastic to get your FC down - that will drift down on its own. Make sure you're not adding any chlorine/you have shut off your SWCG for now!

It's safe to swim up to SLAM level of FC - so if you aim for 60 CYA ( you never want to overshoot!), SLAM level is 24. I would suspect that if you do not add any more chlorine between now and then - you'd be at or below 24 tomorrow.

If you're pretty sure you're at 0 CYA now, I would add three full gallons of liquid stabilizer, and check where you're at late this evening/early tomorrow. Make sure to FULLY dump the entire bottle and rinse well in the pool!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reminder all, I did set the SWG to 0% yesterday afternoon. My mistake is that I didn't understand or pay attention to pump run time and the SWG setting. I need to spend some time & figure out how to program my pump timer. The PB just left it programmed to run 24/7, but at a low RPM and the SWG was still set at 60%.
Until I figured out how messed up my water is, we were hoping to get the kids in the pool tonight but now it's not looking like it. So, i would say i'm shooting for Friday evening if possible or Saturday afternoon. We have other plans tomorrow evening, so if I can't make it safe by tonight, then there's no rush.
Pool math shows i need 143oz (8lbs 15oz) of granular stabilizer to get to 60 CYA (much more affordable than > 3 gallons of liquid). I'll pick that up tonight, supposedly in-stock near me, so i can get that in the water to start dissolving.
My pool installer recommended to add 1/2 gal of muriatic acid now, to bring the alkalinity & ph down. Do you all think I should do that, or wait to get the CYA up and the FC down a little?
 
socra said:
My pool installer recommended to add 1/2 gal of muriatic acid now, to bring the alkalinity & ph down. Do you all think I should do that, or wait to get the CYA up and the FC down a little?
Click to expand...

Please don't add thiosulfate, you FC will come down. If you get the CYA in, it will be safe to swim.

Please don't add muriatic. Your pH might be just fine and adding muratic may crash your pH.

Best course of action is get the CYA in the pool.
 

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